FridgeFreezer

200TDi disco, same as mine.

It depends on your setup - if the rad is in good nick and the engine doesn't kick out too much heat / get easily upset then it might be fine. Or, it might not... Also depends on if you'll be seeing mud or not, over here an open-cored rad is very much a requirement to prevent blockage, if you're just driving dusty tracks & crawlin' up nice clean rocks then you might get away with something more car-like and efficient. If you remove all the cowling from the back of the radiator panel you can fit a much bigger rad in there - trawling the scrapyard with a tape measure is one option, or buying something off-the-shelf / having one custom-made is another.

I would look at eBay / sodbury, LPG tanks come up all the time for not much money.

As Dan said, why would you want to have your vehicle featured by a bunch of idiots who will get stuff wrong, in a magazine you don't like/read?

Thanks, I'm having flashbacks to the weekend now still got the sun-tan (don't wear a t-shirt, it's a bad idea) as Jez says, a leather smock or just something flame-retardant to put over your delicate areas is a good thing. Also something to support your head if you're trying to do it laying under the vehicle (hint: fitting portals means you can sit up instead ) Actually the bits I did upside-down turned out nice, it's the bits I couldn't get the torch into / see into that were the PITFA.

With a ~500kg engine crane I'd say it's possible, with a home-made tripod I wouldn't like to commit - no offence but it very much depends on your fabrication. I would say do it in two bites - engine first, transmission second. Gives you an excuse to change the clutch while you're at it.

I think Zuz's tank is rather small

Errr, have you actually read this thread, or any of this forum? As Steve said, you're so wide of the mark you could get a job writing tech articles for TOR

I bought a load from paddocks, they're not expensive.

Never heard that one, surely the corrosion inhibitors in anti-freeze stop that sort of thing? I've not had a rad fail due to gunk inside it, usually due to damage from outside.

The problem with CO2 is it blows away - so you put the thing out, then it re-lights, then you put it out again... etc. I had this enjoyable discovery using a 10Kg CO2 in anger on a burning bin full of oily rags, used 2kg on the first attempt, 3kg on the second and the remaining 5kg on the 3rd then dragged it outside still very much alight and emptied a kettle full of water onto it which did the trick. As has been said, it doesn't take the heat out like AFFF or water.

I think it's ali - however a factor for me was "what's easier to repair in the field?", and copper won that one!

I'll keep my coat on then

Will the next X-Eng product be the X-tinguisher? My coat? Why thank you...

People don't seem to mark the in/out on remotes, the only one with any indication is my current Mocal spin-on one, which is actually easy to work out for yourself anyway Anyway, to confirm the direction of flow through the filter, here's a picture from Fram.

Why stick to Land Rover axles? There are quite a few filthy heretics out there using non-LR axles to great effect these days. Allegedly

Spacers are a bit of a bodge way round IMHO. I'm sure someone who knows about the coily things will be along in a minute to offer advice on what to buy - don't buy orange, that's all I knows!

You'll need ignition switched live, which should be WHITE. If you use a permanent +12v feed it will flatten your battery, you'd be surprised how much current some automotive voltmeters draw

On the bright side... time for a new project?

Al - if you can be bothered to upload it I can host it on my webspace, I'll PM you an FTP password if you want?

Gutted, but glad you're OK Si. Any idea what caused it?

I can't see the point of fitting a 2.8TGV to a non-LR box when you could buy an LS1 and bolt it to a non-lr box, have much more power and similar MPG. If you're swapping transmissions then there are so many better, cheaper, and easier to look after engines out there - the world is your lobster The only reason to buy a TGV as far as I can see is that you want more power, diesel, and to keep LR transmission however unwise that may be.

If they do, I haven't heard of it - but if mine breaks I think I have a new item on my shopping list, thanks!

Having had a later LT230 and an early one next to each other it's clear the later ones were mass produced and engineered down to a price, not that they're bad, just that the early one (1.003:1) had a few nicer made bits - like a big intermediate shaft with needle roller bearings and oilways, and IIRC more scope for oil to get into the centre diff too. I have no tech to back up this opinion, so I could be talking utter rubbish

He didn't need any more encouragement