Jimmy Two-Jacks

I actualy tried a corned beef tin key and it worked for both doors but not the back door. So it is more difficult to get into a tin of corned beef with the proper key than get into my 90 with a corned beef tin key!

Will do thanks.

Hi, finally something I can give advice on!!! I used to be in museum conservation and we used to prepare our own wax dressings and found that if you add a little grated carnauba (about 5% by volume) to you basic wax and turpentine/white spirrit will do mix this gave a very hard finish that was durable and could be left matt or would buff to a brilliant polish however if left to the elements will give a dull but tough surface coat if you get the mixture right. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carnauba_wax http://www.poth-hille.co.uk/orders-quotes Cheers James

It may sound daft but have you re-fitted the rear prop shaft? If so it could be out of phase that could cause the shakes between certain speeds of rotation. Just a thought

Today I called a very well known parts factor that deals specifically in Land Rover spares to enquire if they stocked an internal door release (the bit you pull to get out of the vehicle) as I managed to break mine off it just came off in me hand honest. After a while I was told that it would be easier to replace the doors! I was rather shocked as I like the doors on my D reg 90 with the lift up external handles and dents and scratches after all its just the handle bit thats gone up the fritz. I posted regarding the handle situation last week and someone told me that RR classic interior handles will fit. I have tried the standard course of action to all part queries for those without the resources of a small country and searched ebay but non were found that looked right even though they may have done the job the problem is I just dont know if they would or not. So does anyone know of anyone that stocks the flippy bit that gets you out of the cab of a 1986 90 van back on the drivers side? I must remember to keep smiling as the bits fall off Cheers James

Hi can anyone tell me the number and perhaps where I could get hold of one of the levers for the drivers side of the above part? Oh by the way the doors are the external lift up handle type. Cheers

My little girl (2yrs old) loves our 90. She points them out as daddies landrover while out with her mum. So its the LR for me/us

Cheers All, Will have a look at what its like and see what can be done and let you know how I get on. James

Thanks for all the info. Oh well It could be worse.....

I have to say I didnt notice. If so is that an expensive job parts wise?

Still got oil leaking from rear hubseal after replacing the seals found that it leaked again because the breather was blocked now the breather is clear the damn thing still leaks like a cheap tent. Would the new seals have been knackered by the pressure from the diff when the breather was blocked but shouldnt the seals just re-seal once the pressure was relieved? I dont know the answer....any ideas?

Cheers

On Sunday my drivers door decided to play –up and as a result I managed to snap the interior lock release lever off (doh ) Does anyone know if any of the early disco release levers might fit my D reg 90 or were I can get a replacement already tried fleabay. Got off to a bad start but started removing the corrosion on the body of the 90 pre the paint-up and used a grit blaster with mixed iron slag and glass it worked very well and I was able to feather the edges so not too much papering back was needed .It worked well with my small 3hp compressor and a hand held hopper blaster it saved me a lot of time. If you have got a fair amount of oxidation I can recommend grit blasting. Cheers

As ever thank you

Last weekend I replaced the cappings on my 90 and decided to speed things up with my rattle gun with socket and driver fittings this worked well until the rivenut or is it a rivesert came free that holds the visor in place. The question is does anyone know if its a rivenut or rivsert and what size is it? As I would like to buy a setting tool and reset it before putting the head lining back. Thanks

Thanks

Hi, I have noticed that when you see images of military Defenders the headlamps seem sunken or is this just a case that the civilian ones have the plastic facia applied to the wings and the military ones dont? See I said it was probably a silly question

Hi, I have noticed that when you see images of military Defenders the headlamps seem sunken or is this just a case that the civilian ones have the plastic facia applied to the wings and the military ones dont? See I said it was probably a silly question

Thanks Ralph, I thought I had spotted a possible replacement. Never Mind Cheers

Hello all, Can anyone tell me if the engine mounts for a 200Tdi are the same as a 300Tdi on the chassis? Cheers

I think the main worry is if you ignite any vapour lurking in the chassis cavity the waxoyl is flamible but its the vapour residue you have to be careful of I would leave it a good long time for any heavy solvent vapour to lea before you weld after your waxoyl and then keep a bucket of water or better still a fire extinguisher handy. Have a look at the link. http://www.lro.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=43005&view=next&sid=b6a218b1b18b544b2ee289fb41540d2f All the best James

Thanks. I will patch as for as long as I can I think and then bite the bullet and replace the chassis as my wife reminded me I have already bought loads of fresh parts to put on the 90 like a rust free bulkhead and doors so to sell the thing would be a waste of time. Thanks for the input it always helps to get advice from folks who have “been there and done that”

If you weld galvanized be careful as its nasty stuff I did some and had a headache for about a week

Dilemma… My D reg 90 (retro fit 200tdi) has got quite a lot of rust on the chassis and I have replaced the outriggers and rear crossmember and have just found a small hole behind the bumper in the dumb irons on one side but it’s no great chasm so a little patch will sort it out. The dilemma is do I keep the 90 and replace the chassis as I know the engine is sound or take a chance on another (new to me) 90 with a better chassis? It seems that by the time I have spent the money and time doing a chassis job I could have got a whole possibly better vehicle for a little more money . Thoughts and sage words welcome

Thanks