FridgeFreezer

Yes, five of them the local tyre guys hate me now, the young lad who works there his face drops every time I turn up

It's the future

I'm pretty sure Keith Banyard's Dakar truck runs XZL's, I doubt they are keen on changing tyres in the desert on that thing. I like my XZL's. Note the "900x16" size (255/100R16) is actually bigger than a 9.00x16 by an inch or more making them ~37".

Certain TDi auto bits are rare and expensive, they're flavour of the month with the challenge boys at the moment so fetch good money - and you can't join a TDi to a V8 auto box (well, you can, but you need the aforementioned expensive bits). Bolting a clutch m/c on to yours is easy, they just have a hole with a blanking plate on the bulkhead. As for engine & gbox mounts lining up, I'm not sure. Would the lump in question include all the ancillaries and other junk you need to plumb a TDi in? Do you need a TDi? Do you do enough miles to warrant the expense versus a bit of fuel saving?

TDi auto = £££ since auto boxes are flavour of the month at the moment.

Is this not into the territory of light commercial truck tyres?

landybehr - what you touched was static electricity, I forget the actual numbers but below 1000v you can't even feel it. The same is not true for even very low current electricity, it only needs 60mA to do damage. Vaseline is what's used in telecomms "bean" connectors and they're used to connect up to 120v in damp atmospheres with pretty good reliability.

eBay is not a bad place to find old industrial stuff, you really want to see it working if possible before buying. Things do turn up in freeads too.

They're not adjustable (although you can shim them) but Jez's (dollythelw) trailing arms come highly recommended, can be straight or cranked.

I thought SWB rims were 5.5" wide and LWB tend to be 6" or 6.5"?

Wonder if one could make an LT230 PTO using a surplus LT230 for parts?

Cheers Ian, I'd like to have a play to see how easy it is - unless LR have a separate conditioner box for it I'm going to have to tune a circuit up to get it working. This could take me a while

An important issue that no-one has addressed yet is the compatibility of the various air types with the Land Rover Spider, putting metric air into some 205's fitted to an S1 might seem like a good idea but can cause disastrous spider malfunction. I'm sure there was a tech bulletin with a cross-reference of air types, spiders, and wheel/tyre/truck combinations for optimum performance. Has anyone got the very rare RAVE manual on laserdisc? I believe this was the only one to feature it as the later editions on CD used the wrong wavelength of light and they couldn't transfer the data across - it kept falling through the holes.

That reminds me, I spied this on eBlag the other day, although I think they have the description wrong as it wouldn't fit any LT230 I've seen. I think it's for the LT95 4-speed RR box.

All LR transmissions seem to get hot, I suppose you could stick some sexercisey oil in or fit a finned inspection cover a-la rocky mountain (I know they did series ones, not sure if they do LT230?) MOD LT77's/R380's had oil coolers, I think you can just take the oil pump bypass piece off and thread in hydraulic adapters as the genuine setup is apparently very pricey. As for cooling the LT230, you could look at an electric oil pump and cooler if you're that bothered.

I want to add knock sensing on the 109 to help with tuning and running on dodgy fuel. The 4.6's had knock sensors as standard but I can't find a part number or more importantly, a price. Also, does anyone know if they had any signal conditioning unit in the line? Some cars do, and if so that would be very useful as it saves me setting up a generic one.

Stonechip is a rubbery coating that dries smooth and can be painted over, underbody guard is more of a waxy goo that doesn't dry.

They can go higher than 100V, I'm sure a mate with a Ford V6 has measured 300V from a crank sensor Dielectric grease is a double-edged sword, if you get it on the contacts it can prevent them from connecting. I'd stick to vaseline or just a squirt of WD40.

