monkie

When I chopped up my 110 loom on the rewire I did I came across joints that were crimped, soldered and glue lined heat shrinked from manufacture and were still good 32 years on. I replicated these joints as required. The picture below is one such joint with the glue lined heat shrink removed. Edit: since my rewire, I've changed my mind on connectors. I now view them as a potential point of failure and would only use them where absolutely necessary.

I managed to get mine on offer. They also pop up on ebay. Be sure to look out for the ones that accept heatshrink cartridges. Not all do.

I have a Brother P-Touch E300 this. I use the genuine (not cheap) Brother black on white heatshrink cartridges. So far as a test to harsh conditions, I have used it to label all of my guage and sender wiring in hot/oily conditions next to the engine. After a wipe with a cloth the text is still clearly visable and not rubbed off or dergraded. I'm very pleased with it, so going forwards I now use my own wiring colour code of solid wire colours but with a label each end to identify the wire. Tha only thing I would say about it is that if you print labels one at a time you will quickly waste the heatshrink cartridge as it automatically pulls the label through. Instead I make the labels in a batch just leaveing a double space between each one. That way I am getting more label out of a cartridge if that makes sense.

What particular colour are you after? When I did a complete rewire I found Autosparks to have everything I needed. I would recommend getting a lable printer that can print on heat shrink. I use one now and apply a lable at each end of the wire. I found it to be a game changer.

Yes, I agree with you there and that will always be the case on any forum with differing views and opinions (I think we are all civil on this forum compared to many others). However I have not stated there will be instant carnage, these things rarely happen over night. My concern is a general erosion of safety standards. I hope I am wrong on this.

I don't know if this is aimed at my comments, but if so this is taking what I said out of context. It's a fact thay driving is dangerous (like I said previously, it's the only thing that most of us do that could potentially land you in prison for killing someone) towing increases that danger. I'm sure we have all experienced other drivers not giving us space when we are towing because they have no idea that a loaded vehicle pulling a trailer needs extra distance to safely stop. If in the work place for example you have to do something as part of your job that is potentially dangerous, you must take training and have a competency assessment, plus refresher training. Not rely on just being shown the ropes by someone who has done the job for years who themself has not been assessed nor had proper training. I don't think driving should be any different for the safety of everyone, if anything the system should be tightened.

I agree. This is storm that has been brewing since the Blair era in my opinion.

I wonder what insurance companies have to say? I imagine if you have just passed your test and saved up enough to insure yourself you should read the terms and conditions very carefully to see if they cover you for towing irrespective of the law change.

I see what you are saying and I agree that the current rule is daft but you could also say "I've never worn a seat belt and I'm still here". Doesn't mean it is sensible and safe.

Personally I think they should be tightening the requirements. Driving is the only thing most of us do that could land you in prison. I would support a requirement for everyone to have to retake a test every 10 years. That way everyone's competence is reviewed, changes in rules can be communicated and assessed plus it catches people who should no longer be driving because of a deterioration in health through age.

No I am not. I'm sure most people on a 4x4 forum are competent at towing because generally we care about safety. What I am saying is this change in rule is unsafe given many people after passing a test can't even reverse park a Corsa in Tesco car park properly, allowing EVERY driver to go ahead and tow a loaded trailer is madness. It's like saying if the MOT test were to be removed and someone then points out the safety risk of such a move... then a few of us complaining about the person who points out the safety risk because we know how to properly maintain our vehicles to be safe.

As I understand it a number of years ago they stopped automatically allowing you to tow a trailer without an additional test. A wise move. Now they are reversing this. Makes no sense to me from a safety point of view

Yes, I recommend the Clarke 135TE for a beginner DIY Mig welder available from Machine Mart. It's a great little welder for occasional DIY use and a good one to learn with. It can weld steel upto 5mm thick which will easily cope with all DIY jobs on a Land Rover in terms of chassis repair etc. I have even welded aluminium with it by switching the Mig wire and gas. Linky

I agree, my stupidity of driving through floods as a clueless new driver was a lesson in (a) not being so stupid and (b) learning how to fix my car as I didn't have the money to pay someone else to do it for me.

Which end of the loom is this? White is unfused live feed when ignition switch is on. White with black trace is heated rear window. Black is earth. Are you sure that is black, it looks to have a grey/slate/white coloured trace from your picture?

I'm about to enter my 40s - does that make me a millennial? Any way - I drove my first car (1995 Ford Mondeo 1.8TD) through floods thinking "its a diesel, it'll be fine". Got a good lesson in how to swap out bent con rods when I realised water doesn't compress.

Have you seen my thread on this forum here about making my own looms? I went through similar problems and troubleshooting finding what colour wire goes where. I drew up a list of wiring colours used on the land rover wiring looms. I have copied and pasted a post from this thread below with all the correct colour codes I worked out: *Correction to my earlier post. Purple is fused permanent live (not unfused as I had put earlier). I also had missed off brown with red trace for the glowplug feed from ignition switch: G fused ignition on GR left turn signal GW right turn signal GP brake lights GN reverse light GB fuel sender GY heater blower motor switch GS heater blower motor switch LGG oil temperature LGW oil pressure sender LGB screen wash pump LGP trailer warning light LGN hazard switch to flash relay R running lights RO right side/tail RB left side/tail RY rear fog RLG wiper motor RW 12v socket illumination U head lights UO right main US left main UK left dip UB right dip UG wiper motor W unfused live ignition on WR ignition switch to starter relay WO ignition switch to heater blower fuse and radio WB rear window heater WS fuel sender to guage WN oil pressure warning lamp WY hand brake warning light WG Heated rear window switch to relay/dash light P fused permanent live PG fuse to heater blower motor PO seat belt warning light (where fitted) PW interior cab light PU door switch (where fitted) N permanent live from positive terminal bus on starter solenoid NR ignition switch to glowplug relay NLG wiper motor NY charge warning light NLG flasher relay NW fuse to heated rear window relay B earth BU diff lock engaged warning light BW brake warning light BR hazard switch illumination BK heated rear window relay to diode BS heated rear window diode to voltage sensitive switch YB Glowplug Feed from relay

Why are you asking? Are you having some work done and you don't think it is being done right? The no hole head gasket for a 300Tdi is listed as a part number (ERR7154, now LVB500230) but I don't know if it was fitted as standard by land rover. I have always understood that the head gasket thickness is determined by measuring piston protrusion on a Tdi.

....and my old fuse box

Fantastic news that you have it sorted. A test lamp is a great tool for this kind of problem solving.

I hope he has a speedy recovery.

This soubds a bit dodgy to me doing it in any quantity. If you do want to try it and do it properly, after you have separated the petrol from the water it will still be quite wet, you will need to dry the remaining water from the petrol by mixing it with anhydrous magnesium sulphate and then filter it off. Not worth the effort in my opinion.

Other than the fuel hose, what else is it going to damage? I'm sure there will be replacement parts that are compatible. As long as there is demand it will be sold. I can't see the demand dropping off completely like it had for paraffin for many decades yet. Funny you mention paraffin though, I bought some from my local petrol station for my camping stove last weekend. Paid £11 for 5 litres though!

Have you got a Defender? You could always get one and start refurbing it. Some of us have had our Defenders for years and they are still in bits.

Yes, I think they should be made to use the badge "zero emissions - at point of use"