Paul64

Well I bit the bullet and handed over the cash for future business. Bought a domain with web hosting www.transylvania4x4tours.com Problem is I know sh*g all about web design, software, HTML's and just about everything else. I downloaded several software packages including one that guaranteed that even child could get a website going in half an hour! Total boll**cks! Took me an hour to load up a title. Anyway after several days and total failure, I am going to have to pay for someone to design it for me. Any recommendations for a web designer? Cheers, Paul.

Took LR into REME workshop today as they offered to check my antifreeze freezing point. Nice gadget the mechanic used. Took a drop of fluid from the expansion tank, dropped it in this handheld gadget, then looked through eye piece. Freezing point -3 oC. He said start again and fast! He said 3 years ago we had a spell of cold weather at -25 oC, much colder than usual for Muenster. He said if that happened again, it would be a big problemo. So emptied and started again 50-50 this time, as I should have done in the 1st place. Cheers, Paul.

Well done! Bet that was a good feeling. Cheers, Paul

Which company is this then?

Really sorry to hear that Phil, Another disgraceful act that just makes me want to puke. Not much I can do from Germany, but I will forward your posting to my friends back in the UK. Cheers, Paul.

Thanks Rog, I think I am having to start a clip and bolt replacement programme, due to the rust. Bothers me a bit, as maintenance must have been minimal for them to get like that. Or do they tend to rust quite quickly? I bought a few hose clips from a local DIY store, but they don't look half as robust as the ones I took off.

Thanks Rog, Yes, you're right, it does tend to get colder here in the winter. Not as cold as Bavaria, but -5 to -10 is not uncommon. I will start again as soon as new antifreeze arrives. Cheers, Paul.

Thanks Les, I have just ordered antifreeze off Difflock. When it arrives I am going to do it again, properly this time. Don't like the idea of the syphon option especially after your health warning. However, how anyone can get to the lower radiator pipe clip is beyond me? The lower clip is totally rusty, and access is poor. Are you supposed to remove something to get to it? Cheers, Paul

I forgot to mention, my mate who drank all my Warsteiner, brought the antifreeze round with him. Nice big container of bright blue -36oC stuff. Unfortunately when I started filling up there was only 2.5 litres of the stuff left. When I topped up with water, I only had to add 5 litres. According to Haynes the 200Tdi cooling system takes 11.10 litres leaving a discrepency of 3.6 litres. So I obviously didn't drain the whole system as I didn't drain the block. (Should have waited for Ralph's post, or read Haynes properly). So my antifreeze strength is only 22.5%, and according to Haynes, the minimum strength should be 25%. So basically I have wasted my time! According to Haynes, you shouldn't mix the types of antifreeze, and as this stuff is from the UK, I am better off starting again? Cheers, Paul.

Did exactly that with the silicone grease. Worked a treat! Cheers, paul

Should have read your posts first! Everything rusty and couldn't get anything off. Stood back and thought about it, then went in for the kill! Ended up taking the hose off from the bottom of the expansion tank (had to snap off the the clips), then pushed it down through to below the engine. Drained it all out, but got it everywhere including my feet. Stuck my hosepipe through the top of rad and gave it a good flush out. Put new antifreeze in mixed with water, and ran the engine with heater on hot full blast. Was told I should do this, ??why. Went for a spin and all seems well. Not sure if I am imagining it, but the heat guage needle seems lower as well. Looking at the rust on all the clips, I think this was the 1st rad flush for a long time. Neighbour came round to watch and advise, and has stayed round to finish off my supply of Warsteiner. Very enjoyable evening, but has really put me behind with my posts on here. Cheers for all your help. Paul.

Thanks Chris that is a useful link. I will have a look at their site in more detail later. Have you heard of M&M. I heard they even deduct VAT for oversees MOD staff? Have you had any dealings with them? Had a quick look on Google but couldn't find anything. Cheers, Paul.

Thanks. It just seems unusual for there to be a plug on some older models, and then take it away on newer ones. Seems like a retrogade step to me. I will give it a go later. Have to think about these things a bit more in Germany. There is an obsession with disposal of such fluids. We cannot even wash our cars with car shampoo in our driveways, as the drains are to be used for storm water only. If you want soap on your car you must attend a car wash where the soapy water is separated from the main drains. If you do not conform to these rules, and are seen breaking them the locals do not hesitate in reporting you. It is their country afterall, but it does take some discipline to follow all these rules. Bins are a good example. Grey bin for general rubbish (2 weekly collection), brown bin for bio (weekly), blue bin for cardboard and paper (two weekly). Yellow bags for plastic and tins (two weekly), green bags for grass, leaves etc(two weekly). Bulk rubbish, furniture, fridges etc (monthly, although the Turks usually pick it up first from the front of the house with a white van). It is not unusual for an inspector to be seen rumaging through the bins to ensure compliance. He is on bike, and will perform random searches. If you are found to be non-compliant a hefty fine ensues! Cheers, Paul

Class thicky of the forum here! Out in the garage last night ready to drain and flush the rad. Couldn't find a plug anywhere. Would you expect to find one on a 1994 200tdi 110 CSW? I have heard some of the later models do not have a drain plug, but why? Surely just pulling off a hose, is going to cause a bit of uncontrolled paint stripper to splash about? Thanks in advance. Paul.

When you buy OEM do you get yours direct from manufacturer, or do you use companies such as Rimmer? When buying on line there is a part number and part description, but how do you know if it OEM? Cheers, Paul

Thanks, sounds like sensible advice to me. Cheers, Paul

Cheers Les

I will and thanks

Bit the bullet today, and asked one of the REME mechanics to have a look at my LR. He did it within 1 hour of asking! He looked it over and tested the breaks as well. No dramas thank goodness. Says rear break pads will need changing in about 6 months. Cheers, Paul.

Not heard of that company before, but I will look out for it. The ones I have used in the past are Ratio, Baumarkt and Praktiker. Cheers, Paul.

So, I have greased one UJ and one sliding joint at the front end of the propshaft. I will do the back section this weekend. Thanks for your help. Paul.

I like the look of that road, especially in a LR. You are right though. Some of my local friends bought western cars, and were then importing expensive parts to keep them going on appalling roads. I kept telling them to stick with the Dacia that could take more punishment and was cheap to repair. I will keep you up to speed regarding GPS etc. Cheers, Paul.

That's a good idea. Thanks

Yes it does help, thanks. What does UJ stand for? I greased through the nipples front and back of propshaft. Are they the UJ's? Both of them release grease around joint when full, so thought no harm could be done. Sliding joint in the middle, I didn't touch that one? Cheers, Paul.

Sounds like a trip to Holland. The labelling is better too, as they always have multi language info on side. Cheers, Paul.