Oakmaster

Yes I complety get that - just wondered about the other stuff?

Not meaning to hiJack this post, but I have read (on here I think) that reducing the voltage on a halogen bulb causes them to deteriorate faster? does anyone have any facts / experience of Dim Dip to back this up? Conventionally with incandesnt for every 5% you reduce the voltage across and incadescent you double the bulb life. Until I heard of Halogen 'depletion' I was planning on wiring my spots etc so that when 'off' they would recieve enough volts (via a resistor) to keep them glowing stopping, (or so I thought) the shock of the bulbs going from cold to flat-out, and back again. Beware topic diversion: - having a Christmas light 'fetish' (my Wifes description, - I do put 20 sets on our tree every year) I have systematically taken sets and added 10% extra bulbs (from identical sets - I learned this the hard way!) It definitely works in terms of increasing the bulb life, and I spend substantially less time tracing and swaping dead bulbs.

October 2015 110 Puma Utility One small mistake ........................................ We live in an area thats been pretty badly flooded, and at the end of the week recently I made mistake number one, and headed home very low on fuel (knowing that I had 2 cans of fuel at home and wasnt planning on going anywhere that week-end) Sunday evening we got a call to rescue a 'maiden in distress' who was stranded unable to get home after spending most of the day trying to find a route through the floods. We set off in a hurry and brough her back to stay for the night, the fuel light came on, and I calculated we would make it home, which we did. Early next morning, in the dark, in the most vile, wet, and gale-force windy conditions I dumped one can into the tank and set off for the nearest petrol station (11 miles away) - I was a bit concerned that the fuel light didnt extinguish, but waded through some significant water (everywhere, up to 2 feet deep at times). after the first couple of miles the fuel light went off, and I noted that the fuel guage started rising (to about an eighth of a tank indicated) I was suprised, (I NEVER let the tank drop below 1/4 - so had no idea about whether this was normal or not) When I jumped out at the pumps I was devasted to see the fuel cap dangling off! Stunned I brimed it (with the usual Shell V Power) and depressed and embarassed I went to work. Its taken the last 2 weeks to steel myself to even thinking about admitting this stupididty publicly. The continuing issues with the continuing extreme weather (combined with my dodgy knees) have stopped me getting underneath the tank to investigate draining it. So - what should I do? Drain it is the obvious answer, but given my circumstances I wont get to this anytime soon, are there any other options -? (its also fair to say that I'm pretty incompetent mechanically - I can (could, pre recent legislation ) wire houses, plumb, work stone, Oak Frame, and carpenter, (and back in the day fix appliances like VCRs) but I have zero success with vehicles (even though I have 6 including a '55 S1, 79 V8 110, and my forever Defender - which is the only Brand New vehicle Ive ever bought, and didnt take delivery of until it was dry enough to drive it stright to the guy who waxoiled it. In the immdeiate short term - is there anything I should put in the tank to deal with this? Am I imagining that the flood water dumped 1/8th of a tank's worth of water into the tank apologies for the long post - I'll admit I'm an idiot and very embarssed - hence the 2 weeks to pluck up the nerev to even post this! Thanks if you are still reading this B

Sorry Snagger - can you just clarify this bit: "had to be red times in just 15,000" thanks B

I got a Richards, and the people who did the swap (in 2014/15 - it took them a while) said they were the only real choice )back then. never heard anything negative.

Interesting stuff - my DAB antenna is inside, stuck to the alpine window light, under a patriot roof rack, and close to a supporting leg - Its hopeless.

Ive been gently nudging Shabs to make an LT85 slick shift - maybe we need to form a lobbing group? (apologies -didnt mean to Hijack the thread)

Hereford (sadly not Hertford) Galvanisers offered to do mine about 5 years ago

Yes! - so in 4 years we have not made any progress on that front! Oh well! I will try the relay and the reversing switch approach. was your kit from Devon 4x4? - I wonder if anyone has worked out how to make the LED in the gear knob work to show if it is engaged? if not I could put a bigger brighter LED on the dash. (forgetful moi?) Thanks Ralph. B

Apologies for the slight thread Hi Jack Has anyone overcome the problem with the lack of replacement speed sensors?

I cant remember if I ever knew that to forget it - but a handy tip - I expect it might have been part of the training course I did in the 80s. I do have some EP 90 its usually used in the wormdrive gearbox of my Skill 8 1/4 "circular saw - I expect that will be a novelty to many Carpenters, and electric circular saw that has to have oil changes!

