Chicken Drumstick

Good to see the only challenging bit of terrain it was stuck on it.

Can't help I'm afraid. Interested in what mods you are doing though

Wouldn't even know of a truck wash place locally. It's like £12-15 on ebay.

Thought I'd update with progress. I've used some trailer mud flaps. Quite easy to install and I like that they are flexible, so easy to hold up to wash behind, should mud still ingress. I'm going to do the same to protect the rear cross member and the outrigger in front of the rear arch. I'm also going to get some HDPE (5 litre jerry cans are cheap on ebay). To cover over the other gaps. Front arch:

Yes very telling, considering he has 206,000 subscribers on YouTube. And his two most popular videos are about Defenders with 2.9 and 1.7 million views respectively.

I'd like to recommission the rear sliding window on my truck cab, the runner like the stock door window runners is heavily corroded and distorted. Does anyone offer a non rusting material runner as a replacement? Many many years ago I bought some plastic runners for the door tops from, I think the Series Owners club. You had to cut them to length, but worked well. And of course didn't deteriorate like the stock felt/metal ones do. I know have Rocky Mountain door tops and they also use a plastic/rubbery plastic runner set. I'm assuming this type of runner would work on the rear sliding window too. I've seen a few for sale, e.g. https://www.paddockspares.com/2005btc-window-channel-truck-cab.html Or ebay. But none say what material they are.

I used a Defender column. Pics in this thread: forums.lr4x4.com/topic/97313-modified-leafer-88-and-rebuild-with-upgrades/

A bigger intercooler is the way to go. No downsides. And if you tweak the pump you'll get better gains and lower EGT's. Which transform how a Tdi drives and tows. A cheap option would be a generic intercooler from ebay and fit in front of the rad. Can be done quite easily at home with a few basic hand tools.

So I never found a suitable motor that I wanted to spend the money on to use the Series heater box/matrix. I eventually got a 90 heater box assembly for free. A little rusty, have patched it up this weekend and fitted it. Bit more snug in a Series, had to remove some of the old throttle linkage brackets (think that is what they were). And the mud shield needed a little "massaging" to fit back in place around the fan motor. Still need to plumb it in and and wire it. Also hook up some cables for the flaps on the box. But I feel better that it is now attached to the vehicle! Not sure if I'll cut a hole in the wing top and fit a Defender air intake, or just pipe it from somewhere else yet. No hurry now that summer is pretty much upon us though.

Nice. I’d have gone for more akin to the Series 2b offset though (ET01).

Sounds a bit odd. While it’s normal for speedos to over read a bit. 13mph seems way too much. And correcting itself on 35’s??? Maybe it has the wrong speedo drive? My 200Tdi D1 would under read on 33’s.

I think it will sell. Well initially, but for how long? And more importantly at what cost of other models in the LR line up? I know a few people lined up to get the new Defender. Each and everyone of them is trading in either an RRS or Disco for it. I don't know a single person trading in an old Defender for a new one. And yes, completely it is the wrong name on the wrong vehicle. Done for only one reason - marketing and selling out the brand and pissing off the loyal following.

What pumps did you use if you don't mind me asking?

Thanks for the ideas. I've ordered some trailer mud flaps for £10 delivered off ebay. Will see how well they work and if good I'll get some more. Might see if I can get some HDPE too, as there are areas around the engine bay I wouldn't mind boxing in a bit better too.

Thanks, they look ideal. But kinda "ouch!!!" pricing. I wonder what material they use, it just says 3mm rubber. Also, my vehicle isn't exactly a Defender either, it's a little more bespoke. So these sadly would be unlikely to be direct fits. But the principle and material are exactly the sort of thing I had in mind.

To stop mud getting up on the outriggers and other places such as the rear cross member. I want to make some shields/guards up. Should be easy, cut to shape and attach. Probably just drill some small holes and use stainless screws with a washer. Not sure what material to go for. A quick look on ebay and I'm seeing listing for neoprene rubber and silicon rubber. Anyone any idea what would work best? Thanks.

Journos are paid. Either freelance or for who is publishing the article. Without things to review and places to read/watch reviews, they would have no career and no job. LR might not hand them cash payments. But it will be more along the lines if we will fly you out on an expenses paid review. Most people will pay thousands to partake in an overland trip. Excluding the cost of the vehicle prep. An expensive free holiday and a career boost certainly sounds like a form of payment to me.

RAC Parts do some front shock relocation bits that might work:

200Tdi Disco box, want to remove the pitman arm. Any tips on doing this? Or anyone recommend a puller that makes light work of it. Thanks.

They are handed, but have no markings or numbers on them. Thanks.

How do the LSE air springs attach? The pics look like they bolt on like the lower spring seat does on the coil springs: P38 air springs have a socket and sit inside a mounting hole on the axle and are retained with pins. (ignore the fact it's a coil... the aluminium adapter is the same shape as the bottom of the p38 air springs)

The stock air suspension on the p38 is actually quite a poor setup off road. Due to the long overhang at the rear you would want it in the extended ride height setting. But it was way to stiff and bouncy off road really. The Arnott Gen 3's should be a lot better, although the price of them is horrendous! On the flip side, I often used to lock my p38 into the motorway/lowered setting. Because it genuinely rode a lot better than when in the Normal ride height mode, due to the softer springs. But you could also feel it was a lot softer in the corners too. Really it was all the wrong way round. Low and firm for high speed is what I'd want. And a normal mode for general use that is comfy. With soft long travel suspension off road. ACE would also be the ultimate compliment on this era (any era??) of air sprung vehicle too. As you'd be able to keep a softer spring for ride quality, but still reduce body roll.

20mpg imperial from that setup as a mean average and not thrashing it. There is something not right at all. Fuel leak, poor map or calculating it and distance incorrectly.

They said running at 70. You won’t be doing that in 4th!! Td5 has as much to do with BMW as Ferrari does.

Agreed. Although I do quite a lot of Trials in my Land Rover(s). And turning radius is of utmost importance. And you can get better turning with a slightly wider track. The stock rims and even 235's can rub the radius arms. So there is more lock to be had. I effectively run mine without the lock stop nuts in place and use the flange on the axle tube as the lock stop. With the right tyre/wheel combo it makes for very good lock.