FridgeFreezer

When you say "Fairey drive" do you mean free-wheeling hubs or the transfer box, or the Fairey Overdrive? As Bill said, it is the transfer box (yellow & red knobs) that give you 4x4. Free wheeling hubs (variously made by Fairey, AVM, etc.) disconnect the front driveshafts from the hubs. This means none of the front driveline (prop shaft, diff, half-shafts, UJ's) turns when in 2wd. A Fairey Overdrive raises your gearing. If fitted, it's usually a black knob. A 2nd hand diff should cost you no more than £40 max, any Series one from a Rover axle should do. You need to pull the swivels off the axle to change it, but it's a nuts-n-bolts job - some instant gasket goo is the only other thing you need unless you knacker any nuts trying to undo them. From memory they are 9/16".

We have these at work, variously known as PortaSol and Weller something or other, brilliant little things - the hot air attachment is ideal for heat-shrink, the knife attachment works well and with no tip on it it makes a damn hot blowlamp! RS, Maplins, CPC et al sell them.

Have you changed the oil & filter? A search should yeild FAQ about compression tests, google throws up some good stuff too - this site is particularly good for tech.

Local to me and have been going forever: JASM

Good job I'd finished my beer when I read this - seen it before but still makes me laugh.

You shouldn't need 25l of MT94 as it's only for the main gearbox - a 5l bottle should do you for two fills IIRC. EP90 is the stuff you tend to get through in volume (or at least I do) as it's in lots of places, and tends to get replaced when you do maintenance / off-roading. As I said, LR dealers / parts suppliers and Ashcrofts & Difflock sell MTF94.

www.flyingspanners.net Click "Gallery" then click "Video" Or just click here!

Something tells me it's not gonna be as lucrative as my current employment - but maybe I'll e-mail them anyway for the hell of it! Mind you, they'd have to pay me danger money for going to croydon

Take out good insurance and hope - if someone wants it they'll take it no matter how locked it is. There's not much you can't spirit away with a low-loader and long-reach hiab IMHO those anti-theft devices take up more of your time fitting/enabling/disabling/undoing them than they do for the thieving scum to get round.

Southern Exhaust Supplies in Fareham (by the train station) sold me loads of bits. I found it can be worth taking a wander up their "cheap sh... systems" aisle as some of the stuff you can buy for £25 has more bends and twists than you could buy for twice the money separately. BTW I have 2m of 3" pipe here I didn't use if you want some.

Given the amount of electrickery in them an LPG install will either be a hell of a lash-up or a highly cunning and sophisticated piece of integration. Having seen the work of a few LPG installers I know which one I would expect

The car market is very slow at the mo - took my uncle ages to shift his very tidy BMW recently.

I use Comma oils from the motor factors - price is reasonable, and I change it regularly. I think this is better than putting expensive oil in and leaving it for ages, especially if you're off-roading and subjecting your vehicle to crud. Same goes for filters - buy reasonably priced ones and change them often. Everything that holds oil should be checked after off-roading, especially where water is involved. Any sign of milkyness means water has got in, and you need to change the oil.

MTF 94 is available from LR dealers and most specialists should have it, motor factors should be able to get it if they haven't got it. 75W/90R - Most people use EP90 (as per axles) in the transfer box. This is just "Gear oil EP90", you can buy it from Halfords or my advice is to buy a big 25L drum of it from the motor factors. Also, a 5L plant sprayer filled with it makes topping up the oils underneath much easier.

I didn't think the drilling for the fuel temperature sensor went all the way into the fuel rail, I thought it was a "dry" fitting (it is on mine). A good way to check what's going on is to fit a clear inline filter in the return from the PRV - this will show you if there is a flow or not. The plenum is usually a bit grimy, the crank case vent blows oil vapour into it, whatever doesn't get sucked in and burnt will stick to the inside. If your sump is full of petrol and oil, then the plenum probably will be too.

Nice work - and welcome!

