nickjaxe

Whats SOA????

I fitted one of these to the end of my boost pipe on my 200di, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MINI-MOTO-IN-LINE-PETROL-FUEL-FILTER-MINI-BIKE-QUAD-ROUND-FUEL-FILTER-/190720594743?pt=UK_Sporting_Goods_Pocket_Bikes_LE&hash=item2c67d55337 But as Snagger says just point it downwards is all it needs. Nick.

Just edited it...try the second link. Nick.

Mmmmm I see...try this link then and enter the reg and its a Landrover. http://www.taxdisc.direct.gov.uk/EvlPortalApp/application?origin=vehicleEnquiryInfo_en.jsp&event=bea.portal.framework.internal.portlet.event&pageid=Vehicle+Enquiry&portletid=VehicleEnquiry&portletns=VehicleEnquiry_en&wfevent=link.next'>http://www.taxdisc.direct.gov.uk/EvlPortalApp/application?origin=vehicleEnquiryInfo_en.jsp&event=bea.portal.framework.internal.portlet.event&pageid=Vehicle+Enquiry&portletid=VehicleEnquiry&portletns=VehicleEnquiry_en&wfevent=link.next Or try, http://www.taxdisc.direct.gov.uk/EvlPortalApp/ and click on Vehicle Enquiry. Nick.

Looks like its still registered, http://www.taxdisc.direct.gov.uk/EvlPortalApp/application?pageid=Vehicle+Enquiry&portletid=VehicleEnquiry&portletns=VehicleEnquiry_en&wfevent=link.next Nick.

Rather than en-gauge the hubs....I wonder if its ok just to en-gauge 4 wheel high hubs unlocked...to save getting out and messing with them, I have them on my S3 and find it quieter and smoother....no idea if it helps MPG....but I see no reason why it shouldn't. Nick.

Mmmm yes that would be worth trying...I may have a go at that. Nick.

Not 100% sure how you can tell with 750s....anybody know if there radial or crossply. Nick.

Im on 2 leaf fronts 3 rear 88 soft top so running very light...bog std £10 shocks...not coiler comfort but IMHO pretty dam good compared to the old multi leaf springs...still have to near stop for speed bumps or the back end takes off...bloody annoying things....on radial tyres 205x16 25psi rear maybe your 750s are to hard. Nick.

Your 750s are they radial or cross ply? radial give a much softer ride. Nick.

I have them on my 88"....you need to en gauge them once a month or so to keep things lubricated, I would not be without them...I find less noise...never counted if they improve MPG...but I think they must as turning the front axle and prop must rob some hp from the engine...even though its the road wheels turning them. Nick.

Which model is it...and what tyres are on it. Nick.

Ok guys so have I got this right...nip up finger tight...then the req amount with a spanner to get rid of the free play. Nick.

Now I'm confused, I had it in my head that to adjust the steering box you set the wheel straight ahead and turn the square adjuster by hand only till it just nips up, I got out my green bible today...well it the older one grey ring binder type but a LR book...to make sure and it doesn't say that, It says..."Screw in the adjuster until the steering wheel backlash is taken up...screw it a further one half flat maximum to allow for lock nut tightening...then tighten the locknut without disturbing the adjusting nut". Mmmmm how do you guys set them. Nick.

Tex hope you dont mind me butting in here...I have a question for Snagger, Snagger I am in the process of getting around to re-building my S111 box but I am worried about the quality of replacement parts, Just spoke to a well known parts supplier in the Midlands to see where his are from...could be anywhere he said even brit part, I dont know what worn in mine yet, but my mate has lent me his spare to fit to mine to keep me mobile whilst I do mne, My symptoms are..needing constant correction when driving, feedback through the steering wheel from potholes...rough surfaces...its a kind of bang/thump, I have been all through the rest of the sys...track rods are all good swivel are fine with the correct pre-load, the rely is nice and secure, I can get rid or the wandering and feedback simply by slightly over tightening the steering box adjuster...ie by finger till just snugg as per the book...which still give me my probs and 25mm play at the steering wheel...or if I just tighten the adjuster a bit more with a spanner no more that a 1/8 turn all my probs are gone and the steering is no heavier and the clonking is gone...but I dont want to run it like that in case I increase the wear rate and bugger the box...it is tempting though, From what I have said what part of my box would you say is worn...and what do we do about getting good parts. Nick.

I have a hard and soft top but the soft top is now on all year round, as long as its not raining the back stays rolled up, and I love it but as others have said security is a prob, I have just bought a tin of Thomson's brick seal to re-proof it as its starting to let water through but it is many years old. Nick.

Re the special tool I made one from an old socket needs to be big not sure what size, you cut the castelations with an angle grinder, I know some people use a big chisel to undo and re tighten the main shaft nut but there is always the chance you may get bits of metal dropping into the trans fare box, After you fit the o/d be sure to check the oil level every week or so as they don't hold much oil and it surprising how fast it can leak out, I think thats the reason most old o/d are noisy people running them low on oil. Nick.

I have just taken mine off to sell it, things I needed for the job, silicon sealant, a new tab washer for the rear end of the main shaft, remove his o/d clutch sleave and fit your drive gear to his main shaft, You could do with the special tool to remove and refit the castle nut on the end of the mainshaft they need to be tight. Nick.

Why would you need to whats wrong with a 200alt. Nick.

Are you saying it took 30 mins to get upto temp if so thats no good, You can get the odd puff of blue with a slight mis if the pump timing is just a tad to far retarded but, that dont follow with the smoke under power, a badly worn skew gear can cause odd probs, I had one of those engines in mine for 35 years 180.000, I gave up on it 3 months ago and put a 200di in it, a sad time for me but I dont regret it now. Nick.

Is that the only prob wont go into first gear? I use very big self tappers to hold the floor on place. Nick.

I could not get hold of a deflection torque wrench anywhere, in the end I had to use a DIY method as follows, From memory the fig for setting the belt tension was 16ft lbs new belt, so I used a spring balance with a scale in lbs the type fishermen use, you can check it for acurisy by weighing a bag of sand that you tested the weight on a bathroom scale digital if poss, then weigh the bag with the spring balance and see if its the same, the way I did it, Get a 1/2in T-bar with a handle over 12" long or make it over 12" inch long with a tube ext, fit a loop on the bar at 12" from the ctr of the 1/2 square and hook the spring balance on to it at the 12" loop I used 2 cable ties, with the tool on the belt tensioner and with a 90deg pull of 16ft lbs you should get the same result as doing it with a torque wrench set to 16ft lbs. Nick.

Just get a pub co2 bottle lasts for years, my mig is 130amp and if I had to buy another it would be at least 150amp more if possible. Nick.

I have a std exh sys with my 200di and have used my old 2.25D exh manifold as per the web site below, http://www.glencoyne.co.uk/200di.htm And more info here, http://www.landrover-uk.net/forum/showthread.php?t=156187 Nick.

I think if I where doing serious towing like you snagger I would stick with the o/d, saying that when I get around to fitting the disco diff I will leave the o/d in place just in case I dont like running without it, Since fitting the 200di I have noticed that my normally quite o/d is starting to get a bit more noisy so I am wondering if the extra power running through it is taking its toll. Nick.