Diablo

Hadn't thought of that - fair play. It would be miniscule amounts, but I suppose any is bad.

Is that the only way pressure builds up - wouldn't expect it on a new engine (first noticed it happening approx 3-6 months after installation)

Quite, but I don't want to replace them and have the new ones caked in oil straight away. dailysleaze: complete 'new' engine from Turners - hence not too happy with this apparent over-pressure issue. I'm not clued up enough on engines to understand how it would come about on a new engine. western: would a new lid just cure the symptom rather than the problem? The gasket is peeing out oil too

Also, is there any benefit in replacing the standard intercooler hoses for silicon ones?

I'm still fairly sure that the oil is coming out of the join between the turbo output and the first elbow on the pipe work to the intercooler. I just haven't fixed it yet as it gives me a good gauge on how much is coming out. I have now got the hose form the seperator in a bottle - so I shall give it a week or so of running and see what the oil on the bonnet looks like. My seperator is a few weeks old - I replaced it as a precautionary measure - see the first page. Not too happy with the oil running out of it though. Had a quick look at the engine after approx 30 mile run today and there is a dribble of oil in the catch bottle, and a bit on the usual spot on the bonnet. The rocker cover doesn't look great either though - as well as the leaks from all over the gasket, there was this: Looks to be peeing out of the oil filler cap too - further leaning towards my theory that the engine is breathing too heavy. Which I don't understand on an engine that's a year old.

Finally had a chance to get onto this - have take the hose off and stuck it into a bottle as suggested This is after a week's commuting (circa 150 miles) Also took a pic of the seperator: as you can hopefully see, there was oil running out when I took the hose off.

A mate of mine had very similar symptoms and it was the brake light units that were corroded that caused the problem. As for headlight upgrades: LEDs are very good, but will also empty your wallet rather quickly. Instead, get crystal units (£35), decent nightbraker-esque lamps (bulbs) (£20-30?) and then properly relay and re-wire your headlights (again, £20-30). the change in output is immense.

Thanks. Must have missed one end of the pinion on the diagram I was looking at! Dad has the tools, although I go to a mate who has a nice shed workshop with the right kit and suitable presses. We rebuilt my front diff a year or two back without too much hassle. And yes, afaik a standard axle, not Salisbury.

Need to rebuild my rear diff (drums on back) at somepoint, not sure which bearings I need, as I've found several for seemingly the same place: pinion: 539707 or 539706 And inside: RTC3095 or RTC2726 also the pinion seal: there's a double lipped version, where can that be obtained from (part number?)?

I've used them as high up handles (above the door window) - but know what you mean. I think I cut an inch to an inch and a half off each end to get it how I wanted.

If you are on Defender2.net, there is a Land Rover rep on there and he should be able to tell you if you send him the VIN.

Yes, an amount is, but I've got much more than I have previously with the old engine. Hence this thread. Anyway, next test is the hose into a catch tank of sorts. The turbo hose isn't being fixed as it reminds me of the oil leak, and allows me to check what effect any efforts produce. It isn't normal to empty the sump of oil every month or two!

Oil leaks down the pipe into airbox. Air is then sucked through turbo, from airbox, collecting some oil with it. due to the slight leak on the output hose, some of this oil gets blasted at the bonnet, the rest goes into intercooler/engine and burnt off. That's my current theory; the only external leak is the air hose.

It is hard to get a picture that shows it well. when I replaced the cyclone breather, I cleaned everything out - the hose to the air box, and the pool of oil in the air box. Once this was done, with the new breather, the oil spray stopped for a week or two - presumably whilst it 'filled up' again - this to me suggests that it is less likely that it is the turbo - the external hoses anyway. Once the MOT is out of the way, I'll stick the breather hose in a bottle for a few 100 miles, then see what things look like.

thanks to both for your help Intercooler was cleaned when the new engine went in - December 12. i'm sure it's full up again now, but not worth cleaning whilst the problem still exists. Mav: new washers were used and I guess you're right re: the rocker. as for the oil - it is being released from the hose on the turbo output side. Obviously this should be properly sealed, but currently it reminds me that oil is leaking! Have checked all the oil pipes a couple of times and they're fine. And they're also on the wrong trajectory. I guess it makes sense to stick the hose in a catch tank to rule in/out the engine/turbo and then go from there.

Still pissing out oil at a rate of knots Not sure what the next avenue to go down is - Turners said it may be linked with the fueling - didn't quite get that one though? There's a few small leaks around the rocker cover gasket too, so it appears to my naive eye, that the engine is breathing rather heavily, though the reasons behind that I'm not sure.

That video is 2 years old, so wouldn't 100% trust it!

Is it definitely free from air locks?

Mudstuff sell similar stuff, not swivel though and at a bit of a premium if you ask me. I have one of these http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/low-profile-interior-large-led-light.html Though it was much better priced when I bought it. I have it in the middle of the roof, behind the front headlining. Gives a good amount of light out.

New wiring is the best upgrade you can do. I have done this and used new nightbreaker style lamps, and the overall improvement is huge. Just weighing up getting crystals now

Mine's a B and is Trident Green. We all know real Land Rovers are green

Is it any better when warmed up? Does double declutching help? My Lt77 does the same sort of thing, but for 3rd, and Ashcrofts reckon it's a naff synchro mesh. I just double declutch for now, which solves the problem until it's warmed up.

My thoughts too XS Spray Wiper upgrade kit. Gets the best of both worlds for google then. Even if it is officially only called XS Spray Wiper.

Probably worth a look at some instructions! I remember the set up of the plastic peg being particularly important. As for the transfer lever coming off - part of the kit is a nut to stop this happening - as you say, pretty useless otherwise. There's also another security nut on the main gearstick

hammer. Shoes, as you say, should be fully in - probably needs a bit of persuading. Then take it off, chuck it away and get an X-brake.