If it's been stood for two years then cranked for ages before coming to life there could be all sorts, first off: - Plugs are probably coated in s*** now, change them for proper NGK ones. - If the leads were new 2 years ago, change them. - If there are any non-genuine ignition bits, change them. - If the fuel is 2 years old, empty it and run either normal fuel & lots of redex or some BP Ultimate through it to try to un-gunk it. - If it's over-fuelling it's either airflow meter or coolant temp sensor, since you say the AFM is working I'd spend a fiver on a new coolant sensor. THEN if it's still unhappy we can delve into "normal" diagnostics. FWIW I doubt renting a diagnostic doodah is going to help much, the 14CU system is not exactly a supercomputer and it's just as easy to diagnose "by hand".

You've hit the nail on the head there Jim - PPC is a great mag, they did have a brief phase of arslikhan to Dave Walker "Tuning God" but seem to have calmed down now. They feature ideas, tech, "what-if's" and decent "how-to's" from the very practical (stick a K-series in an old MG) to the insane (stick a Merlin in an SD1), all written by people who have done it with their own hands - they have scraped knuckles, they have found out that things don't work or don't fit, they have lost money, they have worked round problems that you would encounter. They don't pay specialists to do stuff for them, or if they do they tell you why, what they did and how you could do it yourself if you had the facilities. Their projects use parts that you can source from a scrapyard if you want to, or one of their advertisers (which is mentioned but not rammed down your throat), and they don't assume you have a fully kitted workshop to hand. The fact the mag (and others like it) is going strong should be some indication that there's a market out there for the amateur tinkerer who has a set of spanners, a hobby-mig, and a garden full of car parts. Why the LR mags can't take a leaf from their book is beyond me - you don't buy a 20-year-old LR to take it to a garage every time something breaks or leaks

You may struggle to get it done for a couple of hundred quid - you would be very lucky to find a TDi that cheap, let alone get it bolted in. You may need a new gearbox to go with it (does anyone know for sure?), so that will be extra - and you can't use a Disco/RR one in a defender without even more work. If you like the truck and want to keep it but get a few more MPG then fitting EFi to the V8, or even buying a complete 3.5 or 3.9 EFi from a range rover is far more in-budget, even then you will struggle to get it done for a couple of hundred quid but at least it's closer. The land rover spec V8 is very low on power compared to the RR EFi units, and a new V8 will at least bolt in with minimal work (you need a high pressure fuel pump, if it's a flapper the wiring isn't too bad, hotwire could be harder but doable). Stretch a bit further and fit MegaSquirt and EDIS and you have a waterproof V8 that runs properly and gets decent MPG.

Could be this kinda thing But as has been said, surely a new rubber seal is the way to go?

Landies and toddlers are no problem, quite a few club members bring their offspring and on the whole they love it. As long as the other half has a sense of humour about them coming home plastered in mud, you're OK!

I've heard tell you can use a thing called "maths" to work out the gear ratios for your setup and thereby decide which would suit you best... ISTR there's even a handy excel spreadsheet in the tech archive that does these "maths" for you.

Depends how good their waiver is, I thought these days the only thing that held any water in court was an acceptance of liability, not a disclaimer/waiver. Although you do have a claim, if they have a very good waiver you may not get anywhere. However, many waivers/disclaimers are not worth the paper they're printed on and are just a bluff to discourage you from claiming. If their marshal damaged your vehicle through poor technique then you do have a basis for some sort of claim. I would ask to see proof that the marshal had had some sort of recovery training such as LANTRA, if they don't have anything to prove he was competent then their case gets weaker. Get a solicitor to write them a letter, if they cack themselves and settle up then you're doing well, if they fight back you have to ask yourself how worthwhile it would be to pursue the matter through the courts. Oh and what does £3k of damage look like on a P38? You could buy another for that...

How so?

Since we're sharing piccies, here's my rad setup (efficiency is improved further by removing it from the kitchen floor and putting it in the vehicle): As you can see, fins and cores are quite widely spaced to let mud through. Fans are from an Audi of some description.