MrKev

If you think All Wheel Driver is bad, I'll show you a copy of 'BMFA News' at some point...

Someone wrote some excellent reports from the Challenger series, which featured in AWD. I think this was what was used: http://www.manracing.co.uk/blog/wordpress/?p=36, written by Grim Kev

read this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Load_dump

Funny, I've been thinking of trying to do the same thing. I'll watch this thread with interest! I've been waiting to 'happen across' a defender unit (or two) and then experiemnt. Kevin

I'm going. I guess if I thought about it, I could wear my Forum embroidered top... Kev

indeed, there's even a circuit diagram in the handbook: http://www.warn.com/truck/winches/src/images/58/36138-D4.pdf Connecting +ve battery to the A terminal and the -ve to the case will likely result in a hot winch motor that doesn't go round at all, for a while at least, inevitably followed by lump of metal which was formerly identified as a winch motor. Kevin

That doesn't sound right... My understanding is: To test the motor: +ve goes to either F1 or F2 depending on which way you want it to run, connect the other terminal to A with a spare jump lead, and the case to the -ve on the battery. Kevin

I failed to take all that in, but it looks like a usefully summary worthy of tech archiving for future reference! Kev

If my understanding is correct, RTC3511 was superseded by FTC4785 when they changed from oil lubricated bearings to greased ones. However, a quick search on the net finds a number of hits that suggest the RTC3511 seal is a better seal... What I can say for sure is that I've got RTC3511 in the ones I've replaced, and the oil and grease is still on the inside, where it belongs. Can anyone confirm or deny this? Kev

RTC3511 is the seal that fits inside the back of the hub, and keeps the grease in. If you've got EP90 drippping down the brake disc, there's another seal inside the stub axle that stops the EP90 getting into the hub, where the grease should be. I understand some people omit to fit this to allow the axle oil to provide lubrication to the wheel bearings, but if you've not done this, and you're sure it's EP90 that's on that disc, then I think you might be looking at replacing two seals, plus probably the bearings..? Kev

This book is a very useful read: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Amateurs-Lathe-Lawrence-H-Sparey/dp/0852422881 L.H. Sparey - The Amateurs Lathe

... or 'how to change the bulbs' on the rear light cluster on a discovery....

Not specifically a winch motor, but I've mended other motors in this way before, but I've had to use silver solder due to the heat generated inside the motor.

very good. Looking forward to the other parts...

No need. All sounds sensible. Just a little worried when you said 'crossover', as I interpret that as swapping + and - wires over.... Kev

Sorry, but when you say 'crossover' what do you mean exactly?

Hi A friend has had his Superwinch EPi9 stolen in the last 24 hrs from the Reading area. If you hear of anything suspicious, please let us or the police know. It did have a plasma rope fitted, but I guess it could be in any state by now... You can contact him if needed from this link: http://www.lines-associates.com/tv4x4/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1838 Kev

Except those towbars are not type approved, so cannot legally be used for towing on a post whichever-date-in-1998 vehicle. Saying that, I use one on my D1, and I think they're great. Kev

No probs - glad you found it useful. It's these sort of niggly things that seem to take up the most time, and create the most frustration until they're fixed! For info, if desparate you could whip them out, and short the contacts with a bent paper clip until the seat is where you want it. Trial and error would quickly find the right places to link for each motion. I also have found that sometimes exerting a little pressure in additional directions may just impart enough contact force to make the seat move - worth taking the little switch cover off for this and moving the little rod with your fingers, then giving it a little wiggle. Kev

Try this: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=47674

Yeah, that map is a bit broke..

They don't seem to mind clothes pegs / bulldog clips. My missus was shown how to fit them to the mud guards on her truck when she did her 'C' and the examiners were fine with it. Kev

The closer you are following the vehicle in front, the less damage will be done if you hit, as the difference between your speeds will be smaller. Probably the worst distance to be is halfway between touching the vehicle in front and being just far enough behind that in emergency breaking you come to a complete stop just touching - that way you will have hit the vehicle in front with the greatest speed difference between yourself and it. Kev

Cool. I like the horse wash at the end - which ford was it? @LiamC - the X-Eng one is quite nice as it is very 'undo-able' I have Ross' big splish from another angle: Kev

As far as I am aware, you need proof of purchase, but this needn't be a receipt. This could be a credit card statement, or possibly even a witness - a friend? Kev