FridgeFreezer

Nope, I'll be in a field in Glastonbury

It must be a rare prototytpe, get it on eBlag quick!

Or tell your friend not to be so bluddy fussy and put the engine at the proper end - it's not like the rest of the vehicle is going to be original now, is it? I can see why the buggy boys have an engine at the back when they make a buggy using a rear-engined car like the beetle, but trying to do the same with a front-engined drivetrain seems like bloody mindedness and more hassle than it could be worth. MogLite's whole engine & box are backwards but then Mog axles rotate backwards so he had it easy

Who cares what it cost or didn't - IMHO it's the idea/engineering that counts, even if it's just so that others can read it and decide NOT to knacker their expensive cutters trying the same thing I don't really care if something has been made for 10p in a shed or CNC machined from unobtanium for a million dollars as long as it contains some sort of original thought or engineering interest.

Got a Laser one and it does the job nicely. I think the fundamental problem here is that your brake pipes were never designed to be a service item, especially if they're steel which is a real money-saving gem when it rusts out and you have no brakes! I did find the Volvo (303) brake unions were good quality (as was everything on the axles) and came undone easily even after 30 years, but then as my mate said "When someone builds a truck with portals, cost is not their primary concern".

Shouldn't cost too much for an LT77 and LT230, just don't get def/RR gearbox as the shifter is all wrong and you can't change them without swapping the whole gearbox tailcasting ask me how I know You'll probably want the 1.222 (RR/Disco) or 1:1 (RR 3-speed) LT230 if you're keeping Series diffs, gives you a decent high range but makes low nice and low even on big tyres. I should be bringing the 109 to the next club meet to show off

Stalled it then the motor caught fire and then the solenoid melted... oh, no, that's different sorts of winch innit I think the overload clutch kicked in and he double-lined it

To cure your wobbly needle stick something like an inline fuel filter in the line - the extra capacity of the filter will smooth out small spikes in the pressure very much like a capacitor in electronics terms. Just make sure it will handle any pressure applied to it!

Go on then, always happy to donate to a good cause especially if I get free stuff with it

Well clever electronics would stop the 3 wheels spinning but you'd have to over-spec the motors so that any one could propel the vehicle on it's own, which would add weight quite considerably. Water and dirt ingress shouldn't be difficult to overcome. One major benefit I can see is there would be no axles or indeed other drivetrain to worry about, you could build a Frog-like vehicle but a lot less complex and more capable. Things like portals of any length you want, all-wheel-steer at any angle and no need for hi/lo/diff lock would all be plus points. However, it would cost rather a lot as that stuff still does. You have a load of batteries to tuck away and unless you're spending NASA money there is no compact solution to holding lots of electrons. Control gear would be beefy, and would need to be reasonably intelligent for any level of off-road performance - read muchos development time. As for eco-friendliness, emissions during running would be lower but you've gotta charge it from somewhere. Also batteries and electronics contain some really nasty stuff so emissions/waste during production and at end-of-life would be considerably higher. I wonder how such a vehicle would stack up against a hydrostatic version of the same thing?

The HBOL says it's Fuse 18 in a RR which is 10A, and I didn't realise I would need to explain why putting a fuse in a circuit is a good idea but basically blown fuse is preferable to car on fire

Jeebus James, 8Mb per picture how many smeggypixies is your camera? any way you could save them as JPEGs (even with 0% compression) as the CR2 format is probably three times the size.

Many of those are indeed correct for the main wiring harness, but with the engine looms LR threw it away and made their own thing up (or used a different standard - the flapper and hotwire colours are different too). Generally the brown = live, white = ignition switched live and black = ground thing holds up anywhere but after that I'd seek out the wiring diagram. I'm pretty sure it's been posted on this forum.

Sounds similar to when you run a Hotwire system with no road speed / gearbox transducer - could be worth a check if it has one (modern stuff seems to have a sensor for everything, and rely on them rather too much ) Is there such thing as a Mondeo Owners' club / forum you could ask?

Yeah the MT's are not really a good idea if you want to drive on-road much, they are noisy and "interesting" at any sort of speed but they are still good VFM for "play" trucks. The AT's are much better, even than the road set of tyres that were on the RR before.

Hurrah, I can drive my V8 109 CSW into London for free! If I could only work out why the hell would I ever want to? Oh and those Phantom plates are about as likely to work as our public transport system - if you can see it with your eyes the cameras can see it, and they can digitally enhance any bits that they can't see. The cameras can read your tax disc from 100yds, a bit of dodgy plastic isn't gonna phase them. At best you're still gonna get a ticket, more likely you're gonna get stopped by the cops and told to buy some normal plates.

Oi Goodwin, why are you not uploading these to the website eh? And where is CosZuki hiding - that FTP proggy has a little animated running doggie when you do it right so maybe it was too technical for him? And a plea on behalf of all Russian women:

Had a set of 205/16's on the RR for about a year now (and about 10k miles) and IMHO they're a bargain, like you say a copy of the BFG pattern but half the price. Good on the road / towing and surprised me off-road how far they'll get a stock RR. Dad has a set of 235/70 MT's on his RR and they've stood up well too.

I have no idea what the wires from the 110 do, the colours suggest the following functions: WHITE/RED - Starter solenoid (+12v when cranking) TWO BROWNS - Permanent +12v live The rest I can't be certain off the top of my head. As for the EFI loom you probably want to check the wiring diagram but the Haynes Book Of Lies says: BROWN - +12v permanent feed WHITE/SLATE - fuel pump relay coil, wire to ignition switched live WHITE/PURPLE - From fuel pump relay to fuel pump VIA A FUSE (10A should be plenty) BLACK/YELLOW - EFI warning light on dashboard, you can leave this disconnected YELLOW - From road speed transducer ORANGE/BLACK - To auto box neutral switch (I guess this is the start inhibit?) the wire is grounded by the switch but I dunno if that's "ground it to make it work" or "ground it to stop it working" PURPLE/YELLOW - To heated screen, you can probably leave this disconnected although it would serve as a handy "idle up" input if you have anything engine-driven like a winch or compressor.

You need the descriptively named Fetch if you haven't already got it. On Windows you can type the address straight into an open folder's address bar (login@ftp.whatever) and it works, or add it as a network place, or for something that works in the background and doesn't take ages you can use FileZilla (dunno if there's a Mac one?)

Pictures from Leo & Benny are through now, got to sort them before uploading but here's a couple: Signing up in St. P - it started strange and carried on getting stranger for the next week Camp 2: Left-to-right: Vince, Leo, James/CosZuki/Skirtmonkey, me, Benny, Mariana sat down with Andy (I think) and Paul stood up. The flying dutchmen teamed up with the Madagascar crew for some bridge building: Since CosZuki has most of our photos on his laptop he needs to get his finger out and upload some

There's a site on the A27 very near Chi4x4 in fact, off Vinnetrow Road here. No idea of their contact details though, try google.

That's what Dan is referring to as it's good side - I will have to sift through pics for the full horror. I think it's safe to say anyone with serviceable 3-door bodywork for sale should contact Dan

Dan will thank me for this

Loads of space - stick the 5-speed and LT230 in behind it while you're there, you know it makes sense