101sean

Lightweights mechanically and chassis wise are pretty much the same as a series land rover and go wrong/rot in the same ways. The big exception is the bulkhead vent panel which was designed to be unbolted and they rot horrendously, repair is difficult and genuine replacements are around £500 if you can find one. So buy on condition, not age. I'd be careful about one with loads of mods unless done properly or by a member of this forum 24V is nothing to be afraid of and a lot of work to change. It is easy to change just the ignition system though and fit an electronic dizzy and normal spark plugs. Lots of info and advise on the EMLRA forum (guys on there with extensive lightweight knowledge) and I think there's a lightweight forum as well. Usually some for sale on www.milweb.net

I finally sorted the 175A ones last week that I bought about 4 years ago I used a 4" vice, a nail and a large fence staple to give the same effect as a crimp tool, ie crimping is staggered down the sleeve, reckon they'll hold.

Getting the carrier off is easy enough, just need a mate with a press or hand some beer tokens to a garage.

The one I had changed a year or so ago took 30T to shift but that was after I'd tried beating out resulting in it tipping slightly

I've done it, took about 4-5 hours working methodically. As said, pig of a job, I started with the engine and worked back. The variious leads have to go exactly the route they came out of or some won't reach. I assume the dealer price would have been for doing both looms. If it's out of warranty you have no comeback with Land Rover, mine should have been sorted under warranty but it's first owner didn't bother with that sort of thing or regular servicing Wasn't subject of a callback, just investigated if customer complained of mis-fire. redesigned injector loom has supposed to have sorted it but they can still seep oil (my brother in law's 05 130 needs one, just out of warranty of course)

That's very good service. Thinking of buying some new shocks and mounts from him when I'm heading over to Wales in early September for some narrow gauge action (another sad interest of mine!). Prices are very reasonable so my credit card shouldn't take too much of a hammering.

Just fitted non genuine speedo transducer to Td5 110, now does 0-60 in 5 secs and over 110mph!! It made speedo over-read by 100%

The breakaway cable business is one that keeps coming up. You need to do a bit of engineering to make it pull a Sankey's brakes on (assuming they work!!) Would be extremely difficult on my GKN missile trailer and I have no intention of fitting one (or removing it's original reflectors). The regs aren't retrorespective and no-one I know has bothered either. Short of tearing the hook off the xmember, a NATO hitch can't detach. The MOD have followed the rules though with the new Penman 3/4t trailers which have breakaway cables.

The MOD have rather stupidly been following european directives on some things, the tank semi-trailers used with the Oshkosh HETs comply and are thus no good in Afghanistan, there is apparantly a UOR for suitable trailers!!

The trader was talking out of his backside.

Happy enough with general parts, wouldn't touch their bearings, seals, brakes or hydraulics though.

Sounds like the base plate or weights are stiff through lack of lubrication, try dripping a little bit of light oil inside and working it back and forth. If that doesn't work, mark the dizzy and the block (so you can put it back in the same place) and strip it on the bench. Pretty straightforward to do.

They're all the same, need filing out.

What about the fuel pick up, does it have a clogged or collapsed sock on the end (common 101 problem) Other thought, is your coil breaking down when hot?

As Clarkson once said, real men know exactly how far you can drive with the needle wrapped round the stop! Only been caught out one (in a company car, never run my own that low )

Realise that, just forgot it was an auto!

We had a new V8 auto D3 on loan at work a few years ago and I used it to ferry my boss and his cronies to Twickenham for a jolly. On the way home I was sat at lights in D, handbrake on and without thinking, decided to blip the throttle to listen to the lovely V8 burble, at which the handbrake automatically disengaged and almost catapulted me into the car in front Just managed to stop in time, gave me a bit of a scare

They don't have an alarm spider. In a normal set up, a loop around the ignition switch picks up a signal from the key fob and lets the 10AS alarm know it's OK to tell the ECU to send power to the starter. I think that's the way it works Are you using a complete system inc the 10AS alarm? If not, you may need one of the tuning gurus to tell the ECU it's a ROW model without immobilisation

Cheers, yes works very well. Backside of a couple of pop rivets sit in the indents on bottom edge of TB and the top of the mount has two threaded holes that take small bolts that screw into top indents. I've never had to secure the mount in the ahtray hole but it could be simply done. It is chucked in the back most of the time and mounted only when needed.

Have fun and make sure you order everything you need, a lot has to come off to get to it, it's driven off the back of the PAS pump (could even be that )

No probs mate, I've not patented it and Kev has seen it I'll knock up a CAD drawing for it if I can be bothered. It's held firmly so far without any fixings and never worked loose. Probably easy to fit something to hold it rigid if things get extreme. 101 sorted, recon box fitted, it's home and was at Charleville at the weekend.

I have a custom made (by a mate who's a stainless fab/welder ) mount for my CF18 TB. Very simple fits in ashtray hole in dash and hangs in front of my mud console. So simple and cost me couple of beers. Hopefully piccies attached.

You're a bit stuffed until you are 25 and can get classic car cover. You can buy a lot of petrol for the price of an LPG kit, depends on how much you use it. TBH, if you have to worry about the cost of running one you shouldn't bother.

No thanks, I like to be able to stop and steer in the wet Ditched my bar slicks at an early stage! Some 101 owners who keep the original fitment for correct appearance on historic ones may be interested.

I assume there's no emmissions control stuff leaking. If not, then yes you probably have a duff carb with a warped top plate. Been discussed in depth a few times on the EMLRA forum.