Oakmaster

I made a 'Dixon Bate' type hitch (back in 1990) but managed to get it the wrong way round ! so the long part had the ball hitch - which was brilliant because you could pull the pins (2) and no dangling plough BUT no braces back to the chassis either (series III Stage 1 V8)

Hands up - I was being a bit lazy - But Just googling stuff does not get you the experience or recommendation, nous, wisdom, or insight from the members who might have a valid opinion to share. googling it just gets you a vendor.

"Links to good gas strut setups for bonnet mounted spare, please!" seconded - But dont need the "bonnet mounted spare"

The NoCo charger looks great especially as it retains its settings in the event of a power cut. But I already have 4 smart chargers of the CTEK style (but by Aldi / Lidl) - they work great (and they ‘recover’ wasted batteries) But when the power goes, they don’t turn back on – and you (I) won’t know unless you check them regularly. So what I really need are 4 little trickle chargers – cheap and simple, that will start again when the power cuts and comes back on. They don’t need to get the discharged battery up to capacity – they just need to maintain a fully charged battery. Does anyone think that 500Ma (1/2 an Amp) is too much? for a trickle? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lighting-automotive-batteries-Crocodile-connectors/dp/B006FG9RUC/ref=sr_1_1?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1470038341&sr=1-1&keywords=battery+trickle+charger

12V Battery trickle charger Does anyone know of a compact and reasonably priced 12V Battery trickle charger that doesn’t cut out / re-set when the 240V power supply gets interrupted? As in when there is a power cut, or the RCD trips out, when the power is restored the trickle charger starts up again without having to be manually re-set.

Good Points - Well Made - here is another vote for galving and painting - especially of it isn't your daily driver

In some ways I'd be quite happy if it were a tired engine - then I'd know what the issue is, and I'd have a good excuse to take it out in favor of a bigger and rebuilt lump. The engine isn't original, this was once a Turbo Diesel - the 3.5 serial number suggest that it was once at home in a 130 Ambulance / rapier tractor. But No one who has driven it,or was involved in the rebuild, (as in new chassis and bulkhead) or who has serviced it, has ever suggested that it is tired? I appreciate all the help and advice here because I feel I'm stumbling around in the dark.

Maybe I don’t rev it hard enough – but my early V8 motoring was with American Pick-ups with lazy V8s My 3.5 is a long way from perfect, but – 65 to 70 MPH is comfortable / achievable in 4th which makes me think that something is ‘different’ Is it possible that despite the transfer box number suggesting that it is 1.4:1 someone might have changed the ratios at some point? I've had the GKN from new, bought for my late wife’s 300Tdi 90 – It was never fitted (in the same period I was running my 110 300 Tdi with a GKN which was very useful especially when towing) OD 3rd and OD 4th being particularly helpful. I should at this point state that the Overdrive isn’t working (or ‘in’ or engaged) so is not contributing to the over gearing issue

Yes I was being a bit dim there wasn't I

Over Geared: I have a 3.5 carb V8 110 (early) the transfer box is 1.4:1 the box is an LT85, Im running 235/85 16 It seems over geared – I don’t often use 5th Gear and never engage the GKN Overdrive If I wanted to change the gearing on the V8 is it easier / cheaper to change the diffs or the Transfer box? cheers Bill

Can anyone advise / comment on vehicle tracker systems? What's good what’s not? and where is the best place to fit them on a late model Defender

No didn't hear that - must be going to the wrong pubs - I did work for a bloke in the USA who had his pick-up, Bank account and phone in the Names of his dogs. Thanks for the advice everybody - I do appreciate it cheers

I'm buying a 1st car for my daughters (actually they have had a S1 and a S2 since they were 10 and 14- but they seem uninsurable) I was thinking of naming them both as joint registered keepers (as opposed to me) what are the Pros and Cons? cheers

I want to fit an Oil Pressure gauge to my V8 110 – Is there an idiots guide? What to buy, where to fit it? (and how) and where to buy the kit? Lastly can you get a gauge with a range that puts 30 Psi in the middle of the range?

