101sean

If you do a search there should be other posts on this. I think I recall reading that the unofficial dealer fix was to trick the throttle into thinking the Tbox was in low range! It was a common complaint on early ones.

Be interesting to see how it ends up being used and whether Afghanistan reveals any shortcomings.

Just done mine, poxy fuel hose on cooler was jammed, stress of releasing it broke pipe off cooler The cooler pipes on early ones are only chemically bonded, coolers are stainless steel and plastic. A mate who works with stainless welded pipe back in, fine for a couple of days until end cap seal gave way. Got s/h replacement on way from breaker, they are £300 new So if doing this job on early one, don't strain the fuel cooler pipes. Later ones have a totally different cooler design (surprise, surprise )

3 on older ones (like fitted to my 00 110), 5 on newer, switches earth as well. I had to replace my duff 3 pin with a 5 pin.

I'm still pleased with my OD, I'm comitted anyway and it suits where and how I drive. When the OD played up I did wonder whether I'd done the right not fitting a Disco box and an ECU retune but not sure it would have worked well in my circumstances. There's merits in both (ecu may still happen though ). Doing it now, I'd probably fit the RM one if they were easy to get! Used to that style of OD in a series I used to own and have a Rangie OD in the 101 which is interesting with cable operation (and withstands a lot of abuse) Gaining MPG was never a good reason for an OD, more comfortable cruising (for driver and engine) is the main benefit.

AFAIK, the RM unis uses normal gears and syncro hubs and is similar to the old series OD, no one way bearings and totally manual. The speed sensor in the GKN unit automatically drops it out below 30 so it can't be engaged in reverse.

No, put a normal coil fed from the filter box and install one of the electronic dizzys available cheap. The 24V system actually uses a 10V coil fed from the filter box, it's all the radio suppression that makes this the only part of the 24V system a pain. An alternative is to use a 24V - 12V dropper as used in HGVs, don't be tempted to just tap one of the batteries, you'll ruin them long term. There's nothing wrong with the rest of the 24V system, parts aren't expensive (postage to US could be!) and there's loads of expert advice on the EMLRA and HMVF forums

I'm probably scaremongering, the manual doesn't mention loctite but the the only thing holding the bolts is the friction from the torque setting. It was also on my old Tbox which had a fair amount of vibration and backlash (and I was pounding down the M4 at 85 ). Since fitted Ashcroft main and Tboxes and it's been fine. I thought a lot about it when buying the new Tbox but I live in the back of beyond and a lot of my driving is on back roads where the 1.41 ratio is spot on plus the occaisional towing, the OD just helps on long runs (and the odd stretch of local road that is straight and not full of potholes, v rare!) If I still lived in UK I would have probably gone for the 1.22 disco box. As for how tight I did the bolts, it was with an allen key adaptor in a 3/8 drive wrench. After years of practice it was somewhere more than tight but just short of 'kin tight, around that point before you know the cheap allen key is going to round off!!

The GKN overdrive is actually quite an old design being similar to a Laycock-de-normanville type J, been used in a lot of classic 4 sppeders. There's very good advice about them on an American website about TR6s. The only difference to the LR one is the adaptor, speed sensor and the ECU. http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/jod/JOD1/JOD1.htm In older installations there was a simple switch that only allowed use in 3/4, the LR installation uses a sensor that equates to about 30 in high range. It's pretty important that it can't engage in reverse as it will explode! (It has a one way roller bearing inside) Operationally it's similar to an auto with epicyclic gears and clutches so can be shifted on the fly with no clutch, get it right under load and the change is really smooth. From what I've read, the RM unit is similar in principle to the old series OD with normal gears, syncro hubs etc. How strong they are no-one seems to know yet! As posted before, the problem I had with my GKN was it working loose on the back of the Tbox which damaged the odd size bearing inside. Ignore the instructions and thoroughly clean the Tbox holes, loctite the allen head screws and do them up tight. I did it by feel but reckon it's 50% tighter than recommended. The guys at D4x4 said the hadn't heard of the problem though. It's behaved itself since and changes are getting smoother with use.

