moose

mike, what size are they? going up to 7sisters this weekend sure i could throw them on the trailer for you. drop me a PM Paul

Topgear can drive round in suppercars a Megane will be fine.... as was our sprinter support van. But from my experiences it will make life easier if you have a bit of ground clearance

I have driven to Romania twice, once 2009 and again 2010 both times for an offroad event and both times towing Driving to Romania is no harder than driving any where else. The route we always took was the main arterial route through Europe (no toll roads) and very busy day and night but a good 3 lane motorway on which you can cruse for us towing was 60. We also ran almost non-stop maybe grabbing some sleep for a few hour in a service area, remember we had our comp tucks and lots of other kit to keep secure. What time of year do you plan to go? Central Europe in summer is like an oven we always went in June/July and day temp easy up to 30plus deg C, this why we kept to 60 or below because in our over loaded transport the tyres were just melting esp the trailer ones. This is also why I now have aircon in my tow car The things we found... The service stations in Germany charge almost a quid to use the toilet (not to much a problem for blokes) Always drive with your head lights on day and night. Had a run in with law in Hungary we had just stop on a service area to refuel and driver change, got back on the motorway and forgot to put the lights on, 5 mins later 2 police cars pull us over. One look at us and they unclipped their guns and didn't speak a word of English... 50 euro fine later we on our way again. Depends on your route, but some countries you need a Vignette (road tax) for the length time that you will be in the country. We needed these in Austria, Hungary and Romania, don't buy these at the road side shacks they inflate the price, instead buy at the first fuel station that you come to once in the country. Some Countries (like Germany) don't allow commercial traffic on a Sunday and the borders of these countries can get very busy on a Saturday/Sunday night. We never did manage to find and break down cover that would work once in Romania, rest of Europe not a problem. In the 2 years back to back that we were in Romania we noticed a difference. The first year we went driving down the main route (the Romanian M6) which in this country would be a single lane B road was scary, massive lorries over taking on blind bends usually with some local in a Dacia welded to the lorry's rear bumper. Lots of women offering services and the fields by the side of the road were littered with over turned lorries. Also the road surfaces were not all that great pot holes and in some places the road had a curb height drop across the middle of it, hard to see in the day let alone night. The next year we went on this main road there were police all over the place with lots speed traps, no women and the roads had been much improved. All the main roads are tarmac but there are lots of smaller roads that are not, and as we found the road maps (if you can find one) are all a bit sketchy, just because there is a bridge on the map does not mean it is still there now some of the overtaking the countryside is just stunning hmm we didn't follow too close behind this one 1 BHP.... Allways had a good time when we went and found the local people friendly and helpfully. paul

thanks for the help I will try Gwyn.

yer tell me about it and the reason for the post I guess the makers of HD steering bars have them made... I guess If i was more talented i could use the thread cutting gears on my lathe and make mine own too, but I am not that clever.

Sorry, To make myself clearer i mean i need a nut that will fit threaded part of the TRE that goes in to the links, and not the ball joint end.

Any one know where i can get nuts that will suit the land rover TRE thread? After both left and right had threads like you get with after market HD steering bars thanks

it all bends in the end.. the stronger you make it the harder it is to bend back

so it will not run at all that the moment? can you still hear the fuel pump running? I dont know how easy it is to get to the top of the tank pump on a def but check you are getting 12v etc. you can get fuel pressures from the computer when you look at the live data view...

what you lot need to man up yes easy to do in fact on my comp/play truck i have custom made the brake lines long enough that i can just unbolt both swivels complete with calliper still attached and move them out far enough to take the diff out. means front diff swap in under 10mins start to finish. Its the long half shaft side that always the hardest to locate if reinstalling it as a whole unit also the half shaft oil seal is on the back of the swivel not in the tube axle.

If you get stuck and do need some one to read faults drop me a PM should be able to sort you out paul

Ross if you mean the shire trip this weekend, was very tempted but will most likely be helping a mate shift some quality tat at the Newbury sort out.

Just thought I would round this thread off. I got hold of a 2nd hand compressor and which bench tested fine. I then fitted this compressor and now i can see how slow the original one was, Off-road height is reach in about half the time and its does not even get warm. And i can answer the question in my earlier post.... So long as the valve bock is good you can remove the main pump to valve block feed and keep the system pressurised, handy to know if you want to remove or test the pump on its own. I have not had chance strip the old compressor yet but there did appear to be some moisture in it not full of water but damp.. Will complete take the compressor apart to see if i can discover the full reason as to its poor performance. As a side note i did checked the compressor intake (behind the rear light cluster) and it was dry and the sunroof drain was still clipped up so as not to be draining onto the filter. Thanks every one that helped

I think its means its a factory replacement of most/some/all of the engine Mine is a 29p engine which was a main dealer complete engine factory replacement...

Yep this is what i am going to go with too It will be replace, then i will open up the old one to see if its a fixable problem... been toying with idea of and replacing the landrover compressor with some thing a bit beefier mounted out the way under the bonnet then i could use it for on board air too. but don't have the time for this at the moment. But I will T in a schrader valve into the compressor out put line so that i can manually inflate if the compressor dies again. Its defiantly not the springs as they are like new, when the truck was able to get to offroad height it would quite happy sit at this height with out the compressor running for as long as needed. Thanks for all the input.

