Oakmaster

Leakin Fluids Mystery This is our MD's 2015 110 Puma Tdci (photo and video below) For the last 2 days it has been leaking a fluid when he drives it in from home, (about 2 miles) Its not oil, and its not water, (it doesnt dry) We have checked Brake, Clutch, steering, Coolant, engine oil,and washer fluids - and all seem fine the aircon hasnt been used (and its the wrong side) - a cursory look (Thats when you look and swear a lot!) reveals nothing obvious. I'm going to revisit the brake fluid, because I dont know enough to diagnose this, but despite no obvious evidence of a leak it is below the brake servo. any suggestions anyone? IMG_1201.MOV

Thanks Western Anybody know if it is still part of the 110 2015 utility Puma loom? Fused / Unfused and how many amps? thanks

(apparently) NOT being good at searching for stuff on here, I was wondering if some kind soul could tell me if there is live feed (possibly unswitched / not fused) to a rear corner of a 110 (specifically a 1989 110 and / or 2005 Tdci 110) I would like to know: is it correct? What current is it rated for? Where it starts? where does it end? what colour is the cable? Thanks B

I have a NAS step with Dixson Bate 'professionally fitted' from new - Its not very good (in fact its very poor) mainly because they didn’t fit the straps / braces that would have stopped it being bent (backwards / upwards) Having lived in the USA I do like receiver hitches, and would recommend you investigate that option (which is what I intend to do myself)

Where do I start? every comment is relevant to me at this moment, so please bear with me . I have a 175A Andrersen in the passenger footwell and a 20 foot jump lead, so far Ive never needed it for for ME but I do help out other people, like the chap who flaged me down in central hereford and said - "you have a Landrover - you must have jump leads" (that I think reflects well on us as a group) I think that fitting the Anderson / Andersen is well worth it - just to save the friging about with the seat squab. (defender puma) Ive also decided to change everything I have over to Andersen 50A, and lacking the crimping tool, have worked out a way of soldering them (but I worry about melting the solder? - should I worry?) Q1 - is soldering Anderson 50A OK? I have the 110 Puma mentioned, a 1989 110 V8, a 1955 S1, a VW 1988 T4 Camper (with leisure battery, and is for sale) my wifes BMW, and my daughters VW Fox some of these are on a constant trickle or maintenace charge, via Aldi or Lidl 'inteligent chargers' around 6 of them - the problem is that when we get a powercut (frequently) the Aldi / Lidl chargrs do not re-set (not so 'inteligent') To address this: I overcame my 'cautious' tendencies and bought a CETK charger, which is excelent - it has revitalised many batteries, and after a power cut just starts up with no fuss. the Aldi / Lidl have to be re-set which is a pain in the butt. Q2 - is there a affordable maintenence / trickle charger that auto resets? It needs to be afordable because there are 6 vehicles, and 3 associated spare batteries. I also have 2 lawn tractors / ride-on mowers, just because, - (though I was a lot fitter when I chased the push mower around, now I think Im reliving my farm-hand days) I have used motorbike jump cables to start them ( I wish I'd googled 'motorbike jump cables' before buying the bits and making my own) and I have 2 'OK' / 'pretty good' 12v compresors (2 because having suggested to my wife this would be a great Christmas pressent, I forgot and bought myself one! - Doh! - which was made worse because i did the same the previous year with a carpenters tool belt! -But you just cant have too many tool belts! ) The compressors not only inflate the various vehicle tyres, but also the mowers, the mower accessories (trailer, 'scratter / harrow'. roller etc - land's cheaper where I live!) and the wheel barrows, sack trucks etc ( I did spend a lot of time filling every tyre with this anti leak 'stuff' which resulted in them all deflating - there is another story) I have bought the componets to make the whole (low ampage) set up work based around the 50 Amp Anderson conectors . Q3 - can anyone recomend a tyre sealant that works? I was thinking that I could use 10 Amp breakers for all circuits that dont involve jump starting the mowers? I have made-up a 'power pack' using 4x12V batteries surplus from the UPS packs we use at work (regenerated using the CETK charger) this works just fine. I realise this is long and rambling, so thank you to anyone still reading: Auto eject - In 1994 we exported a Green Oak framed house to Martha's Vinyard in the USA - the local cop drove a Chevvy Blazer that they had bought from a police Department in Alaska - when we got pulled over (inevitable) the guy (once he made us do the sobriety tests) took us through ALL the various systems that had been fitted to make this a vechicle that would start on demand (another long story) - it was covered with 'auto ejects' Having draged a 150 foot extension (in the sodding VW Camper) down to the nearest shop, I can strongly recomend tying the mains lead of anything 240V you have on board ( I had 2 chargers, main and liesure. a greenhouse heater to keep the manky condensation off, and a light - more to illuminate our wandering about) I can strongly recomend tying the mains / power lead / cord cable - to (and throug) the handle of the drivers door handle. any advice would be appreciated

There is some good stuff on here (somewhere) about adapting the ducts to vent onto the side windows too, the main problem (to me) seems to be that the actual volume of air is nowhere near enough to heat and de-mist.

