Diablo

That's looking so much nicer!

Can put disco 2 isolators on in place of the standard turret rings. Might be worth checcking voer your bushes whilst your mucking around there?

Mine were with my phone too, but in a bit of a rushrush. And no, not linked the hard starting, just something I found whilst investigating that. Also found no power going to the glow plugs, so a few issues to fix.

Cheers Ralph. Better pics than mine. Yours looks in good nick. Not sure mine is crushed enough to cause a massive issue though, esp with what Ash says. Will go with the cheap option then.

I'm currently diagnosing my poor starting. Spill off pipes aren't in the greatest of conditions, so will replace. Would normally spent the £2 on some 4mm (I think) pipe and be done with it, but where the spill off pipes return to the ip, I noticed that the main feed pipe to the ip is a little bent/crushed. Is this enough to restrict fuel flow noticeably do you think, and therefore worth spending the £40 on a complete spill off pipe assembly? Not the easiest thing to photograph, but a few pics below

Go to parker tools' website - they supply proper galvanised nuts, bolts, washers. I used these on my rebuild and am very glad that I did.

The recon'd box wasn't from NPS was it? I had 2 from them before realising that the ones they sent me were worse than the knackered things I sent them.

If it's working that efficiently then I may well be sold...

Looks good! I too am thoroughly fed up with oil in the filter housing, and have been tempted with Provent type oil catch tanks, until I see the price.. Maybe it's worth it though to keep the mess out of the filter and intercooler.

Got mine from ghound, and he threw in some galv'd brackets too. Repairs were good and the galv seemed great too with no obvious warping. Paid £500 I think and it was delivered from Ireland very quickly. 3 years later i've no regrets at all

Cheers for the help - had to show it who's boss with oxy and a slide hammer and it popped out nicely. Kept the heat suitably blocked from gaiters etc and all seems well!

Well it doesn't spin - not with a 2ft wrench anyway. More beatings will resume on Saturday, and I think I will resort to grinding the bugger off if that doesn't do it. I do agree about Tanuki, but I'm unwilling to be defeated by this now!

Tried hammering it from various angles on various parts.The only vague movement is the slight bend in the photo. And that was after a few hours' work... re: boot, yep, ripped most of it off prior to heating it, to save it all stinking the place out.

Removable yes, but you can't get a direct hit on top of it due to the genius design of the hub. I guess if you did strip it completely down then you could show it who's boss with the oxy and hope for the best. Fair bit of work though.

Red heat with the oxy will no doubt sort it - heat always works - but I am very concerned about the grease and seals in the hub/drive shaft

Quite, hence attempts to turn it and heat it in order to break this corrosion

Not LR I know, but mechanics, so vaguely related. I need to change the ball joints on the other half's mini, however they are very happy remaining where they are. I have tried the big F.O. hammer and chisel, nowt. Then attached slide hammer (albeit at a bit of an angle due to the location of the pit under the car), which eventually yielded a hairline gap between the joint and the hub. Sharpened up chisel, got hammer out and enlarged gap - or so I thought. Instead it has just bent the ruddy flange. Have also tried a bit of heat (don't want to go too mad and melt the grease/seals) and various methods of trying to rotate the thing in the housing (hammer and chisel, large stilsons etc), but not thinking of budging. Any ideas? Short of cutting the thing off and making a right mess of the hub?

Cheers

This is the gasket between the fuel filler and the body. I have a 1985 90, which would suggest using 500710, but I have just replaced the filler with the later ntc2676, which has the gasket ESR1650 Which should I get, if it matters that much?

I got a repaired and galv'd one from ghound for around £500. Fantastic work and haven't looked back.

Vinylast - from a company called Rourkes Goes straight onto galv, no real prep needed (the usual degrease and a very light keying). Mine's been on probably three years now and, other than the filth, looks almost like I put it on yesterday. Fantastic stuff. Welcome to come and look my Landy if you want to.

Glad to hear it. One of the reasons I hadn't got round to getting a WOR kit. I did wonder if it would be possible to raise the lock above the mat (ie bolt it to the floor with a 10mm spacer, or whatever thickness is required), so that the mat is permanently under it.

Has anyone worked out a satisfactory way of incorporating it with an X-Defend pedal lock?

I know of people who have done it in a (rather long) day.

Found this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220789349510?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 Believe it is NTC2676 plus a locking cap. Description doesn't give that part, but does say it is used to convert earlier models to a locking cap. Can anyone confirm that this is a straight swap?