moose

Cool timing on this topic as I did this to My sump (200 tdi) last year at kov. I was lucky and its want a huge hit a managed to miss the oil pickup etc and carried on running with no side affects. I replaced the sump with spare from one of my other engines. I was going to make a guard like the one above.. then as thought the sump was steel i changed my mind and planed to just weld a 6mm steel plate to the bottom of it.... But maybe a guard is an easier way forward after all

The slave was the first thing to check and that was fine, I could push it back with into the cylinder and the pedal would move the piston forward etc.. My first thought was that is was the slave as the pedal went hard, with no bad crunching grinding noise that you normally hear from failure of the other bits in the clutch. When i dropped the box at first i could not see the problem until i took out the bearing.

this was on my defender comp truck yes there is defiantly an argument for getting an all metal release bearing yes was the britpart clutch kit I wasn't bashing I was asking if some one had had this happen to them or seen it happen as it was a new point of failure to me. The bearing looked and turned perfectly before I installed it or i would not have out it in. The old bearing was britpart and it still looked good after a year of some good abuse as did the whole clutch. I know and accept the risks when i buy lower cost parts and fit them to try and help with the costs of my hobby on consumable parts that rarely stay on this truck for more than a year. Had this failed in few days time in Croatia yes i would have kicked myself for not spending a few extra quid.. then opened a beer and just got on with it, chalking another one up to experience. Paul

any one seen this before... dead one along side an old one. The bearing has seized heated up and then collapsed as the plastic has melted away... This was brand new and did a total of 4 hours running. its seemed fine when i put it on, and worked perfectly until all of sudden no clutch.. The box it came in was blue... yes i know and they will be getting it back.

Air or hydro bumps are just small emulsion air shocks, that can be used to give you a position sensitive area of the axle travel. When using them you still feel the bumps but set-up right they really take the hits and hard landing out. It means you can go a lot faster over rough ground, and small jumps feel like driving over sleeping police men. With an air shock you also get a progressive force through out the range of its travel ie the closer they get to full bump the more force they push back with, you should be able to set them up to help a lot in cushioning the bumps. Are the shocks 14" ? Purely out of interest what's your compression/rebound travel going to be 50/50 ? I also don't think the turning effect will make any difference to the seals, as that movement is very small compare to what they cope with in the full range of travel. Plus being a re-buildable mono tube shock the seals are service items and easy to replace.

Really sure this is the problem, as mine are a bit slow of a cold morning for the first few goes. but they work instantly with the hazard switch

nitrogen is best as the molecules are big so less likely to leak pass the seals. also I don't think it expands as quickly with heat. the charge pressure is not as important as knowing the default the oil weight and amount. The gas charge is there to pressure the oil to help stop it foaming. to much pressure makes the shocks very firm. I would start at a 100 - 150psi go for a drive and see how it feels..

with a "mono tube" shock there will not be any huge differences... as the principles are always same The more noticeable differences are on the piston head design. bleed holes, port sizes, numbers etc.... each shock make also tends to have differences in the way they measure valving (or the shim stack) then more or less its just down to differences in the seals etc..

It would be a PITA if you had to service/fix some thing in swivel, especially if not in the work shop.....

I looked at this.As OBD modules can be got very cheap. And it looks like this would work on all the later engines eg tdV6's, tdci etc.. But with the TD5 landrover made their own ecu's so the TD5 ecu will does not communicate standard obd2 protocol, and so the need to more expensive test kit. I found this from internet searching so might be completely wrong of course paul

It really does not need to be any stronger than if it was the other way up. Its just a different way of looking at it and with front end layout in a land rover it looks like it helps with the packaging. If your hitting rocks with any force any suspension part or link is hard to keep straight

why not do an inverted a-frame setup? So like the Land rover rear but the other way up on the front.... ball joint mounts on the bottom of the axle and other two arms mount on the top. Seen quite a few rock crawlers with this setup and you could even use the a frame as a sump guard/slider you will still have same problem as the land rover rear where the axle steers as it travels through its arch. like this http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/land-rover/961915-d90-spidertrax-9-609-build-6.html#post15072062 I would do my links different to this example but you get the idea and its even on a land rover chassis paul

yep and the same in my D2

Yes my daily drive to work was very pretty this morning. had to clear a few lesser 4x4s and cars from a hill in order for me to use it but on the hole a nice pleasant drive.. paul

No

I don't know anyone who currently runs an "adventure" top as they are quite new... But I have wondered about this too, Why is the "adventure" housing not as good as the "challenge" one (or pro series as they call it)? there are only so many ways to put two motors on the top of a 8274, and Its the internals/motors that give the performance. So is the "pro series" and "adventure" top housings made from different materials, or not as strong.... what?

what like have to change a wheel front to back half way through a section....

Are you sure you didn't put the head gasket on up side down? ( i have done this once ) you can tell by the location of the gasket thickness indication holes. Also what type of gasket is it? Is it a multi layer steel (MLS) one, or composite? Did you clean the deck properly?

what about using reverse cut ring and pinion gears ... and wow Rakeway might be able to machine some nice gear but web design is definitely not their thing

Do the prop shaft UJ's have grease in them.... how did you check them?

Its on the section of the "hidden Valley" where we ran in the stream, with grass (ish) banks either side and a track higher up on the right. this area:- Its a large rock sticking out form the side of the bank, wont be easy to move...

are you changing the CV's as well? If Yes then all you will need to do is change the hubs units to the ones that fit the thin type drive flanges. the 300tdi hubs would do the trick.

What it pretty much looks like that every time i have been to a show there

Here are my thoughts... I did use to do this event and its was great, would go long with a group of mates and have fun, it was a good local event that you could use to drag along friends who don't normally compete so they could try it. this was the years before you have to pay a year full membership to HBRO (was just a day temp one for 5 quid) or other MSA club and you didn't need an MSA licence. Of course these days (due to doing other events) I have have both the MSA license and I am a member of an MSA club (AWDC) but all my friends who would be up for "having a go" don't and so will not attend as the cost is to much of a one day event to "have a go". Expensive off one day events will always get low number as far as i can see.. Nige, if you do end up organising it give me a shout would be happy to help, love to see it back running like it was Paul

yer going up for the j33p weekend. err wow five 37" tyres I will have to see if i can get my hands on a bigger trailer..... I guess the best thing to do would be for me to try them out for you over the weekend and then you can pick them up on Sunday afternoon, i doubt their be a mark on them as you know how soft the rocks are at walters Oh and "steve" you mean "Paul"