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elbekko

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Everything posted by elbekko

  1. If you weld on a bolt, I'd suggest replacing the crank seal (if that's not the reason you're digging that deep in the first place ). The rest shouldn't really be phased by it.
  2. Extract it up with WinRAR or 7-zip, run RAVE.exe.
  3. Get the RAVE, it's all in there.
  4. The Thor injectors expect 3.2ish bar (IIRC). The fuel rail has no pressure regulator, it's internal to the pump.
  5. Different flywheel (and different crank sensor), different timing gear/chain and cam sensor. Different inlet (also the bottom of it). Those should be the main differences off the top of my head.
  6. I'd go for plate gussets, they don't have to be very thick just in the right place. I don't think tube is necessary.
  7. Check if it's actually enabled in the BeCM. Can you hear the motor turning, or does it just do nothing at all?
  8. Could be related, bad running could cause overheating, or overheating could cause bad running. Look at the plugs, do a pressure test with the plugs out, and I guess you'll find out. Is it smoking, is there oil in the water or water in the oil?
  9. Probably a daft question, but how sure are you about your lambda's after all that RTV? I'd try turning off lamba adaptivity and going for a drive...
  10. And I thought I paid F all for mine Nice score!
  11. I don't see a chance in hell that the crossmember came out without taking a chunk of the chassis with it, unless there weren't any bolts in it...
  12. Hrmm. Do you really need the peak and hold board? From the ExtraEFI site: Would just adding a resistor in front of each LPG injector work? Or would that be too easy?
  13. I'd be interested in how easy it is to make MS drive LPG injectors. I've read about the impedance problems, LPG injectors are low impedance (1.9 Ohm) and petrol injectors are high impedance (9 Ohm)? How exactly is this a problem for MS, and can it maybe be solved easily? It would be absolutely brilliant to have the autotune capabilities of MS for LPG.
  14. It's a two-stage switch. First stage just flashes the indicators, second stage cuts fuel. Resetting is done by cycling the ignition 3 times.
  15. If you mean the centre of the dash, there's a screw on the left behind the instrument cluster bezel. Utterly retarded design if you ask me, but there it is...
  16. They may be noticeable on the brake test though, at least over here it's a two-roller that just turns the wheels opposite ways so they don't wreck the centre diff. Not sure how that'd work with a true-trac.
  17. You mention yellow a maximum of one winch. Does this mean the course can be completed without a winch?
  18. You're not allowed to change anything in the driveline, including a locker. The chance that they notice a locker has been fitted is very slim though ("What's that line?" "Axle breather" "Oh ok.").
  19. They are... it's all a big lottery, following the rules will get you as much hassle as not following them, so nobody bothers anymore... I just remember the chassis bit from a forum post a while ago, probably more related to chassis repairs than mods, but it should still apply.
  20. IIRC in Belgium you're not allowed to do anything to the chassis between the wheels, the rest is more or less fair game.
  21. Best wishes Jason, a very thought-provoking post.
  22. I'd have told them to get someone on the phone that understands what a coordinate is... They should be happy you're giving them coordinates, that way at least they don't end up in the wrong town or something.
  23. Wrong, from 87 or so ish they all had the BW, including my softdash with R380. Fitting an LT230 is easy as bolting it in though, so I don't see why that should stop you.
  24. Did you reconnect the crank sensor if you disconnected it (you probably did, IIRC it's mounted to the LHS head)?
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