Oakmaster

All I can say is the XS (with Cold Climate pack - heated screen and arse-burners) is worth every single penny - So much so that Im busy trying to ugrade my 1989 110 V8 to match my XS - I can do without the Air con and electric windows - but although my Puma is very nice - my 1989 110 V8 makes me feel like a 'proper' Landy Lover (I dont even have a radio in it!)

Ive got a 3.5 V8 bolted to an LT85 in my 110 - What other V8s (and out of which donor vehicles) would be a stright swap? Thanks

anybody got any good advice about how you can get indicators in wing mirrors?

Does anybody remember approximately when they started selling premium diesel ?

Ive had a couple of V8 3.5s on the first like 'Deep' above I had a Stage One V8 with a good 3.5 V8. I changed the transfer gears for Range Rover ones (this being an LT95 box) looking for better economy (LOL) and less frantic cruising Later, I also fitted 255/85 tyres. - and then an overdrive (RRC Type this being an LT95 box) this was too much, so I took the RRC transfer gears out and kept the over drive - this was the perfect solution. my 110 V8 3.5 on carbs with an LT 85 (and a GKN overdrive - Not working) seems over geared (even without the overdrive) So Id be interested to hear what the improvement was with the 3.9 Efi Personally Id never be without an overdrive (a matter of personal preference) because it allows you to split the gears, use a lower ratio transfer box, and retain an easy top cruising speed.

Another vote for the 255/85/16s perfect size - (im putting a set with FC/ 1 Ton rims on Fleaby on Friday - but the tyres are past their best!)

Reviving an old topic - Out of all the things I did to improve fuel economy - fitting a Vacuum gauge was the most effective (and by far the cheapest) - yo dont seem to see them around anymore, - would you be able to substitute a Boot Gauge? do they cover the same range? (or is this another really dumb question?)

Having seen a NAS Rear tow Step, being taken off that just fell to pieces as it was so rotten – does anybody on here of anyone who makes a galvanised version? Ive been looking but seem to have gone screen blind. thanks

Does anyone have any experience of a really good make of integrated GPS / Dash Cam? Do they also do other functions like speed trap radar detecting? Hands-free phone? Id like a single gadget to do everything, and you can tell by the way I’ve posed the question – I don’t know much about the subject !

This has happened to me twice - I got a Td5 with 49 miles on the clock, and a Puma with 27 - both from main dealers http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-27342693

"I would think that anyone buying a sports car or performance vehicle would expect that almost as a given" well yes we might think that - but for every boy racer there are plenty of the Mid Life Crisis brigade who buy their silly sports speedster and drive it very carefully My Puma is my daily driver, and I'm quite conservative driving it - My 110 V8 isn't and I don't (and if its warm and dry its the 1955 85" driving choices are quite limited) Sorry dont mean to show off!

Does anyone know whether the ECU on a Puma TDCi can be interrogated to see what the driving style history is? An acquaintance of mine recently bought a second-hand but relatively recent Porsche, and had an independent inspector check them over. He was able to tell that 2 of them (contrary to what the seller was saying) had been on track days and had the nuts revved off them.

That's a very helpful answer - Thank you, Having posted I thought I should check my sources - and discovered that most of the negativity was from the USA - so I'll investigate, bit mainly they don't seem to like Continental full stop I'd like my 110 to look less like a Monster Truck so I might take advantage of the 'new Take-offs'

It seems that we dont like Continental Cross Contact tyres - just judging from the numbers of 'new Take-Offs and various negative comments on facebook? Why is this? Does anyone have any direct experience that would merit their bad reputation? Im getting a bit weary of my 255 85 Mud Campaigners for everyday commuting so for someone wanting a road tyre what would you recomend? specifically I need good breaking / stopping on tarmac, how would the BFGoodrich TR compare to the Continental Cross Contact tyre now seeming being fitted by JLR as standard? cheers

(note to self: Dont post stuff when you have just come back form the Pub!)