Thanks Good idea. Yes if I lift the car to ORM height (after pressing the button) with a jack the light goes solid displaying that the truck is at height. In fact i must have gone a bit passed offroad height as when i put the truck down it had let almost all the air of the springs... opps ... and was not going back to ride height. So pulled the pump of the chassis and gave it a little thump started the truck and the compressor slowly got back to right height. I plugged in a fault reader and it had 3 faults on the SLS I don't when it was last cleared so some might be old but there were:- 187 Open compressor relay 197 Plausibility fault raising right 199 Compressor duty cycle exceeding unit. I cleared them down and tried the ORM again (it didnt work) and no faults were recorded... I checked the Live data, Both height sensors showed a reading and that the doors where closed (when they were). It also show that the ORM button was working and the Compressor relay Voltage was 0.2volts. All very exciting stuff but nothing really concrete as to whats wrong... My guess at the moment based on the above is the Compressor is close to dieing?

Ok thought I would have another plug at this problem... was hoping to sort it before the weekend so i can tow my other truck off for a little play... Any ways I dropped the compressor off the chassis so i can see and hear it proper.. And it runs when I hit the ORM button but only for a 30sec then stops. I pulled off the air intake pipe just in case that was blocked made no difference.. pump only ran again for 30 sec and was not even warm. So i pulled the 2 valve block electrical connectors they looked clean enough but i gave them a small squirt of WD40 and put them back on to the valve block. This time when i hit the ORM switch the pump stayed on and the truck very very slowly did rise to almost the offroad height (I know it wasn't full height as the dash light was still flashing) before the pump stopped (which was now warm, but not hot tho). I Pressed the ORM button again and the truck returned happily to normal ride height. Hit the button again and back to square one pump only ran for 30 sec and no movement. At which point it was beer o'clock so i chucked it back together. This is sounding like a valve block problem or compressor. In the above diagram does any one know if i can release the pipe and the connector 13 with out release all the air from the rest of the system ie the springs ? As at the moment the truck is perfectly drivable and dont want to be immobilized if i can help it All going well i should be able to get my hand on a fault reader on sunday.

yep I did try another relay. Can the compressor be removed with out letting the air escape from the springs so that it can be bench tested, then i can check it really is pushing some air.. will try and get some one to read the fault codes.

Check the ride height sensors tonight and they look fine, I took both off the car and the connections are clean as a whistle. Put the battery back on after reinstalling the sensors and its the same No SLS if i select the ORM switch one ping and its just sits there ORM flashing away and the compressor doesn't run The SLS warning light did come on once today as i was using the car quite a bit for short trips. The light always goes out after switching the car off. I am all out of ideas any one else got any thing to try?

Physically the sensors look fine the rubber and plastic ends all fine. At the moment I can only think that suspension is not raising or lowering/leveling because the SLABS is not getting a signal from a height sensor... I will try and check (with out braking them) the connections of the sensors to make sure they are clean. After this i guess i need to Plug it in.... So any one on the south coast nearish by with a Navcom, Hawkeye etc.. ?

yep thanks had thought it might be caused by a door sensor. But if a door was open i would have got three pings when I hit the offroad mode switch and ORM light on the dash would not stay on flashing as if the car was getting to height. Also on locking the car I didn't get a horn beep telling me a door was open. I don't think an open door would cause the SLS warning light either.

Hi guys SLS problem (its a 2001 disco ES) On the way home tonight the sls warning light came on. jumped out had a look round the car all sitting level and at the correct height, switched off and unloaded etc. then i had a quick look. Switched the engine on and no SLS warning light this time.hit the off road height button, one ping and the light flashes (the offroad height light eg the one with one arrow up and not the SLS warning light) on the dash and nuthing it just keeps flashing and I can not hear the compressor running. Checked the fusible link FL9 all good so I pulled the relay R5, bridged the contacts and i can then hear the compressor, so i know that is working. I am thinking might be a problem with the height sensors... they look ok but i have not pulled and checked the connectors are clean yet. Now that i think about it in the last few days i have not heard the system settling down from normal ride height after parking up. What else should i look at/test? Thanks Paul

I am liking this setup. Questions:- Are/were the swivel housings TD5 ones ? how quick is it ? I am guess you still cant using the stock LR ps pump? Whats the setup? Paul

Yes Jason, that is quite likely i guess, will throw another gasket and o-ring on and see what happens. cant wait to jam my hands down the back of the engine again

Hi guys, On my 2001 td5 (10p engine) disco I had a diesel leak down the back of the bell housing which has been getting slowly worse I suspected the fuel pressure regulator, as this area of the engine seemed to be the most diesel coated.. So decided to change it out ( i could never be a key hole surgeon ) fitting new gen FPR plus gen o ring and gasket... Got a phone call while fitting it back together and forgot to torque up the bolt of the 3 bolts, tried to prime the engine which produced a nice diesel fountain from the bottom of the FPR.... so torque up the third lower bolt and primed the engine all good took it for a quick blast about all running as it should. Now due to the diesel fountain I had created there was still some diesel about and so was not too worried about the drips.. this next day I check the FPR was nice and dry all good. But the pump made a noise like there was air in the system again, It started fine no cranking after being run up quickly the the pump was sounding back to normal and the FPR still seem dry. This morning again the pump was loud again like there was air in the system but the engine still started fine. When i got to work had a look underneath and it was still dripping diesel. flicked ignition and the fuel pump was quiet (well normal) again.. it was too hot to check the FPR for a leak. Any thoughts? what to check? my guess is that I goosed the gasket when i forgot to do up the bottom bolt? does this sound likely? does the fuel cooler and regulator hold the pressure when the engines off as there was not much fuel loss when I disconnected the pipes when changing the FPR? thanks for any input Paul