Thank you both for your comments, I usually use a biodegradable oil, and these days its only for very occasional use in my own garden, and in this particular case taking one limb of one storm damaged tree, without having run into town and buy some proper oil. I was merely wondering what similarities there were between the multitude of oils that are readilly to hand. Sunflower oil is pretty sticky so I might risk that. Cheers

Chainsaw Lube Oil Not land-Rover related (directly) but I'll bet a lot of Defender owners also have a chainsaw? and will have a view My question is what oils are similar in their properties to chainsaw bar lubrucating oil? I have been given a can for my saws, and in passing I was told - "Its hydraulic Oil" (tractor / forklift applications) "It will be fine" Is that true? and if not are there any Oils that a typical Landrover Owner might have at home that would do? cheers

I think I would be in the runnng for the most 'Stupid' questions asked, so you have plenty leeway, - but I seem to be tolerated - and these might be the finest bunch of people we know!

Amongst the very best things about this forum, is the requirement to craft your question so as to get your facts right (you would never think that Rigorous Attention to Detail was my motto) so that you get useful answers to the question you thought you had asked. The VERY best thing is that you usually get some useful and insightful answers to members everyday queries. BUT – you have to be very careful to set out your query so as to get the answer to the question you really wanted answered. I really take on board (and am grateful for) all the responses about the inadequate regime we apparently have with our server UPS, but as it turns out, the ready supply of small 12V lead acids, are not any part of the server UPS, but are the residue from individual users UPS packs that are gradually being phased-out as we all transition to laptops. So apologies for getting that wrong (today I mainly feasted on Humble Pie – and I don’t mean that great band of the 1970s) What I’d really like to know, and should have been what I asked clearly in the first place is this: Why? when I have weeded out all the batteries that wont hold a charge (only using a volt meter as the gauge after a re-charge and a couple of months ‘resting’) and only going forwards using the ones who seem to maintain their voltage do I have total failure when I apply even the lightest load to those who would have indicated they would be good? Thank you, if you are still reading this.

Every year at work they change the batteries for the back-up system in the Servers at work. out of 20 or so I'll get 4 or 5 that are still good. I check the voltage, and see if they will take a charge using my CETK Charger (which has a 'reconditioning' function) if they take and hold a charge then I load test them (usually with a 20W bulb) then re-check the voltages. i then put them on a 12V tyre pump and see if they will blow up a tyre (car tyre) With my 'current' batch (did you see what I did there?) I got them down to ten number with a range of 12.8 to 13Volts, 4 passed easilly blowing up a tyre. the other 6 despite showing a good voltage just crashed when I did the bulb test (showed as 0.01V with the 20W bulb across the terminals) I havnt encountered this before - advice and explanations would be very welcome. They are quite small, not quite as big as a motorbike, golf cart, or a jump starter battery, but using 4 toghether you can use it as a jump starter. Also very handy in the camper as the lesiure battery, individually with the 12V tyre pump (wheel barrows, mowers) and jumpstarting mowers. below is one Ive bodged-up with copper pipe 'horns' for the jump leads, a 50A Anderson connector, and cigarette lighter socket. (I'll admit I'm a bit 'tight' - and if I took my time into account - it would have been way cheaper to buy a jump start pack) Thank you

Sorry gentelmen, been away for a day week-end - while I was away it was taken to the nearest L-Rover garage who happended to be the local main dealer, and they could not find anything wrong with it. We know it wasnt diesel, and it had been washed recently - so maybe its that? Interesting thanks for your input

looking for the pooled knowledge of the group: Somewhere on here, I may have read that if you run your halogen bulb equiped spots / floods at a lower voltage then they deteriorate, such that their life is shortend. I do know that with traditional incandesent bulbs, that for every 5% reduction in voltage, you get a doubling in bulb life. (and my real world experience would bear this out) My plan was to have the spots, and the floods fed by a minimal voltage, so that they were fed by a resistor pack when not selected, with enough juice to keep them at sidelight level. so that they were always 'warm' and reduce the 'shock' of switching between ON and Cold? any ideas ??

yes has been washed (unlike mine!) - its not diesel for sure - and whatever it is - it isnt drying, doesnt smell, doesnt 'rainbow' or go milky white !

Gentlemen - thank you for your sound advice - I'll let you know the outcome tomorrow - Cheers

Thanks for the help B

Its deffo not diesel, and sadly not screenwash (too easy) it doesnt smell (or so we think!) Does modern Brake fluid smell? thanks B

I have used (for low current applications) these - they are not in the same leauge as the ones above, a bit cheap and cheerful https://cpc.farnell.com/search?st=Automotive Fuse box

Who Knew?- excelent idea!