UM .......? what is CALTEX and ENGEN? Having had a variety of V8's and been that nob pontificating at the Bar: :" If you want to know the MPG then you shouldn't have bought a Land-rover" , or my favorites, 1) Given that it's going to cost a £5 in petrol Just how much do I need to pass this bloke doing 5 MPH less than I want to go? and 2) V8 v Tedious?: (Tdi) Its Quality of life v Standard of Living Followed by a slight reprise of: " If you want to know the MPG then you shouldn't have bought a Land-rover" We then ending up with a 200 Tdi, followed by a brace of 300 Tdis (and having bought her a really nice 300 Tdi 90 CSW, I got a right shoeing when I came home (having spent less that half as much) in a 110 300 Tdi CSW just because it was the same colour. (There is a point to this honest) SO Fuel - I have a friend, smart educated, but 'close' or careful, of even tight! - He very carefully monitors his fuel use in his VW, and tells me that with the Premium brands BP Ulitima and the Shell Supa-douper He gets more MPG to the point where it outweighs the additional cost of the extra cost, (and he does this very scientifically) But better still - he was told he needed a new injector pump ( a service light came on apparently) but within a few tankfuls of the premium brands this was no longer the case and the VW went on to do another 60,000 taking it well over the 200,000 miles barrier

Yes - not sure I follow the more water is worse argument = surely the bigger the radiator the quicker the heat gets 'radiated' No? My first Landrover purchase (1990) a stage 1 V8 was scarred by it overheating on the M25 within about 5 minutes of collecting it (Friday evening traffic) Ive never got over it! = so when my latest V8 started boiling up in Hereford traffic I was having nasty flash backs. Ive always wanted an oil cooler (for no sane reason!) - but what other options are there? (like cure the cause of the overheating)

As previously said by all the others – It’s not the getting it going that is the problem, its keeping the load under control, not letting it get away from you downhill, losing braking, and not letting it push you over on a corner with adverse camber, and so on. Keep in low box, keep the speed down, get in the right gear before hills (up or down) and so on. I’ve done this with 3 trucks, an extra on the front to help with the uphill sections, (and keep the nose of the truck pointing in the right direction) and a truck on the back to help with the braking downhill (and keep the trailer rolling in the right direction – by holding it back on the bends) When I say “I’ve done this” I should clarify that I was drove the rear truck, and very much was the ‘Junior’ member of this team. (I should also say this wasn't in the UK, and they were not Land-Rovers)

I asked Brewers - who have been very helpful - they said: Good afternoon I have read the communication and I believe the product maybe Bradite DP5, this comes in a wide colour offering, or more likely Bradite EW99 Semi gloss Floor and wall coating suitable for metals, this product is also self priming. I hope this information is what you’re looking for? Regards Robert Gwynne Customer Help Desk Co-ordinator

I like the idea, but I suppose the usual questions about whether it cracks when the chassis flexes and so on - What was the Specification / manufacturer of the paint?

Hereford Galvanisers £150 for shot-blast, acid dip and glav - Richards Chassis nearly £2000 inc bolt-in X-member, & VAT (I had Richards)

No I never got to the bottom of it, last year we tightened-up some loose ratting thing round the fuel filler, (which was contributing to the noises) but the main metallic jingly rattle is still there – The brakes were checked with wheels off at the service – with no obvious faults. Now its becoming windows down season no doubt this will irritate all over again!

Thanks for all the advice - much appreciated

Wheels, Rims, Steel, and Alloy I’ve understood that if you want to use alloy rims you have to have the correct studs (and nuts) But what happens if you want to use steel rims on a vehicle that came with alloys? – do I just use std steel wheel nuts? (is this a really dumb question?)

I think Id like to fit an Anderson Connector to Jumper -to and from my V8 110 what amp rating would you suggest? (I have 2 other Land-Rovers and a VW camper to start!) and what rating for the Battery Isolator? (and where to buy?) And finally - can you / would you use welding cable to make up the jump leads All help appreciated - this is a great group cheers