Top90

Unless you are going super extreme, I personally think you only need a basic diff guard that protects the pan of the diff, which can be holed by a stray rock. You can get them nearly anywhere. That and something to protect the steering bars. A lot of other stuff is just excess weight.

I had the same issue with the Td5, with the 1.2 T-Box it was not good in traffic as 1st was a bit high. Had it remapped and it was better, but it was never as good as it was with the 1.4 T-Box. But with the 1.4 it was noisy at motorway speeds (70mph here). The auto conversion has been done many times. Ashcroft Transmissions (I know you are not in the UK) have some info on thier website here: http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewCat&catId=7 I bought a Puma in the end. 6 gears, all rations fine and I never felt the need to chip or remap it either.

Yes, I liked the map, which was in the brochure on the LRO stand in the middle of the show. Shame it wasn't given when you paid as I spent an hour and a half wandering round without a clue where anything was.

Without pictures it's hard to be 100% certain, but what the poster above says is more likely. Some people say alluminium Land Rovers don't rust... They do as they have steel parts, but they also corrode due to the reaction of the alluminium. Galvanic_corrosion link and explanation if you need it.

What happened to Portal-Tek ? They seemed to be making some nice stuff.

I have to say that not only does it look OK in show colours, the fact that Mercedes are fitting all over locking diffs and now portals to the G wagen (even if it is just this one) it does show up what LR do to the Defender a bit...

Sounds like the spring rates may be too high. Try loading it up with some weight and see if it's any better. If so, then that's the problem = You need softer springs.

The clue is in the title. I imagine it's quite a lot of fun.

I think the base of the snorkle replaces the plastic grille and uses the same fixing points. Run a bead of sealant (such as silicone) round the joining faces before you screw it on to get a watertight seal. You remove the existing plastic cover as it's another join to leak if you go over the top and it's not needed anyway.

Reminds me of the 65k Camel 110 that pops up on ebay from time to time... Mad, but you never know.

I was just going to ask that. I didn't think LR galvanised the doors either.

A lot more!

Is it worth it for this type of kit? I never found Defender air-con any good until they finally brought out a proper system on the Puma. When I got my TD5 it was one of the few things I left off the options list. Good old vent flaps were fine.

Inside the bulkhead may be a good idea. Not sure if they bother to paint it and they do rot on older ones.

I have completely stopped buying with emails now. 80% are unanswered. If I need something, I phone and speak to a real person and ask questions like "do you have it in stock?" Hurrah for technology!

I thought it was Skoda that was proud of making it's drivers happy.

It's probably come off a runner or something needs greasing. Either way, it's a door card off and have a look-see job.

The moment I followed this link somewhere else I started to get worried: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/news/7867037/Victoria-Beckham-appointed-creative-design-executive-at-Range-Rover.html Range Rover as a brand seems to be (or maybe it did when the sport came out?) heading in a new direction, capturing new buyers who want different things to Land Rover owners. I can't think of many things worse than buying a car fronted by Mrs Beckham. I mean, what kind of message does that send out?

Didn't know the Range Rover came with a TDV6, but I'm guessing you mean a Sport. Which is not the same. I have to say I like the look of the new one. Not sure about the name or making a 2wd version available though. Sure it will sell well with people who want a non-off road but off road style car or a 'baby' range rover that trades on it's bigger brother's name to a degree.

Planet rat-faced, at 11:30pm on a Friday night!

My Camel is a station wagon and has the under-driver-seat tank (as they all did I think) and there are no issues. It fills from the top. You remove the driver seat base and metal plate to access it. It'll be a Land Rover part. I'm sure someone with more experience will know if the tanks are a different shape or the same.

According to the DVLA vehicle enquiry it's a Land Rover with a 2.0 litre petrol engine. And it was only registered 9 days ago, so well spotted.

I found that I got mixed messages from several insurance companies over the years. Luckily I found NFU and they are very good.

Sad news indeed. RIP Mr.King.

Some people also fit a flick switch or two on the front wings. Saves having to hunt for the remote if you want to do it from outside. Mine was done for me and they did a good job. It was between the sidelight and indicator, with a switch protecter. Easy to use and no messing about getting the controller out. With another flick switch on the dash I don't actually remember needing to get the remote out on my old 90.