101sean

Each of the pivot points should have a pair of nylon top hat bushes FRC4499 to take up the slop, these are often missing. Also the pivot post on the side of the box is adjustable, undo the locknut and screw it in or out to get the required throw. The other movement you mention I don't think is a problem as long it's securely on the splines.

Mate of mine got his wife to help with brake bleeding, resulting row led to divorce!! Good luck Welcome btw and I agree with the others, you may still have air in there. As there's two of you doing it, close the bleed nipple when the pedal is right down before letting it back up. Sometimes air can be sucked in around the thread when you let the pedal up.

No, he's not talking twaddle. If you do a timing belt you need to check the pump timing afterwards, it only has to be a fraction out to affect the performance. Only done it on an NA, 300Tdi is probably the same but I'll let someone else who's actually done a 300Tdi tell you how.

My 00 Td5 has galvanised inner arches.

You have to join the EMLRA to get the Merlin report for £3 which is a computerised summary of it's service, initial cost etc but may not be the full story. The RLC museum at Deepcut holds the record cards for a lot of vehicles and will do you a copy for £25, this is a non returnable search fee though, if they don't have the record you don't get the money back. If you call them first though I think they can give you a reasonable idea of the chances of finding it. In either case, what you get will be full of acronyms and abbreviations, you'll need advice off the EMLRA forum to translate them! http://forum.emlra.org/index.php

If was more than a tiny bit out, it would run like a dog so it looks like you've been lucky. The critical bit if you have the rest right is the pump timing, is that where you used the drill bit?

Sort of thing that's difficult to diagnose remotely! I assume you've touched nothing internal to the main box? I'd backtrack over what you've done to check you haven't forgotten, shifted or trapped something. Also have you disturbed the detent springs that keep the main stick aligned to 3/4th?

Could be plenty on the market in a while, they are going to be replaced by G-wagons. Shipping could be a bit costly though! One of the SAS 6x6s would be nice if I won the lottery.

Also the HMVF forum will have a lot of expertise on this http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/

Yea, Td5 uses a bearing spacer and a single stake nut which are best lobbed in the bin and replaced with the usual locking nuts and tab washer as god intended.

If you dismantle the military lens rims you can put modern lenses back in them, fairly straightforward to do, there is no difference between 12 and 24V lenses, just the bulbs. I fitted Paddocks standard replacement lenses in my 101 military rims and H4 bulbs. Go to any commercial vehicle motor factor for the bulbs. If you are fitting halogen bulbs, consider fitting relays in the head and main beam circuits, while not so important with 24V (half the load amps wise of a 12V system) it may save you frying the 6 way or indicator switches. 70's Lucas wiring isn't made to carry the high pressure smoke needed for decent lights Every thing 24V is available and is nothing to be afraid of, more reliable than 12V as well.

If you look in the Nanaocom manual it says to check the numbers on the injectors themselves, I think because of the different types of injectors it can't always read them although it read mine ok.

There's probably your answer then, the MAF is one of the bits worth buying only genuine. They do seem to run better with the MAF disconnected but will guzzle diesel. A failing MAF won't give any faults but I believe it should read around 55 ish at idle. I had one that read around 24 at idle and wouldn't rev much over 3000rpm

Yea, don't try it while roaming!! Bought my LR phone while in the UK, I'm with 02 Ireland, and time spent setting up the GPS and internet software while still in the UK was pretty expensive! Teach me to be impatient, check your small print.

Those strengthening ribs won't fit a pattern door. I didn't bother with them as with the internal and external plates with little weight actually on the door they aren't needed. My door is further reinforced by a chequerplate liner anyway.

There's loads of phones with GPS these days, my Land Rover S1 (Sonim XP3) has one. Most touch screen ones have them as they can run Sat Nav apps.

If you just want to use the NATO hitch I think there is a kit that involes a spreader pate behind the crossmemeber.

Common get round is a Dixon Bate adjustable hitch with 2 drop plates. I have the NATO hitch on the top hole and pin/ball on the bottom. May have to rotate the NATO sometimes to use the ball (NATO drop plate is bolted rather tha pinned to the drop plate on mine)

No, the existing alternator is resited on the top of the PAS bracket. There as 2 sorts of belt and plate for the pump itself, the one in the photo and one that has an idler pulley for tension, either will do just in case you get a set that looks different. Best bet is to acquire a full set off a breaker but you can mix and match bits, it's just the mounting bracket that has to come from a pre Tdi.

The bits have to be from a pre Tdi 4 pot engine, the pump/alternator bracket off a Tdi won't fit earlier blocks. There was a long thread on another forum some time ago that went on for ages before it was twigged that the brackets were different!

Have you followed Nanocoms advice (poorly translated italian, not easy I know! )and checked the engine ECU is properly earthed? Have ou got the most recent aoftware update from about 18 months ago, mine rarely worked on the previous version. Even now it can be a bit flakey. Also it won't read the engine ECU in Pos II on the ignition, mine has to be fully on.

Got 255/85s on my 110, look good. They are BFG MTs and readily available from the usual suspects, got mine from Paddocks.

Glad you got it sorted!

Just done a reply about bleeding the clutch over on boards.ie as well. I can never bled them fully, just enough to get gears to engage, rest works it way out over time. This assumes you've go the pedal set as Les and Western say. The missing spring won't affect the bleeding but needs to be in place otherwise yuo're just relying on the internal spring in the cylinder. If you still have problems, pm me with your mobile, I'm not too far away and may be in Limerick next week.

Not got access to parts book at the mo but you need a prop for an early 83 to 85 ish V8 110