Hobby / semi pro welders can be OK-ish if they're bigguns, but having used different types an old industrial unit wins every time - they're made much better and often produce much better results with less hassle. The major difference is that they're more solidly built, have a higher duty cycle, and are designed to be serviced and repaired. I have an old (30 years) NBC and it's great, and thanks to expensive components omitted by newer/cheaper welders it does give a nicer weld. NBC, Butters, ESAB, Murex, Cebora, Miller, Migatronic are a few makes worth looking at. I'm sure someone with higher welding-Fu will be along to break it down a bit more in a minute. If you describe your budget and what you want to do I'm sure people will be able to point you in the right direction. Whatever you do, make sure there's space for some blingin' neons underneath and chrome spinners oh and a GOOD auto-darkening helmet will improve your welding drastically, I don't know anyone who would go back to a non-auto one - and most people I know with Speedglas helmets would rather lose parts of their anatomy than swap for a different one. Me included.

Putting twice as much air in the same space is doubling the pressure, not the volume sorry but that article may be correct in its methods but wrong in terminology. Look at it this way - if you pump a tyre up to 10psi and dunk it in a bath full of water, X amount (volume) of water will come out. Pump it up to 20psi and do the same and a very similar volume will be displaced. The volume has not changed, the pressure has. Since I subscribe to the theory of intellectual osmosis I will now stop reading this thread.

Since I just spent a while writing this out for someone I thought I'd share it - basically "what voltages should I see where": Voltages on each ECU pin will be: 1 - Ground 2 - Ground 3 - No circuit (spare output pin) 4 - No circuit (spare output pin) 5 - No circuit (spare output pin) 6 - No circuit (spare output pin) 7 - Ground 8 - Ground 9 - Ground 10 - Ground 11 - Ground 12 - Ground 13 - Ground 14 - Ground 15 - Ground 16 - Ground 17 - Ground 18 - Ground 19 - Ground 20 - +5v with temperature sensor disconnected, 0-5v with sensor connected 21 - +5v with temperature sensor disconnected, 0-5v with sensor connected 22 - Probably 0v with TPS disconnected, TPS voltage when connected. Usually ~0.3v at closed throttle but not important. 23 - 0v with O2 sensor disconnected or engine off, between 0v and 1v with engine running & sensor connected 24 - 0v with EDIS disconnected, pulsed 12v with EDIS connected & engine turning. Would probably show as ~6V AC on multimeter. 25 - No connection 26 - +5v output to TPS 27 - No connection 28 - +12v ignition switched live into ECU 29 - No connection 30 - No connection required (fast idle wire, not needed) 31 - No connection 32,3,4,5 - 0v with injectors disconnected, +12v with power to the injectors but engine off, pulsed 12v & ground with engine running (ECU grounds injectors to fire) 36 - +5v with engine stopped, pulsed +5v engine running 37 - +12v with ignition on but fuel pump relay off, 0v (ground) when ECU enables fuel pump. EDIS Pins: 1 - Pulsed +12v when EDIS can see the trigger wheel moving 2 - Not used 3 - Pulsed +5v from ECU with engine running 4 - -ve signal from VR sensor 5 - +ve signal from VR sensor 6 - +12v ignition switched live 7 - Ground connection for VR sensor cable shield 8 - +12v when coil pack powered, pulsed ground/12v when firing coil 9 - +12v when coil pack powered, pulsed ground/12v when firing coil 10 - Ground 11 - +12v when coil pack powered, pulsed ground/12v when firing coil 12 - +12v when coil pack powered, pulsed ground/12v when firing coil Coil packs: 1 - +12v when coil pack powered, pulsed ground/12v when firing coil 2 - Switched +12v from the fuel pump relay 3 - +12v when coil pack powered, pulsed ground/12v when firing coil VR Sensor: This would be measured as an AC voltage, quite small when cranking but potentially 100V+ when running.

Just had a call from Mike - the land owner has contacted him and said he has to cancel the event due to the whole Foot & Mouth thing So unfortunately this event is cancelled If you know people who are going please spread the word - we will be doing an e-mailshot too. Mods - can you alter the thread title / make sticky for a couple of days? Ta! Guess I'll see y'all at Seven Sisters next weekend then

...not to mention an LR4x4 Discount!

And yes, the burger van is definite.

Damn, I just got rid of a load of imperial air when I sold the 9.00x16's, the metric air isn't as good you know. Jez - is your air BS or Whitworth? The S1 boys will jump at the chance to buy original Whitworth air as it needs a special compressor and is very hard to come by.