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As western says use the Ref 60550 item from VWP Good for twin XP motor'd gigglepin on a straight pull that snapped a new 11mm Plasma role (noting that triple lining a rope depending on circumstances will actually reduce the load on the motor thus it will draw less power) As for getting a fuse for the battery to switch, My old vehicle had a winch installed for previous owner by an auto electrician. They had put in a bus bar with 4 x 80A auto resetting circuit breakers, this was not enough for the power the X9 winch could draw) You could use a 500Amp MegaFuse ebay But most people don't bother with a fuse as a lot of cars especially older ones don't have fuses on the main battery cable.

They come under the ram pipes section http://www.numcat.ru...ver/p/32/45655/ On my disco 3.9 only one was blanked off, one had a small plastic pipe on it going to something in the centre (was cut when the body was removed, so don't know what it goes to) And the rear one that is the right size for a rubber vacuum hose for the servo. So I think you need item 8 on the linked page (RTC5907)

ECU not dead, had it running and connecting to the Laptop but don't know what I did to get it running All I did was put the battery on charge for a short while because I had been turning it on the starter for a bit (but it did not take much charging) I did get a log of it running, but had to shut it off due to a water leak as it got up to temperature. I then tried reconnecting to the ecu without starting it and now at startup Megatune give a warning about code from controller not matching file it varies what the controller output is usually it is missing some of the word "extra" I'm confused, I must have a doggy connection but I don't know where. I've probed the D connector on the ECU and the resistance to 4 earths is about 0.2 Ohm and the power in is 12.7v. My thinking is that the d connect is not making contact with the ecu very will I've checked the pins are all straight. Any Ideas?

I just cannot seem to get any life from the ECU, it has 12.70v power to it and good earth connections, but I cannot get it to run or even connect to a PC It's a Megasquirt V8 MS S’nE MS1 V3 with 029V kit from Nige and I've had it running in the past (a few short test fires) The PCs I've tried, one had connected to it in the past using a prolific USB dongle and the other has a physical serial port. I'm wondering if there is anybody near Watford that has a sim to check out the ECU this weekend as I'm supposed to compete in this vehicle next weekend. Or has somebody with experience and time to come over and help diagnose the problem. Beer tokens available. Thanks

Having looked at a lot of exhaust manifolds recent, they were all cast manifolds, so definitely a custom job.

You talked about having the fuel pump wired up directly, but what have you done for the Lambda sensors as they are also powered from the fuel pump relay (or are you not running any by changing the tune resistor?) Do you know the ECU is good?

Web site still running linky but dealer network page out of date. I heard that they sold the rights for Toyota diffs to somebody else.

I thought that they were hugely more expensive and did not really have a dealer network (4 dealers world wide including scorpion racing as the only UK one)

I might have to be in Class 1 as I might not have had time to get MOT by the first event ( but that will guarantee me at least a third place finish in class and trophy unless JST enters )

I've been using a Sealey-3003CXQ for a couple of years, it's great. I picked mine up for about £80 3 Tonne and it has quick lift and a 504mm max lift height (good for 38" tyres) and a larger lifting pad than some other jacks

Thanks for the advice but it is the spring plunger limiting mechanism that is causing the jam. Once jammed you can remove the air piston and it will still be jammed, so no amount of greasing the seals on the air piston will solve this problem. The normal lever and cam mechanism does not lift the sprung plunger enough to come close engaging this limiter. When I say limiter on the spring plunger I mean the very fine lip (we are talking 0.5mm or less) that is part way up the hole the free spool pin moves up and down. Because the change in diameter of the whole is so small that the plunger is jamming in it when pressed hard against it by the air piston (I can also jam it by hand if I remove the spring) The plungers shoulder is nice and square, cannot really tell about how square the lip is, it might be slightly chamfered which is why it is jamming. I've attached a picture of the lip and circled the lip.

I've just tried fitting a TDS Winch air free spool system and it does not reliably work. I've yet to speak to Gigglepin who I bought the winch and free spool kit from as they are not open until Monday but I thought I would try here to see if anybody has got any ideas or knows of a different system. My problems is that about ~ 50% of the time the free spool sticks in the disengaged position. This is because air piston supplied does not have an inbuilt limiter on its upward movement and the 100psi from the arb compressor jams the free spool pin so hard in to it's housing that it sticks and the normal spring does not have the strength to re-engage it. Your thoughts on solutions before I speak to Gigglepin on Monday.

What gets me is that they only talk about issuing a registration number in their guidelines, what they don't talk about in their guideline is how the original vehicle lost it's current registration. It is not as though it is normal for a car to be issued a new registration number every year.

I've used an IP67 box for everything (ECU, EDIS, Power distribution block, fuse holder, relays, etc) with all wires/pipes using glands. It's still a work in progress, as I need to add more wires and tidy it up.

Running it hotter will also give you more cooling capacity as the thermal difference between the air and the water will transfer more heat for the same given amount of time as the water passes through the radiator.

With the right switch and wiring you can set it up to turn on a small 12v buzzer to sound when you turn the fans off for wading, this way you won't forget to turn the fans back on I have done this for mine.

You can usually use wire wool to get most of the tarnish of the wires pulling in one direction only (insulation to stripped end). or you could try using plumbers flux and heating to clean the wire or clean with something mildly acidic e.g some alloy wheel cleaners contain Phosphoric Acid which should clean the metal

With that controller I believe that the probe is a termocouple and you don't need / cannot use that controller if you are using an x-fan switch. My setup is a bit complicated as it is a twin fan setup with and override switch and fan on lights. I assume you are only using a single fan and don't want an override switch or wading cutoff switch and you want to use the boost function (one hitting the first temperature the fan will come on normal speed, if that is not enough then it goes to high speed if it reaches the second temperature) ? The way I would do it would be:- Power from battery via a 40A midi fuse (I find blade fuses get a bit hot when carrying high current, so I increase the fuse size) using 4.5mm^2 (42A) wire to 2 40A relays Then a link wire from each relay main power to one of the coil contact (as this is going to be earth switched) Then 2 wires from the other coil input of the relays to the 2 output connects on the x-fan ( you need to get the low output of the x-fan switch matched to the relay with the Grey wire) The grey fan wire to one relay and the brown to the other. From the common x-fan switch to earth. Black from fan to Earth I knocked up a diagram below.

When you mean the kenlowe wiring stuff do you mean their adjustable electronic thermostat or their old manual thermostat or bare fan? and which fan is it? does it have to their "jet boost" i.e. three wires from the fan?

Put some bigger wheels on you P38, that will lift the ride height but don't weld it.

My Strut was half of a set of these as you don't need really need both that I got off a friend.

Remember to do it properly you might need some tools you might not have. These are a spring balance to set the swivel pin pre load and a dial gauge to set the hub end float.

I have a single gas strut and that handles fully chequer plate and cargo net easily and just about handles adding 3 tree strops in to the cargo net. Plus you could use 2 gas struts (one each side) for extra lifting power. Or I picked up a ALR6225 for about £9 from Bearmach (see linky)

There is always a range from "it just fell off" to "a thermo nuclear explosion is not going to shift it" I've had one with a Hydraulic puller + heat + shock load (hitting it with big hammer) did not shift it just broke the puller arm, but cutting always works. PS remember to copper slip the new arm (just in case you have to remove it again).

I thought that Adwest were also the supplier for Land Rover.