Blanco

Cost wise it is hard to beat milking gloves (nitrile), I buy a box of 100 for about €17.50, they are heavy enough to put up with a bit of grinding, but fit prety well inside a welding glove for serious work.

Seems to be the same part number, JRB100840

Just seen THIS if anybody is looking for Superwinch spares

Welcome to the forum. A couple of hopefully helpful suggestions... it helps a lot to get people interested in your project (and therefore respond to queries) if you tell us a bit about your vehicle and what you are doing with it. Also we love photos. Particularly from other parts of the world where Land Rovers can be different to the home market offerings. 110's are produced over a number of years with different door types so it would help a lot if you can say what year/model etc. ..... that said, most people would build a body by trial fitting frames/bodies/floors and making numerous time consuming adjustments so that their specific doors fit as well as they can. While doors may have ideal dimensions, the fit of the body and doors is best done as a wholistic exercise. Lots of people here have built/rebuilt vehicles and can chip in with their own experience but it would help a lot to have a bit more to start with.

In my experience drill bit grinders, certainly the high street ones are of little use. There are some more sophisticated machines at around £500 that will do a decent job, but at that sort of money you might as well get a more useful and more capable D-bit grinder. A bench grinder with a fine cut wheel, a pot of cooling water and a bit of practice will be much quicker, much cheaper and you will learn to appreciate what matters about the shape. Lots of stuff on YT on it, and quite a few self-build style guides/alignment aids you can have a go at, but once you get to a certain point most people freehand sharpen with success. You learn to stop and redo one that isn't cutting straight away. Much better to spend the difference on drill bits then when you do have a sharpening session, you are getting multiple goes at once and a better feel for it

The bids were up to £33K when I last looked, the lack of a sold price after the auction usually means it didn't reach reserve. It might go round again on the next auction, sometimes they do.

Tempted but can't really afford a new one. My Stepson though has reserved one personally and has applied to become a dealer, ... down under... oz

The Classic JLR site is increasingly useful..... LINK Not sure what you meant by 2052, but if it is 52 reg plate then you will need to check on the VIN no. Click on the part and the part number appears. then go hunting for that number.

If I had a destination address in N.I. to use it might be but as it is I don't and my car is a Southern reg. so I would be stopped leaving the port. There is a solution though..... I have to come and get it and drive it on the ferry myself,..... but it mustn't cost me more than €430

Mine was 'Ridgeway' single pack floorpaint in mid grey, big problem for me was that my floor was power floated and dust had become a huge issue. This paint has improved things hugely. This finish has the odd blemish, I have tyre marks where I parked one of the RR's a couple of days later but generally now it's what you need , pretty impervious to oil spills and what have you, easy to sweep, much nicer than before. ease of application was a big plus. I guess 2 pack is the ultimate but I am pretty happy with the single pack.

Interesting diversion this is becoming, ...... I suspect that the previous shipment was pre-brexit? So, yes Stena will take an un-accompanied vehicle, 'off-peak' on the 11:30 am sailing it costs £151.39 inc. VAT. In order to travel as 'freight' however it now needs a G.M.R. or Goods Movement Reference number. The shipper/vendor would normally be a commercial/business entity and now have all that in place. There is some provision for personal / private access to the system, which is administered by HMRC, through the medium of 'intermediary' services. I have stopped at that point and not yet rung HMRC to enquire further. The above gleaned from Stena and the Trader Support Service. Apologies to Peaklander if we are diverging somewhat!

I did wonder about that solution, I will enquire at Stena whether a car can be met with a trailer, only snag might be insurance, but its worth asking.

Can't remember the make, I'll look when I go out shortly but I seem to think it was a local Irish brand. I bought a long handled 12" roller rather than a broom, I guess it depends how smooth the slab's finish is. I was going to buy Leyland, based on a previous thread on the subject but Screwfix wouldn't deliver paint at the time so I had to go with what was available.

