monkie

Thank you both. This is causing me a lot of frustration. @oneandtwo I think all of the above applies. There must be cracks, the strikers are worn, I have cheap door seals. I will look out for some genuine latches on ebay and some 2005 doors as mine are well battered. Really appreciate the advice 👍

Yes they can. Head off, sump off. Remove the big end cap and push the piston from underneath up and out. These are nice easy engines to work on. If you can be with out the vehicle for a couple of weeks then a rebuild will be fun and worthwhile.

I don't know what it would do to a battery long term but they are not designed to do this. If you only do short journies you will be having to charge it up regularly from a mains powered charger. I have 3 alternative ideas for consideration: (1) fit a lesuire battery with split charge system to power your 12v heater and you don't run the risk of draining the main starter battery leaving you stranded. (2) If parked on a drive in reach of a mains Power Point (hopefully you are as you are going to have to plug a charger in regularly for plan A) , put a mains powered heater in the vehicle and turn it on 10 minutes before you leave. (3) look into fitting a diesel powered heater like a Webasto or similar.

I've been driving around with gappy doors for ages, but now it's cold and wet I've made a few adjustments and typical land rover, solved one problem but created a new one. No gaps in my doors, but the doors won't open reliably from either inside or out. I've been adjusted the striker plates but found I either have gaps or doors that won't open properly. My question: is this simply an issue of adjustment and I've got to persiver or is this because my door latches were supplied in a blue box and I need to get the credit card out for a set of genuine latches?

As others have said get an engine stand, it's much safer and easier. I got mine off ebay for just a tenner. I made a sturdy bench for working the head etc and covered it with 3mm sheet steel for about £25 and maybe £15 for the timber.

Oh, just remembered.. Wasn't a land rover but was a diesel cement mixer I got running again. Trapped in the sludge was a load of dead insects kind of mummified in the oil. A ladybird was particularly well preserved!

I've found this to be a problem on any car I've had even brand new ones if parked under trees. Always worth keeping the drains clear.

👆What lo-fi says. Take the head off and inspect bores, head and piston crowns very carefully. Have a good look at the head gasket too before you discard it. Best case is a new head gasket (get a good one like Elring). Even if you need to replace a set of pistons its not the end of the world. Just take care to make measurements and observations as you go. What is the oil consumption like?

I can report I had a mildew free sump 😁

Problem is, I'm as sure as I can be that it was the stuff sold for putting round baths and showers, not engine sumps

To be honest when I do a compression test; I don't focus too much on the actual individual numbers but pay closer attention to (1) the difference between the cylinders (2) difference between the dry readings and the wet. Perform the test when the engine is warm and then review the dry and wet data. You are looking for consistency in the reproducibility of the data you collect here so perform a few readings, remove any outliers and average the numbers.

Bits of silicone sealant that the previous owner liberally applied to the mating surface of the sump and block. It was also partly clogging the oil pump gauze

Instructions here from the book. 👍

Mine won't leak because I've cheated..... Aluminium plate and some dubious aluminium welding

No one likes a show off! 😁

Hold on a minute Ralph, I think you are being a little hasty here. Let's just consider this one more carefully - finally a sunshine roof for your Land Rover you don't have to Sikaflex inplace. I'll buy 2 please

Here is a good explanation of the power pulse technology on the Volvo D5 engine. Sounds like a good compromise to me.

You're right. It called power pulse I think on the D5 diesel. I was looking at that for my next car but the BIK was about £5k pa yet again forcing me down the route of another bloody hybrid.

I think so... "quicker starts" so must have a proven effect on electric motors also. 🤣

.... Oh and its genuine because you wouldn't want any old tat under your bonnet magnetising your fuel.

Wow, big brother is watching me. Look what old classic appeared in my suggested items..... Some very bold claims and woolly language. Not one piece of evidence to back it up. Not to worry folks, it's RoHS compliant (amazing really as it isn't electronic). Oh, and it's CE marked which I can only assume means Chinese Export in this case.....

Yes, I think you are right. Not really a type of car I pay much attention to - but taking over 100 HP to run the superchargers did make my ears prick up. I remember thinking to my self that most Land Rover engines don't make enough power to even run the supercharger on that engine!

I'd say so. I'd be interested to know just how much power one of these that was matched to the engine would use. I think I heard years ago (probably on top gear) that the superchargers on a Maclaren F1 take 120 HP just to run them. The one in the video (I've not watched it yet) looks like it will actually compress the air like a turbo does. The other bunch of carp that I and others have been talking about are just fans at best or more like restrictors at worst!

Ridiculous, if you use a two way socket you will break science and you tank will actually start to refill as you cruise along

Absolutely, it really nasty stuff. I'm amazed that the granules are still for sale to the general public.