monkie

I like the simplicity of this solution but are you sure there is clearance for this? I went and a had a look, I think it would be a very tight squeeze.

I wondered if that is the case. I think the only way would be to modify a 19j inlet manifold by blanking off where the turbo feeds straight in and then cutting a new hole in the end and welding a bit off an old intercooler on to accept a hose. If I get the bits I might do a thread on it. Anyone have a knackered tdi intercooler I can chop up?

I've got a small stock of a couple of good 19J heads in my shed. I snap them up if I see them going cheap on ebay with no cracks.

Thanks for that Ralph, there are some parts on ebay I've been looking at. I think fitting a defender 200tdi inlet manifold with the radiator/intercooler unit will give the benefits of reducing the heat stress but not be too intrusive on the stock look of my 19J.

Will a tdi inlet manifold fit onto a 19j to make the fitting of an intercooler easier? It is something I've thought about doing for a while

Thank you for the compliment. Good to find someone else in the fan club! I got a late 19j (1990 I think) and rebuilt it. I paid about £200 for it and spend about 400 or 500 on the rebuild. If you can get a few more months out of yours I would get another one and rebuild it then put in. Keep your old as a spare. Mine is still running great.

I wouldn't have thought a piston will have hit a hot spot unless one has fallen out. They should fit slightly proud of the head face, they are held in place once the head is on the block. Those pistons do look in a bad way though. What year is your engine from? I wouldn't bother with the bottom end unless you really want to. I would just put it all back together to get you going then source a replacement ASAP. Even though I'm one of the very few fans of the 19j and have a rebuilt one, for a daily drive I'd go for a Tdi.

As its your daily drive I would get a new top end gasket set, clean up the head and block. Change the oil and coolant just to get you running again in the short term. Long term, look for a replacement engine, maybe a tdi

When I rebuilt my 19J, I just used red oxide. 3 years on and it still looks great.

^^^^this is your answer.

I used to have the grease in mine. When I replaced the swivel housings, it was the messiest job I have had to do. Everything was covered in grease. I wished at the time that I had oil in there which could be drained out.

Replacement master cylinder (Ferodo) arrived in the post. Fitted this morning and taken on a test drive...... As you thought Ralph, a huge improvement. Pedal travel is now what I consider normal, I can hold it on a hill on the pedal without it slowly sinking to the floor. Thank you both for your advice.

You could put a request in the wanted section of the forum. Someone on here may have a perfectly good one sitting in their garage. There is this one on ebay that is an mod rebuild.

A 2.5 na would be a simple engine to fit in. People often remove perfectly good ones in search of more power. You might even be able to find an ex mod one that has been rebuilt. They are slow but they are a plodder, reliable and strong engines. Would also make your LR have that stock look which is my personal preference.

I think this is really a question that only you can answer as the options available are only limited by your budget, ability and imagination. We can just talk you through some of the options or give opinions.... Another 4 cylinder Land Rover diesel: 200 or 300 Tdi if you are happy with a standard replacement. Engines are cheap and freely available. A 2.5 petrol engine? A bit more work and money, Td5. More work, money and imagination: a non Land Rover diesel/petrol engine. Even more work, money, imagination and power: a cumins 6 cylinder diesel.

I've ordered the ferodo master cylinder. I'll fit it at the weekend and see if there is an improvement. My new fluid reservoir has got black crud in the bottom so I'm sure the seals are breaking down.

Thank you, I had a look for my options and can only find the Ferrodo one. I did however find it much cheaper on LRSeries site. I'm going to get it and see how I get on. Is it a bolt on replacement, or do I have to make adjustments to the servo pushrod?

I had a look at the rubber hoses while someone pumped the brake pedal and all is in order. Regarding the pushrod: I haven't made any adjustment yet, but would this explain a gradual deterioration over a few months which I think is getting worse? Given Ralph's comment of black residue in the old reservoir coming from deteriorated seals and the fact that I noticed corrosion in the master cylinder, do you agree that this would be a wise move: https://www.paddockspares.com/nrc8690g-brake-master-cylinder-110-130-non-abs-to-ha901219-trw-lucas.html

When I'm driving around Somerset not that many land rover drivers wave as they tend to be contractors or farm vehicles. When I'm visiting family and friends in either Southampton or Newbury, almost all Land Rover drivers (older discoveries included) give me a wave in my 110.

The one I use is great. Been on the engine from when I rebuilt it a couple of years ago and no leaks. I followed the instructions and smeared a small amount on the gasket. This is different to the types that harden like the RTV type for sealing oil sumps where no gasket is recommended.

Those caps are in tight. You might need to carefully prise them out once the two bolts are slack. Leave the bolts in a loose so when the cap comes free it doesn't fly off and hit you in the face! Be careful of the crank journal and bearing shells once the cap is off to avoid damage. I haven't used the cork type. I got the rubber type. The cap is so tight fitting that you will catch the seals on the block when you put the cap back in. That's why you need something like the beer tin to help guide them over the edge of the block where the bearing cap sits. Good luck!

Thats a good tip. I'll give it a try.

Thanks Ralph. I think the cylinder is original. I've done nothing to it in the 10 years I've had it. The fluid was black and the seals from the old reservoir were in a right state. On reflection I probably should have replaced the lot, but I don't just want to start randomly throwing new parts at it without understanding the problem.

I think so. I haven't used hylomar blue, but this stuff is a non setting compound that is oil and coolant resistant. I. Got it off the shelf in Halfords on my trade card.

I use this stuff sparingly.