Funny - was just thinking about that - Sadly that task is languishing at Number 14,382 on my To Do' list

In 1990 I had a SIII Stage 1 V8 which I acquired with worn out Avon Rangemaster X-Plies. i went a bought a set of 255 85 16 tyres, which I think were the biggest you could buy off the shelf back then. of course they looked like the 'Pups Parts' . but not the best for a daily drive that could include all over the UK. So I bought (by mail-order a set of 750 R 16 BFGoodrich Commercials ) fitted to my second set of Forward control rims. These had a Pizza cutter profile and looked very uncool, but were excellent on the road, well mannered, and economical. After transferring them to my 300Tdi On Weller 8 spokes, clocked up an excellent 67,000 miles before they were worn out. I ran them at 28Psi and 32Psi and rotated them regularly.

Interesting - Why would Land Rover, recommend 48psi I don't know the answers, and Im' not even sure of the questions But since I don't have any issues with my ride, either the bounce, the road holding, or braking. I'm aware that the front brakes take the bigger share of the braking effort, and if the tyre wear pattern says the tyre is over-inflated, then the centre part of the tread must be taking more of the grip (I might be talking bollox here) Red 90 - when you say 'Scale' I assume that means what we would call a Weigh-bridge ?

I was told by a guy who had a Land-rover Workshop, and a separate Tyre business, that for a lightly loaded 110 CSW - 32 PSI on the back and 28 on the front He showed me that 40 PSI on the back was wearing out the tread in the middle.

Interesting. Id always thought that there was a live feed to the rear of the chassis? (Im sure I saw it on here somewhere) I had planned to use it for some project that has yet to materialise!

And if you were unfortunate to be involved in an accident involving serious injury, you can be sure that your insurers will be all over your truck looking for reasons not to pay.

Thank you B

Sorry this is a bit of a silly request - but if anybody out there happens to know the size (length and diameter) of the bolts I need to attach my bumperettes to my rear cross member, that would save me time and hassle. thanks B

One reason I moved the spare tyre to a carrier on the tailgate was to get some weight on the back-end to assisti (in a small way) with ballancing the breaking effort. Another (less good reason) was because I had 2 of them kicking about!

Good point - I should check, thanks.

Exmoor, seem to be getting roundly trashed on the Facebook groups? I need a new tilt for my series 1 too, and a tonneau cover for the 110 which which will need to be 'bespoke' as I stretched the cab by 4" (which is the best 'mod' of all!)

Excellent skills and out of the box thinking

Mine is a Pick-up!

I would echo this point - on jaunts up the M6 and M1 this year I had to stop and clean them. I was slightly disappointed by the time they take to warm-up (MudStuff) but since I bought 2 sets, I'll still be fitting them to my 110 as well.

South African safari outfitters, melville and moon make amazing seat covers, and a few years back I was given a set for my Puma (Christmas present from a grateful employer) they are excellent. Now, having spent a sum into 5 figures on restoring my 1989 110 V8 pick-up I need to complete within a rapidly disappearing budget. Despite a long week jumping in and out of land rovers, pulling people out of snow drifts, Im pretty sure I don't need waterproof covers, ( and too many Betty swallocks on the long drives) while I'm planning to use Aldi heated seat elements between the seats and the covers I don't want Aldi type covers - I want a durable fitted cover, breathable and durable (did I say that already?) any recommendations? B

Thank you - that is one of the answers I'd hoped for - and within my limited skills! Cheers B

the problem is with LEDs (i changed all the bulbs in my Puma to LEDs the week it rolled out the show room, because mainly, A) I didn't want the unreliability issues, and B) didn't want to worry about leaving the lights on! What i didnt foresee was that fact that the heat from incandescent bulb helps drive off the moisture / condensation, and the lights are no more reliable (and in these times, that heat clears away the snow and ice!)

thanks for the reply - No I cant weld, but thinking laterally cheers

I have an unfortunate habit of backing into things (despite nearly 30 years of driving essentially the same sized vehicle) ideally I'd like to fit a pair of Military style rear bumperettes, (see picture below) there is a slight snag in that I have an older style spare wheel carrier, and the bracket covers the mounting holes (see other picture below) Id be very pleased to hear suggestions as to a simple way to overcome this, especially from anyone who has done it. Thanks Bill Bumperette photo courtesy of John Richards Surplus