Reluctant as I am to forgo my Victor Meldrew stance - I have to say that is a well considered and sensible answer! - and thanks to everyone else who commented

Insuring Teenage Drivers Before I go and buy some horrible little ‘car’ thing for my daughters to drive – has anyone had any success recently insuring a Land-Rover for teenagers Series / Defender at an affordable rate? Sorry to bring it up again but things do change

I'm sure there will be plenty of people who would be very happy to pitch-in and share a galv dip with you to get to the minimum weight- just ask on here?

Great - Tyre pressures - been waiting for this (didnt want to bore the old hands) My last Puma ( a CSW ) I ran on the recommended pressures (I think 28 on the front and 45 on the back) with the result that the tyres on the back wore hard in the middle. I thought this would be last Land-rover I ever bought - but a sudden rush to the head - and there went the children's inheritance on a last of the line Puma. this will need to see me out - so I want to get the tyre pressure right. My Stage one V8 I ran on 30 Lbs Ft3 all round (was a van then a pick-up) seems fine on a variety of tyres - then a 200 Tdi at 26 front and 30 on the back - seemed fine, then a 300 Tdi 28 on the front, 30 on the back (because I still had the stage 1 V8 on 255 85 Mud Campaigners - I had the largly road only 110 on BFG Commercial tyres that did 67,000 miles) - All seemed fine. Then I went big time and bought a Td5 = and went 30 front and 35 rear - seemed OK, - The funny thing I suppose is that the more you spend, the more you pay attention to to manufacturers recommendations! hence 28 /29 on the front and 45 on the back with my latest and last Puma 110 CSW XS Its actually a 110 utility - 5 seater and carries some 'stuff' but is really loaded. I dont really want to run 28 on the front and 45 on the back so how low can I go (Good GRIP is an issue for me on my daily drive) BUT aIso also have my 110 V8 Pickup (Galv Chassis pride and joy) - Its a pick-up a 110 pickup but I have the same need for good grip and brakes, it seldom loaded hard but does tow once in a while - I have the spare tyre hanging over the back on a carrier to get some weight at the back! Sorry - that was all a bit long winded What Tyre Pressures should I run ?

I've finally got an NAS rear step on the back of my new Land Rover 110 Utility, but the actual reality is dawning on me – How do I fit my Dixson Bate adjustable hitch? I have 2 different trailers one quite high coupling one quite low, and the 2 works ifor Williams which are in between. On my very first land-Rover I had an adjustable hitch we made from channel, but knowing no better we made what would normally be the Slider fixed to the cross member, and the ‘Ladder’ part the bit that moved up or down – One great (and unforeseen) advantage was that when you took the Ladder bit off, you no longer ploughed the ‘land’ bit between the ruts.

MY daily drive often involves fog or mist - I need Fog lamps - can DRLs work as Fog Lamps? how would you wire them?

Id really like to tap into anyone's experience of fitting Indicators. sidelight / marker lights or repeaters in Wing Mirrors ? What did you use - how did it fit - what worked - what didn't - how would you do it differently if you did it again ?

Possibly a dumb question - But Can DRLs work effectively as Fog Lamps?

If you were really lucky - and had a 'spare' defender - 110 just to drive to work and back - and its winter, and you are not going to off-road this one (because you have another 110 so in fact you would like to keep this one On-Road) What Winter Tyres would you fit (and is there anything else you think would be worth fitting?

LED Tail Brake and Turn indicators at High level Are there ‘standard Land-Rover’ like – LED rear light fittings that are surface mounting? Id like to fit LED Tail Brake and Turn indicators at High level – Mainly because:- The trailers I tow have unreliable electrics – so if you have high level lighting on the back end you have visibility ( and a slightly reduced risk of getting pulled-over) Because in bad weather standard Land-Rover rear lighting is inadequate – and you don’t get tail-ended. Ive done this many times, using standard Land-Rover rear light fittings with std bulbs - but if there was an option to use LED units without the need to drill over sized holes Id like to take that Does anybody have any good suggestions? Thanks

Completely agree