zardos

Warn supply them with AWG 2 which is about 33.6mm^2 But this is what gets me, they state the motor can draw up to 450Amps 35mm^2 is generally only rated to around 240Amps constant current. OK so you won't be using maximum current all the time and the under spec'd wire will be OK for a short period of time before it gets too hot and melts the insulation and then the wire. But how long it is OK for is too difficult to calculate (too many variables) All I can say is 70mm^2 does get warm under heavy winching. So to repeat LandyManLuke, depends on what you use it for, most people in winch challenges go for 70mm^2

There are many ways to wire up a second alternator depending on battery configuration i.e. 2 separate batteries or just one bank, separate 24v system, but the basics is:- B+ terminal is connected to battery (or isolator) best to run a second cable and not just connect it to other alternator b+ D+ is connected to one side of an additional warning light (the 24v battery light on a defender dash is a suitable location with a correct 12v bulb, or any other light) The other side of the additional warning light goes to a 12v ignition switched source

In some circumstances a locker will put less load on the shafts/cv's than a standard diff. On a standard diff if you loose traction on a wheel when it bounces in the air, it will spin up faster and there will be a greater shock load when it lands and gets grip than if the axle was locked with a locker because the other wheel with traction would prevent it from spinning up so much.

Ashcroft's http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewCat&catId=89

For vehicles manufacturer after 1st August 1998 can only have type approved towbars fitted (94/20/EC) So you would have to contact your towbar's manufacturer to see if gained approval with a spacer and how big the spacer could be. My guess that it would not be approved with a spacer as type approved towbars are usually specially designed for a vehicle and should not normally require a spacer.

Ebay is cheaper than Maplins, I used http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-remote-control-switch-2-keyfobs-6A-max-POPULAR-/200684787220?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2eb9bed614 as a remote switch.

Having built up the toys on my 90 over 6years of competition, I have to say that a rear lockers was the best advancement. My Sig pic shows me seriously cross axled (on 2 wheels on the ground and the other 2 at full articulation and not touching) but I still drove out due to a rear locker

Best to speak to Gwyn Lewis as they do twin alternator mounts like (http://www.gwynlewis....uk/page80.html) Though this only shows the 300tdi version, he also does V8 (I have one) and 200 tdi versions I believe.

Probably easier/cheaper/quicker to go to your nearest hydraulic place and get some custom pipes made with the right ends.

Any pictures from the event?

Personally I would not run 70mmSq2 un-fused cables down the chassis without extra protection. I would always run them in un-split convoluted tube and then P clip or cleat or use the designed chassis mounts like http://www.polevolt....__Reducers.html

That's what I did but most come from UK sellers (only 2 from US sellers) as coming from the us was hinted at easier.

Ebay US has http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-4-Drive-6-Point-Impact-Socket-52mm-SUN452M-/190556026162?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr&hash=item2c5e063532

I bought http://www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-4884-Impact-Deep-52mm/dp/B0039316N0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1323246390&sr=8-1 and it works well

All wiring joints were soldered, the vehicle has been in a dry garage for the 1.5 months. If the ECU is just powered and earth'd should you be able to connect to it via serial cable?

I was built for EDIS and running EDIS supplied by Nige. And it was running fine 1.5 months ago with no changes made to the setup/wiring.

I have a Megasquirt Kit from Nige (MS1 SnE 029v) for my 3.9 Serp Engine that was previously running fine on default map Nige put on it and with the ECU connecting to my laptop via serial cable. Working on other vehicles has got in the way for a while and it has been about 1.5 months since I had run the engine. I came to start it again today and it turns over fine but no hint of firing. I tried to connect Megatune to it and cannot get it connect. When the ignition is tuned on the D14 LED flashes are few times then starts to flicker and the fuel pump relay is not activated. The battery voltage is good and there is power to the ECU Since starting it last all I have done is partially drain the engine coolant and removed the rear rad to physically fit some electric fans and refit the rad and fill up with coolant (not the fans are not wired up yet). I did not think that the D14 LED should flicker in that way until the engine was running (as it should be Spark A) Any suggestions on what to look at next?

Or you could MegaSquirt it, then it is totally tunable

I believe that Catalytic converters were first required in the America, so for NAS spec vehicles I would expect that the removal of the Tune resistor was to only make it capable of running a Catalytic converter map. The Tune resistor is a method of selecting a map (14 cux can hold up to 5 maps), so it all depends on what is the default map is and the default map might have been different on a NAS vehicle to a non NAS vehicle. I think that the general consensus is that if it has a tune resistor, then put the right one in for cats I don't know if the emission who have been stricter for America over Europe at that time.

How about a very long length of chain to go through all the wheels and around the chassis with a big padlock (would also help secure it from the whole vehicle being taken)

You might want to check the ECU part number as there are a variety of different fuel maps and the one you have might not have a map that is good enough to pass the emissions test you want even with Cats. (update looking at http://darnone.com/atp/catalogue/landrover.html there is only one ecu for you vehicle) If you need to add the lambda sensor wires all the way to the ecu plug then http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_14CUX gives a listing of the terminal numbers. The three wires on the lambda sensor are earth heater power and sense. The heater positive wire (should be white/orange) goes to the 87a contact on the fuel pump relay and the earth wire (black) seem to go to the ecu for earth switching by the ecu, but Haynes manual shows it as going directly to earth (which would cause the heater to be on constantly?) Blue sense wire to pins 23/24 on the ecu Note that NAS spec vehicles don't have a tune resistor

Sounds about right, but if your loom does not have the two white round connectors, then it could be difficult (each connector has 3 wires to it) The connectors are around the back of the engine over the gearbox bell housing You could of course replace the whole loom with one designed for cats but I seem to remember the looms are not cheap even second hand (around £100 second hand)

Personally I would not bother replacing the piston and seals in the calliper as I believe it can be a pain in the a**e to get right and not damage the seals. If you really want to do it it might be easier and safer to replace the whole calliper and not much more money. e.g. depending on exactly the part number you need a pair of brake callipers cost around £90, a seal kit and standard pistons and bleed nipple could cost you around £30 or you could go for stainless pistons for around £95 The time difference between swapping the brake calliper or just the pistons and seals in high. If you are going to change the bearings, you might want to go the whole hog and change the bearing races as well, but these can be a pain to drift/ press out from the hub.

A quick list from the top of my head. Jack up vehicle and take wheel off remove calliper (you don't have to disconnect the brake pipe just secure it out of the way with cable ties), you might need a 12 sided socket for this and a breaker bar (as they can be tight) Remove drive flange Fold back lock washer and remove hub nut Remove disc and hub from the stub axle catching the wheel bearings On the back of the hub undo the bolts holding the disc to the hub (tip - lay wheel on the ground and re bolt the hub to it to make it easier to stop the whole thing turning), this will split the disc off the hub. Note that once the bolts are removed the disc still might be on very tight to the hub and need hitting with large hammer or pressed out. Clean up, bolt back together in reverse order, re pack wheel bearings (might be worth replacing the bearings and oil seal as you are in there), torque everything up and set the wheel bearing end float (might not be required on later bearing) I think it should take about 1 hour per wheel depending on how difficult it is to split the disc from the hub.

You could try a point to point Wifi Solution like http://www.wifigear.co.uk/deliberant-5ghz-18dbm-mimo-ptp-kit good for 2 - 20 Km or You could try a ethernet laser bridge like http://www.wifigear.co.uk/geodesy-pico-next-laser-link-100mbps-20-350-meters But not cheap