2 weeks is tight if it is only just poured, ..... it'll still be very green. I used 1 part Polyurethane with good success, and that is a good DIY solution. Whatever you go with make sure you paint it before you start moving in ..... so much easier!

Think I found it, ... Buxton? It might work, it would mean flying into Manchester and getting my sister to pick me up. But at that price I would want the air suspension intact. Although miles aren't stupid, and it doesn't show signs of being 'improved' for off road. My search was currently focused in Stonehaven, Scotland as I'll be there in a couple of weeks anyway. But I would make a special trip elsewhere for the right vehicle, it was really more if anyone knew of a vehicle where chassis corrosion was going to be a headache for the next MOT but mechanically seemed OK. I can get to Edinburgh, Manchester, Birmingham and Gatwick from my local airport fairly cheaply so I have been focused on those areas. If a forum member had had eyes on a vehicle as well, that would just give an extra little bit of confidence before 'launch' from here. More in hope than expectation really, but as t he subject had been raised, I chimed in.

Wish I could find V8 auto's over here! been on the hunt for a parts car for ages now. If anyone comes across one with a remnant of MOT, that would be safe / legal to drive back to Ireland, please keep me in mind.

... Same here, fingers crossed for something simple.

Big difference in quality between SnapOn and Neilson! Always used Norbar myself, I have a Norbar 120101 for the big stuff but chinese stuff will be cheaper. For very occasional use it will probably serve? If you are planning regular use then I would go for something else.

Beat me too it, I am sure it is weight related.

Sorry Pete, been away to Mull, just back and catching up. Yes with swapping my loom onto the engine,.... it transferred across. Just up to about 1200 miles now on the engine including the trip to Mull. ran very well and started very well once I replaced the heater plug fuse. I eventually got the timing kit delivered to an Oban hotel to get round the Brexit headaches. Haven't tried it yet but it is starting so well it can't be far off. Three niggles so far, a small diesel weep from an injector pipe which I cured en-route, the crank rear oil seal appears to have failed (I put a new Corteco one in) I will have to try and source a genuine one. Before the seal failed, for the whole trip up it didn't use any oil at all that I could see. The worst 'niggle' seems to be bad/dirty diesel bought on the island,... we were on a dual carriageway I think when the engine light first came on and the engine died. Nanocom recorded a fuel supply fault I forget the exact wording, it happened three or four more times on the trip South. I am going to put some Redex fuel cleaner in it with a tank of fresh fuel and change the filter. Can't think what else it could be. It was fine on the way North.

I saw that too, ... probably put the insurance up though if you admit to bypassing it. Can't decide whether I am for or against, I have had trouble a couple of times when the key seems to lose sync, but generally mine seems OK. Nice to know it's available if I start to get trouble I guess.

I have to say ... knowing what you were working with.. that is a top job👍

I kind of have that problem,.... but I have decided to be brave and start a couple anyway, ... As I still have a P38, .... at least for the present, there aren't any cars at £500 over here and I would be glad of one for spares and fittings.... bits to refurb and then swap: rather than have the truck off the road as it has been lately for the engine swap.

I thought Top Hat Liners were the curall for V8's? but as I also said they wouldn't be my favourite (or indeed something I know much about except the money I once spent fixing and swapping when I didn't have the time or facilities) so I expected the some other comments on what might be the issue with that engine given the new HG's an so on. My apologies if it was too obscure.....

I think P38's are on the up gently, good bodywork helps a lot though, shabby drivers seats are easily cured by swapping in a passenger squab. But window trims and door locks require more investment and are harder to find. Head lining is one of those that seems daunting to tackle but go carefully and get an assistant and it is actually straightforward. I would buy one like a shot near that money just for the spares value, they do have their issues but everything is generally well covered here or in the RangeRoverPub. I am not a particular fan of the V8 but the 4.6 is the one to have. Sounds like it might need THL treatment? Plenty on here will chip in on the V8 side. I would make sure to include all the LPG system in the deal, although LPG seems to be sliding left gently? It is a great vehicle, I say yes