moose

I would say you will not go far wrong with some think like a numax CXV-X 1000 Amp... from some where like http://www.tayna.co....-Amp-P7632.html I have three on my challenged truck and one in the disco. They can take the a lot of abuse..from winching and also no problems starting my challege truck in -18 last winter when the rest of the truck was frozzen solid (and even to the ground).

The early HD shalfs had a (ahem) "issue" where at the drive end of the shaft the splines where made too long and if you just had a standard drive hub ie with the plastic shower cap the half shaft had a habit of pushing this off and sticking out of the hub like some sort of mad max type weapon. but from your post this does not sound like your problem, sounds like the quill tube (this is bit that does the locking) has jumped out of position. drop the pan off the front jack one wheel of the ground and try locking and unlocking the axle and check to see how the quill sits. It also might but a good idea to drop the shaft to pop out the quill and check it over. If its only been lightly engaging the end plate of the diff centre it might have been chatting and roughed up its teeth so will now not mesh together as smoothly as it should. hope this helps Paul

hmm in fact i think i might have answered my own question as looking at it the thermostat housing is quite a bit different...

As the title really.. Can a 200 tdi head be used as a replacement on a 300 tdi? I know the injectors and the rockers etc are different. But could you use a full built up 200 head on a 300. thanks for the input. Paul

Your truck will need to meet the regs for this comp being tax'ed, mot'ed, sva'ed etc.. dosen't appear in the regs as posted above. But if you get to worried i can enter in your place if needed

I always to a quick test start too but check to make sure you have some thing plugged into the oil cooler pipes if you have taken the rad out or its gets messy very quickly

In the past i have used pipe wrench. i am sure you can source one very quickly locally

fixed it for you James

cant think why you would need new bumpers now... and from your list of options it looks like you haven't considered a mighty, pink, 7 seat, off road warrior like this

If they are gased shocks you only really have a chance of rebuilding if its a mono tube shock..... I have never looked at Koni's but most off the shelf nitrogen shocks are a twin tube design (as they are more compact) and these would be a PITA to rebuild due to the extra chamber that holds the gas/oil.

yes its deliberate. the lower hole on the truss is the standard landrover link postion. Wont do a massive post about link geometry. It all about how to you use your truck, i was looking to make mine more stable at speed and when climbing by reducing the anti-squat. The way I under stand it (iam by no way and expert )Land rovers have a huge amount of anti-squat, you see trucks with a big lift and the links are at a massive angle to the chassis and ground. By making the links longer and flatter and with greater separation you reduce the load on the mounts and lower the anti-squat. This means more weight shift over the back wheels for better traction and less bounce, but to much and the front will kick up. There is of course a lot more to it than this, including center of gravity and roll center etc.. I have also just started playing with shock and spring setup when i get round to I will be redoing the standard front setup and going to a 3 link in order to create a more balanced setup....

This is true I defiantly would not use one to replace the A-joint for example but.... On my setup (200ish mm longer than standard arms) the creep joints don't bind movement of these joints could be also improved by machining up some spacers.

I have used both rose joints and Johnny joints. I would defiantly not use rose joints on both ends on a link, any wear in the joint will be exaggerated a rubber bush will help take some to the impact when your axle hits some thing. also every rose joint i have used wears, how quickly depends on the quality on the joint and the loading placed on them. For that reason i would try and keep them out of the muck as much as possible and not put them on the axle end. I have been running on my own trailing arms with Jonny Joints in the form of "trail gear creeper joints" for the last three years. I imported and used their middle of the range 5/8 (or 16mm through hole) joint at the time this was the cheapest way to get hold of them, but now lots of people stock these or like joints. Most people seem to use the 9/16 (or 14mm through hole) joint (like the gigglepin arms) with out problems. I used to use a ( m24 ) rose joint as A-frame joint in the same way as the qt joint but these used to wear very quickly and on one occasion I riped the center of the joint out while on a flat out hill climb. I was basically pushing the joint passed its max movement, so i switched its plane of movement making an axle truss for it and so far so good infact i have not need to replace it this year due to wear. Just my views hope it helps Paul

Not being funny but you did put the new calipers on the right way up with the bleed nipple on the top etc.... also there is a right way to bleed the rovers with abs have a search on here for the procedure. Last time i did a range rover with abs it was a real pain and it took hours to get a good pedal.

Not much on last night. but started watching this... http://www.bbc.co.uk...rammes/b016psp6 just goes to show the fanatical opposition that people using a vehicle on a legal green lane are up against so sad...

When towing 3 plus tonnes across Europe for 2 days non-stop both tow cars pop'ed turbo hoses off (at different times), as they had been on full boost for hours on end. this wasn't because the turbo's were dead just the jubilee clips and hoses had seen better days

I will throw in my thoughts. There are very few play and pay sites left and ones at Bordon get done to death for example Shires at slab last weekend and HBRO this. I do still like going there and find it a good area to test and shake down new setups. but for me to haul all my gear there and back plus the cost of the day is a good 70quid, So i don't/can't go every month. There was also a lot on last weekend, another club in the same membership area, was trying out a new site and so that would have drawn people. The other problem clubs have its advertising the events, as this needs to be done far in advance and site are not always able to be booked that far ahead. Where as pay and play sites for example can tell the mags and publish that they will be open on a weekend of every month and the word get around. Any way Shires next one is 5 mins of black smoke down the road form me and at a site that has not been used for some time, so will be making an effort to make this one. Paul

All sound interesting having seen fast pto winches in action in Europe. They seem to work very well for pulls across ground were traction is only there 25 - 50% of the time (like a deep river) where if using an electric winch you would have to slow down to stop running over your own rope. would love to see what you are going to use as the winch. Seen people use diffs with basically a spool fitted and drum mounted on the drive shaft. How are you going to do the brake? I had thought about using a disc brake that worked off the foot brake, as this is what you would naturally be doing to stop the drive assist, then use a line lock to lock the drum if you need to hang of the cable etc..

Ok i am going to drag this thread up... having done this to my front short shaft at the weekend. Phoned up kam today, expecting the worst. But nope still there and are fine to replace under warrenty, and even have stock too... and was also told that from the 1st of september Kam diffs will be part of allmakes. just though this might be of intrest to people who like me are still running their kit. paul

thats why you should aways read the screen, and look at what your putting in. Also hardly any machines put your full card number on the receipt these days...

Sorry not built one, But i have always thought that the perfect home build runners for and big storage draw would be the rack mount rails that are used to mount rack servers into data cabs. They can easily take that weight, most have a mechanism for separating the rails, so if using for a storage draw you would be able to take the whole draw out of the car when needed.

morning Dan, try a switch like this ebay you prob want a good 100 psi (or 7bar) in the tank paul

If its a 300 check the heater pipes.. one of them is very prone to rub through on the back of the engine.

when i asked the same question on page 1 of this thread the answer was :-

your kinda both right.... its all to do with the spring rate - or the how stiff the spring is. there are a few things that can affect the spring rate:- the length of the spring or the number of active coils, the diameter of the wire that the coils are wound from, the material the coil is made from, and the diameter of coil its self. So you can have two springs that are the same length but different spring rate. The stiffer the spring, and the more pounds of load it takes to compress the spring one inch. So for example to take a set of britpart 2" lift springs and put them on a 90" but also put the same springs on a fully 130, the 90 as it is lighter will more then likely see the full 2" extra lift but the 130 will not. which is of course why they have different lift spring sets for the different models (weights) of land rover. So it all depends on the manufacturer of the spring as to how they have achieved the greater spring rate hope this helps