zardos

Erm most solenoids used are not designed for 500Amps constant use. For example the normal DC88 allbright is designed for only 100A at 100% duty cycle (but it can disconnect an 800A fault load) This puts it on par with the smaller winch isolators, so it is better to use the bigger 250A 100% duty cycle ones as they are rated to 2500A for very short periods.

But what if the isolators were welded in the closed position would you not need isolators for the isolators

Yes I paid £8.49 + vat for 5l of brake cleaner vs £6.99 for 500ml from Halfords

Most cheapy sprayers die quickly and the proper bottles are not cheap (cheapest I have found is £10.97 + vat http://www.arco.co.uk/products/3222795/147528/Master+Hand-held+Sprayer)

To answer my own question the digidash works fine from the IDM signal from the EDIS

:D :D :D :D :D And a huge thank you to HFH for the complete kit and everybody who post the to Mega Thread (plus many other Megasquirt sites) After pumping up the fuel from tank she fired first time. No Lucas service part number 530433 It has taken many hours of wiring and plumbing (as the vehicle did not have a single wire on it or any plumbing when I started the project) I will be doing a full write up post with pictures at some point in the future. Thanks again Nige

And out is on the side of the box after it has done it's work and the hottest, in is on the bottom of the box and is just a return to sump. So it should not be very high pressure.

My Auto box is in a 1996 3.9 V8 discovery, if that helps. And Think Auto said that AGP socketless was OK for gearbox oil and is rated to 250psi and 150C with push fit and no jubilee clip.

There are two sizes as they have a male to male reducer (the standard pipe connection is larger than the thread into the box) on them. From measuring the reducer you will either need a m20 fine (1.5) female connection to go on the reducer or if you do as I did and replace the reducer then you will need a M16 fine (1.5) male. I replaced the reducers to convert them in to -8JIC connectors. I just took the reducers to ThinkAuto and had them match it. Edit Found offline copy of PDF (as their web site seem broken) and I bought 2 MMS2-8-65 -8JIC x M16x1.5 to replace the reducers

Have you checked the pin for a lip? Wear might have put a lip on the end of the pin that goes in to the rack and it might be catching and not allowing the pin to easily spring out. Or Bent cross pin? as the pin that goes in to the rack is pushed out by this cross pin (or worn slope that does the pushing?)

Sorry added another link after with something that looks smaller.

Ebay or Another

I would say solar power might be much better, might only give you 0.5Amp from a cheapy setup but it will do that for at least 10+ hours for free.

Hmmm the tool could do with a option to set the step increments, or adapt it's scaling for certain combinations. e.g. My Low with underdrive gives:- Which does not show first or second gear as they are both below 10mph

Has anybody tried drive an ETB Digidash 2(http://www.etbinstruments.com/DD2_lite.htm) Rev counter off the IDM signal from the EDIS (as suggest by megamanual)? or do I need to build the circuit suggested as digidash2 is normally driven of the -ve of the coil or ecu signal.

My 90 has a heated set on the bonnet angle, but did not work very well once I put the Roll cage bar in the way.

Down sides of no Lambda is that the fuelling might not be optimal in some conditions, thus a probably a slight loss in power and increase in fuel consumption, but this is marginal. DVLA won't tell you anything about emissions, it's only when the MOT tester or his computer to says what type of test you need (cat or non cat) will you really find out. The MOT tester's manual (http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_730.htm) says "Vehicles Fitted with a different engine Test according to which is older, engine or vehicle. e.g. A 1995 car fitted with a 1991 engine (of whatever make), test to 1991 standards for emission purposes. Note: The onus is on the vehicle presenter to prove engine age." So if your car or you can prove the engine age is before 1st August 1992 then you can have a non cat test, if both are newer then you will need cats for the MOT. If you need cats, then you need Lambda's PS I have a 3.9 with no cats or lambda sensors in a 90 that was registered before 1st August 1992 so I can get away with no cats.

The tune resistors changes the ecu behaviour for a car with cats, the resistor is circled in below picture. See http://www.v8engines.com/faq-inj.htm#tuneresistor for more details. But if you have cats, then you need lambda as cats don't like being passed un burnt fuel and the lambdas allow the ecu to adjust fuelling. So you can have the sensors without the cats but you might have problems at MOT time on emissions without the cats. And yes the Lambdas are before the cats in the pipe.

True you can do this but depending on the age of the engine and on what you do / Tell the DVLA about then the emission level might be set for a engine with cats.

Answered in child'ish fashion linky

From a quick measure of the ones I took out of my disco 1 v8 would say M12 x 1.5 but I don't have a M12 fine nut to double check that.

Having just walked from Haslemere to and around the devil's punch bowl. I can say that currently boat 503 on the pdf map has a TRO with width restriction of 1500mm and there is a metal gate and posts forming the 1500mm gap where it joins boat 21A but the gate was open allowing wider vehicles through. There is no sign of any changes on BOAT 500 yet, this is still open (no signs or barriers at the Hindhead end or where it rejoins the old A3 lower down the hill. There was also 2 normal cars down it at Gibbert Hill. There was a temporary TRO on new and old bit of road that joins the old A3 to to boat 501 (the old bit from the small car park there was closed off, the new bit had freshly laid tarmac on it and I did see a motor biker use it). I did not read and details on the length of this TRO so it might be over with now for the new road as the surface has been laid on the new joining bit.

You don't need an app, just download a POI database file for lpg stations, there are many available on the web for TomTom,etc and convert to Nokia format then load on to your phone. The will then appear on Nokia maps, with full satnat'ing options, etc.

The first one is the purge control value (which might not be fitted on your engine as it was for emissions control in some countries) and is not required unless you have and want to run the with the charcoal canister. Connects to item 7 in the below pic, but my 1996 Disco 1 V8 has the wire but not valve or canister. Pic 2 are the earths and go on to a stud on the back of the engine block on the odd number cyclinder side, just below the rocker cover join. Last is the aircon clutch connector circled below

It's not necessary for an ammeter to have large cables as long as you get the right type. There are two options 1. Remote shunt ammeter where most of the current goes through a low value large wattage resistor situated remotely from the gauge and the rest through the gauge which is in parallel to the shunt, as long as you know the ratio between the resistance of the shunt and the gauge then the gauge can be scaled accordingly. Note that an ammeter using a shunt will cause a small voltage drop. 2. A hall effect ammeter which has not direct connection to the wire you are measuring the current in, but has a coil around it. He is a link to build you own linky (but as you say you are useless with wiring it might be beyond you) Or you could get one of these linky