FridgeFreezer

I think the point is to avoid electrical damage - whatever happens it's getting dunked but most electronics are happy to be wet as long as they're not powered up when it happens. I guess that's why the MOD do it, just wondering if it was a worthwhile alternator-preservation technique or just an extra compliction - and I think I've got the answer, thanks folks!

Yeah it does - I was planning something more like the ladder bar shown here: http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/susp/axlewrap/ Which to my uninformed eye looks like a very good article on anti-wrap (mainly because it has pictures with arrows on, which I can understand ) This is what I am planning: Just re-reading it I guess the potential catch* with Bill's single-bar forward-facing design is that under acceleration/braking the bar may stay still but the axle can still rotate and squish the springs. If the bar is mounted behind the axle then it would be the opposite to the diagram below (as the 'merkins use spring over axle) and the effect would be the same: So under acceleration induced wrap the bar would be in tension and the front half of the spring would too (if the axle tried to wrap), and under braking induced wrap the opposite would be true. * = Not implying that there IS a catch, just that there could be, I would be the first to admit I am not worthy to touch the hem of Bill's garment in engineering terms.

With most auctions I've ever seen/been to there seems to be the 1% of stock that's a genuine bargain and 99% tat, and a lot of it can be difficult to tell apart unless you really really know your stuff. Car auctions can be a place where lazy dealers offload perfectly good Px's for very cheap just to shift them, or it can be where dodgy dealers offload smart looking lemons to unsuspecting punters looking for a bargain. The lack of any sort of test-drive or decent inspection chances really makes it a minefield. My uncle was a trader for a number of years (and a mechanic for even longer, and a professional repairer & sprayer) and even he is very wary of auctions, there are far less risky ways to find a good car these days.

I heard he was going to make it fully extreme by fitting Rover axles, 35" Simex and a couple of electric kettles 8274's, after all it looks a bit gay at the moment

Thanks guys, gotta love joined-up legislation at least I can get an MOT on it and worry about arches if I get time or when I get back...

The both of you are as bad as each other so neither of you can talk And the answer is "yes" and you know it, you're being an even bigger tart posting up piccies Anyone would think you needed the attention or something

Orange - that's what I thought, but the MOT man reckons it can be "3 inches or something like that... dunno mate" Edited to add: I've now searched three online MOT guides and the VOSA / Direct.gov website about MOT's and nowhere does it mention tyres protruding could it be an SVA thing but not MOT? (In which case woo! )

Aaahh, everyone loves a good TLA. I have actually used the quote from that link to one of our bosses when he asked what I thought was the biggest problem with our new network If you want the ETC off-and-on-able then fit an inline switch after the fuse, if you have a spare position on the dash you could make it look very neat indeed, so hopefully insurance/dealer etc. wouldn't spot it if there was ever a reason for it to be a problem.

I asked the MOT man about this and he can't remember(!) and the online MOT manual makes no mention of it - basically how far are wheels/tyres allowed to protrude past the wheel arch?

To answer your tyre question, 235/70 will fit without hassle, maybe a bit bigger (I know they fit RR but not sure if Discos are better or worse). What makes you go straight for a 3" lift? As said above it gets expensive as you need to extend brake lines, propshafts, correct caster, etc. etc., and a lot of lift kits achieve lift by losing flex, which IMHO is rather pointless. Things like dropping the shock mounts, packing/spacers under springs or fitting very hard springs are all "cheats" that give lift but at best don't improve flex and can often make it worse. Some (many) of the most capable trucks around are running standard ride height or very close to it. Nige's 90 is a prime example of a very well thought out setup using a lot more standard components than you may expect.

Yes, CPC peel the TDZ stickers off and stick CPC ones on

Happy birthday Moose! I can't find an incriminating photo right now - there must be one somewhere...

I remember an article ages ago in one of the comics, possibly the LRO one where they waded wolfs windscreen-deep in the sea, that they shut down the alternator for wading. Now, I'm guessing the ground the sense wire (warning light) to stop it from generating, and therefore nasty things are less likely to occur to the internals. The question is - is it worth it, and am I right in the way to do it?

Remember that what the lambda sensor sees is not always what it seems - V8Bertha's Range was burning oil which clogged the lambda up and showed as running very lean when it wasn't, to give an example. If you have any exhaust leaks it will give a false rich state (air is richer than exhaust gas). What have you tried with the MS - there are various things that could count as "messing" If you're doing ignition soon I have EDIS8's for sale

I think most people just mount a normal coiler PAS box on the chassis and call it job done. A search of this forum will turn up loads of examples / pictures etc.

Does this help? Lifting & Crane AKA Samson

Good point, but then an S1 doesn't "handle" anyway does it? Just because LR can't manage to get something right doesn't mean it's not a good idea Anyone know what Santana do with their springs - even the new ones are parabolic leafers (and the 2.8 TDi goes like stink) so I would guess it's something they've had to look at.

We need photos damnit!

Have you asked Tomcat what the dimensions are of their back end - could save a lot of mucking about if it's available off the shelf.

I was thinking about that last night after reading Bill's post - and wishing I'd read it before starting the 109 since all the chassis bits are available off the shelf from Paddocks and the like for no money it would probably be a good weekend's work to reverse the shackles. My only concern, and I have no idea how real it may be, is that having the shackles on the front may affect the steering / on-road handling (in as much as keeping it pointing in a straight line) as you have the extra "wobble" of a shackle on the leading end of the spring rather than trailing along behind. Bill, can you comment on that at all? I haven't ever paid attention to how other vehicles have their shackles - next time I see a truck with the shackles on the front I'll have to see if there's anything they do to combat this or if it really isn't an issue.

From what I recall of the engine bunfight thread, the prima conversion lets you bolt a Rover 220 lump in - lots of horsepowers, more torque than a V8 and TDi economy to boot. Perhaps that's a sensibly silly alternative to the rather too sensible diseasal lump?

It could be, my parts book shows ETC5793 for the 3.5 or ETC5690 for the 3.9, no indication of the differences though it's a big lump of Ali and it goes on the driver's side.

??? If you have a 10-spline Disco diff and a 10-spline Defender axle one will fit the other without any messing about, they're all the same give or take minor design changes over the years.

Easy way to check the fuel pressure / regulator is to stick an inline filter in the return from the regulator - you should see a good stream of fuel flowing back at idle and when you rev it. If it's megasquirted have you tried tuning it to stop it going lean, or does it do it no matter what? Is the ignition OK?

No-one I know is running a fancy pump, I just spotted them in the hydro catalogue and asked for a price - was quoted £700 for one from Hyphose but that was taking a random guess at the specs so what you need could well be cheaper ('cos the big ones are mahoosive), especially from a known pump supplier (I don't think Hyphose are big into selling pumps/motors as their main business is hoses). £700 sounds like a lot until you look at a twin-motor 8274 setup