monkie

I'm not one for conspiracy theories, however I have also in the past had atleast two fridgefreezers pack up in the run up to Christmas. They just seem to know when to give up for maximum inconvenience!

Here is the picture from oneandtwo's description

Don't know about that specific part, but this may help. It's a link to LR workshop parts diagram.

Carefully rotate the pulley by hand checking for any resistance and watching the rocker moves correctly as you turn the crank.

Its what you are used to. I don't think it would take you long to adjust to it. When you take your foot from the accelerator pedal it will start to regeneratively brake (providing the battery will allow) and the brake light will come on. I think you can adjust the amount of regenerative braking (you can on the PHEV). I used to find it strange when going back to cars without regenerative braking for the first mile or so thinking "why is it not slowing down when I take my foot off the pedal?".

Yes, this was exactly the same for when I had a Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV driving in EV mode.

It depends upon the degree of regenerative braking decided upon where your foot is on the pedal, ie just gently checking your speed or slowing down enough that people behind you need to know. If the battery is at full or near full charge then the regenerative braking isn't available so you are then braking just like any other car.

They really are quite amazing. A friend of mine has got one for work. The amount of energy recovered from regenerative breaking is impressive. I think the R&D will be going into continously developing batteries, not Hydrogen as suggested earlier on. Hydrogen has too many problems: handling (it can escape steel pipes and containers) , storage, low density, production (either energy intensive by splitting water, or high carbon as a byproduct when produced from steam and natural gas). We now need to invest in a big way in nuclear power and we might be on to something.

I've just ordered some stuff to do my first 2020 project - get the doors to close and stay closed properly. Genuine latches, seals and handles plus the X-eng striker plates. It set me back a small fortune - hopefully worth it to have doors that open when I want them to but stay closed when they are supposed to!!

Hang on, he has said 300 Tdi. I think they want to tip forward towards the radiator when the gearbox is not connected: The engine mounts on a factory fitted 300 tdi are in a totally different place to 200 tdi and earlier engines. I'm sure I've seen 300 tdis tipped right forwards with no gearbox when I've been hunting for parts round my local land rover scrap yard. Would it be possible to borrow another engine crane to support the engine whilst you do what you need to with the gearbox?

What was the driver doing at the time of the breakage? That metal looks alot thinner to me than the standard one.

Interesting. Would it sell better in a specialist magazine like tractor and machinery or something like that?

White diesely smoke is quite distinctive by smell, it tends to make your eyes sore too if you stand in a plume of it. I agree that advancing the timing a little is the best/easiest thing to do. If it makes it go away, you have a definite answer! I'd make a mark on the pulley before you make any adjustments so it is easy to go back to where you started if a little adjustment doesn't help.

This smoke on start up is it definitely white as in unburnt fuel or is it a bit grey/blue (thinking valve stem seals)? If it is white and diesely then I would be thinking about FIP timing as you suggest. You can advance the pump a little to see if it goes away. You can buy a set of nozzles for a 300Tdi for about £70, or better still get your diesel specialist to fit new ones and check them for you. A +1 for Beru glow plugs. They are the only brand I'll use.

What about that rusty 110 at the front of your house - has it disappeared yet?

Thank you! You've reminded me of a job to add to the list I keep forgetting. The past two MOTs I had I got an advisory to tighten some slack in front N/S wheel bearing.

Happy New Year everyone. What projects do you have planned for 2020? My rewire has carried over from 2019 as that didn't get done. I'm also going to sort out my doors so they shut properly and finish the sound and thermal insulation to the back of my 110.

I also have never heard of them. I do know BFGs last so well that the cost per mile must be among the best

Who used to watch Pheonox Nights? I like this car alarm.

I was thinking about this the other day. Where have you mounted the meter for running hours - is it in the cab or on the engine? Also how is it looking externally, no oil leaks?

Yes those pistons are fine in your engine (just not the other way round ie putting 12J pistons in a 19J). The only difference as far as I am aware is the TD pistons have a teflon coating on the crown as part of the modifications to cope with heat stress. Piston protrusion is of concern in a direct injection diesel engine like the tdi engines as the measurement dictates the thickness of head gasket. Not the case on your 12J indirect injection engine. You are correct.

I think the OP is referring to the 19J engine? No sensors on this engine feeding a computer. The idea is still valid though for a relay knocking out one of the main feeds like the FIP solenoid or even the glow plugs. You would be woken up by the cranking of the engine at this time of year with no glow plugs!

👆I don't think you can get a better recommendation than this.

You're right but this is the idea of the multiple layers. 15 seconds to bypass that, 30 seconds to remove this, 20 seconds to get past the next thing.... Sod it, just take the one with no security

.... But if its hidden well, its another layer to slow them down. If they want your LR they'll take it, but the idea here is to not make it easy for them. Another top tip that is free is to always park where possible in well lit public places, if cctv is around then all the better.