monkie

Back in April I changed the brake fluid reservoir as I split the old one. There was a lot of crud in the system. I fitted a new reservoir and bled the whole system. Since then I have noticed the amount of pedal travel seems to be increasing. I have adjusted the rear drum brakes and this made no difference. I also can't see and leaks of brake fluid. The brakes aren't spongy, the fluid was new out of an unopened bottle. I did a search on the forum and one suggestion was a worn master cylinder. This would make sense from the amount of muck that was in the system. What checks can I do to find the problem?

Glad to help. This is not my image, I found it on Google. It shows what I mean about the beer can. It allows you to slide the bearing cap back in place with the T seals installed.

I didn't find it easy with the engine upside down on a stand! I strongly recommend getting a few incase you ruin the first lot. I used an old beer can cut down as guides.

Yes that was me. I've posted two pics below. The first one is of the back of the flywheel housing. You can see the rear crank seal in the pic. If oil is seeping from behind that then I think it could be the T-seals. You can see them in the second pic below that seal the rearmost main bearing cap nearest to the engine stand. They are poking up before I had trimmed them level with the block. Oil blacker than on the dip stick? Are you sure it is not coming from the manifold side of the engine and picking up some soot on the way?

No, the seal is not submerged in oil (providing you haven't over filled the sump) but oil is pumped round under pressure. Have you got a picture? Is oil coming out of the wading plug hole?

Just did a 1 minute Google search and found this example

Oh no, I'm going show ignorance here.... I thought a shock absorber was a type of damper?! Are you a lager or a bitter drinker

Have you got a crank pulley locking tool Richard? I'm happy to lend you mine if you need. I'll be passing through Herts next week. I don't anticipate needing it for a while so it is sitting in my tool chest doing nothing... Along with a long section of scaffold pole for extra leverage

.... Now I'm worried about not applying it to the bolt! So I've looked it up in the manual. No mention of the stuff for the pre tdi engines (phew!). For 200 tdi I have cut and paste the section from the manual, it recommends applying loctite to the bolt but no mention of it on the damper unit....

Ah, I see. No I don't loctite that either. Just make sure it's clean.

I've never used loctite either on my 19J. Just ensured the threads were clean, new bolt if it looks old or knackered, dab of anti seize compound then torque it up as per the manual after having extra spinach for lunch.

Thank you both. I'll come clean and admit that I took the easy/lazy option of asking the collective knowledge on here rather than crawling under my 110 to look for stickers and serial numbers!

Am I correct in thinking that the LT230 transfer box on a standard 1988 Land Rover 110 with the 19J engine fitted is the 1.41 ratio? I'm looking at second hand units and getting confused! I know that Discoveries or other engine types have different ratios, I don't want to get the wrong one! Thanks

It surely can't be me as I'm stuck in the 1980s with the 19J 2.5DT. The 200Tdi hasn't been invented yet in my world, it would give me an attack of the vapours!

I think it would be best to do as Snagger suggests and get everything in full working order, live with it for a year then ask yourself if you still want to go ahead with an engine swap. It will also give you time to figure what is possible with your budget and skill set.

If it left the factory in 1989 with 19J and was upgraded a few years later with a 200tdi upgrade kit, that's still a conversion right?

Glad it's helped, no shame in asking questions. Good luck with the rebuild

Yes that's right. 2 of which are from the alternator and the other 2 go to feed the other circuits, one is the main feed to the ignition switch and the other for the glow plugs if I remember correctly.

Okay I think I get where you are coming from.... The alternator terminals are different on the 300tdi to your 2.5 NA. You need to cut off the plastic plug from your loom and fit ring terminals. This is from memory so I'm more than happy to be corrected on this....... The two thicker brown wires connect to the bigger terminal on your alternator to supply the main positive bus on the starter to the circuits and battery. The thinner brown with yellow trace wire fits onto the middle terminal and the third terminal has nothing as that was for the rev counter I think.

I rebuilt the engine loom for my 1988 110 with a 19J. I have looked up the wiring colours for the loom I made, I'm quite sure the 2.5NA loom is very similar if not the same: Solid Brown (thick) - supply from Alternator to main bus on startermotor White with red trace - to starter motor solenoid (from starter relay) White with grey trace - fuel shut off Green with blue trace - coolant temp sender Black with white trace - oil pressure switch Brown with yellow trace - alternator I'm sure I didn't have the unused green wires in my original loom and I certainly don't now!

It's hard to see all of the colours on your picture but I think it is the following: 1 main terminal to loom 2 starter motor terminal 3 alternator 4 oil pressure sensor 5 coolant temp sensor 6 and 7 I can't make out the wire colours but I am missing the stop solenoid terminal on the fip.

Always good to hear a positive outcome.

Hybrid_From_Hell is who I understand Western is referring to.

In my experience most of the noise comes from body panels acting like a drum skin. The biggest difference I found was in soundproofing the seat box. I painted the underside of the floors and gearbox tunnel with a sound deadening paint from frost, stripped the doors and added sound proofing to the inside of the door skins, and then on the inside of the roof. I used dodo mat with 12mm closed cell foam on top.

I've used dodo mat. Got it from their ebay shop.