When I re-registered my 110 CSW here in Ireland (with only 5 seats), the new reg document came back with 12 seats on it, insurance co have seen it and are OK. I assume the VRO here checked the VIN no for what it should be, not just what I told them!! As I presume you can't change a VIN no without an IVA, your 9/10/12 seater SWs will always technically be that as it's what the VIN no says (enter it into Calvin or Microcat and see what comes up). As pat_pending says though, physical removal of seats satisfies the rules in UK.

I have the Paddocks alloy ones, been fine so far, regularly checked and always found to be tight. Used loctite and torque wrench to fit. They use captive 10.8 bolts for studs. Only problem with them is it makes the wheel a bit more difficult to mount as it doesn't have the hub to guide it anymore (a shovel helps) plus there's more to undo for maintenance.

101 filter mount has cooler take off and points the filter up out of the way. You'll have trouble finding one though!

They are reasonably easy to repair, one of the bearings is a non standard size though and you'll only get it from D4x4. Had to do mine after it worked loose on the back of the Tbox.

Do a google on Rover V8, there's heaps of advice inc running on. Hopefully you get it sorted here first though. AFAIK timing can affect running on, I presume your setting is a compromise between petrol/lpg? Another problem can be the overun poppet valves in the throttle butterflies, most owners solder them shut (make sure you do it properly, my engine just ate one, no ill effects apart from v fast idle after )

Hi and welcome. Fairly sure they are standard HD springs. Rear RH 272967 LH 272968 Front RH 276034 LH 265627 from my NATO catalogue. If you are not worried about true originality consider parabolic springs. You'll have to change the shocks as well but if your springs are that bad you should really do them as well anyway. Supposed to give a ride nearly comporably with coils If you are into the military side of things, check out http://forum.emlra.org/index.php

This is turning into a really useful thread. I love maps, even bought MM of New Zealand for a 5 week visit there. Quite often run Ozi with OSI maps just on running around the area cos I can! I use a USB GPS mouse with the TB as that's what it came with. If I had to replace it I'd d the same despite lack of choice, loads of Bluetooth ones but not much USB or CF. I know there are GPS forums out there but is there room for a sub forum here biased towards Land Rover set ups and the sort of resources we use whether locally or ranging far and wide?

Here's some pics of the mount I use which is stainless steel knocked up by a mate. It just fits snugly in the ashtray hole and rests against my Mud console, doesn't rattle or vibrate. I originally used an inverter to run the PS but I now have a 12V laptop supply.

I've had mine for 11 years and wouldn't part with it, I'm just under 6' and have a figure only a diet of Guinness can produce but have no trouble driving it. Got comfy seats fitted though Until this weekend it drove very well on electronic ignition and SUs, took off like a scalded cat and happily loped along at 55 - 60 in overdrive doing 12 - 14mpg. Took it up to nearly 80 once but that was seriously scary! Took it out at the weekend and it now idles way too fast, got a manifold leak somewhere I suspect. Biggest problem with them is finding tyres, decent 9.00x16s are scarce and the six stud rim is quite narrow. They look silly on anything smaller tham 35" tyres.

I use a CF18 Toughbook in a stainless steel bracket that sits/hangs from the ashtray hole in my Defender. The TB was S/H off ebay from a baloonist and had 50K and 25K of the whole of the UK already loaded!! I did consider an in-car PC but the TB was a bargain and I can use it in different vehicles. I'll post up a some pics in a couple of days, just off to a show now.

The RH picture looks same as the Paddocks one. If you have rear steps/bumperettes you could have problems. Others like the Mantec mount nearer the hinge line I think. While pleased with my Paddocks one, it's restricting me fitting off the shelf rear end protection.

I have a Paddocks carrier that opens with the door. Works fine for me, is well made and no rattles. I fitted it after the weight of the spare pretty much destroyed my rear door

The same but with different drop arms

Difference in pumps is Def HP exits at rear, HP at side on disco pump may hit chassis.

Similar thread running on the EMLRA forum titled 'Old enough to have known better' Bloodiest tale was holding a V8 exhaust gasket with thumb through port and drilling burr out of bolt hole. Drill grabbed gasket which spun it nearly severing thumb Winner so far is not bothering to disconnect battery, welding spanner to starter, knocking themselves unconcious and breaking ankle in panic to get from under Land Rover! There but for the grace of God, I can only confess to near misses

Cheers, thought as much, I'll get the correct part from someone who has it.