monkie

Here you go, ignore the first post directing you to the LRO forum (now dead).

It would be intereting to hear about it to see if it does help in the real world on a 19J - I remain to be convinced that an intercooler would make a significant difference in this case. However I think regular servicing and sympathetic driving go along way to get more life out of any engine, especially the 19J. The other thing to consider is to lower the boost pressure a little. I have done this and also fitted the military 2.5NA cyclonic breather to my 19J to protect the air filter from getting clogged with oil. I think the breather system even on the later 19J engines still had scope for improvement to something more like on the Tdi engines.

Here is a picture of one of my pistons that had a hairline crack in it, you have to look closely. It is down the middle starting just to the right of the tip of the V-shaped mark in the crown. The other picture is of a crack between the valve seats which is a common place for these heads to crack. To add to Snagger's post and to underline a comment I made in a previous post, I would strongly recommend replacing the injectors for reconditioned ones then give it a good service changing the oil and filters. These engines do not cope well with neglect interms of infrequent oil changes. Hot spots arising from none uniform combustion caused by dirty/worn injectors can cause the problem of cracked heads and pistons.

Part numbers: Standard size piston with rings - ETC8670 Elring head gasket - ERR3618 I would also recommend getting a set of recon injectors to help keep it running sweet as bad combustion from dirty injectors can contribute to cracking pistons. http://www.paddockspares.com/564332r-injector-recon-late-sold-on-an-exchange-basis-price-includes-12-50-gbpexc-vat-surcharge.html

As Snagger says about bore wear, I was quite surprised to measure almost no wear in the bores on mine during the rebuild so I just honed them. At the time I couldn't obtain standard size AE pistons so I had to use pattern parts - if they fail prematurely I will just have to take it on the chin. Just make sure that they are for the 19J and not the 12J. (The 19J pistons have a teflon surface to cope with the stress of turbo charging). I'm not sure if the AE pistons for this engine are readily available. Also make sure you use the Elring composit head gasket rather than the metal laminated one. You can probably tell (given I threw money into rebuilding one) that I am in the minority here and I am a fan of the 19J. It's a fact that the Tdi is a better designed, more efficient engine; but it should it be as it a more modern design. The 2.5 DT (19J) was last in a series of developments of Land Rover's indirect injection diesels and is essentially a 2.5NA (12J) with a turbo (no intercooler) added. The original ones didn't take the stress of having a turbo very well, they craked pistons, heads and blocks, plus the primative crankcase breathing system was not sufficient (oil would be pushed into the air intake, destroying the engine) forcing Land Rover to sort it out as the Tdi (in development) was a while from being in production. Land Rover modified the block, pistons, valves and breather system to improve the problems. 19J engines left in use now should be of the improved design with the older ones being taken out a few years ago now as failed units. In my view these later engines (as yours seems to be) are worth repairing if you like originality, it would be a shame to see them all ripped out and replaced with an ex-discovery lump. I also like my cab being quieter than when a Tdi was hammering away on a cold morning! If however I wanted a Land Rover for more than just pottering about in and used it for work - I would choose one with a more modern engine. Then again I would probably just have a transit van, but where's the fun in that?

Hi, welcome to the forum. I rebuilt one of these engines 18 months ago and put the write up on here, but photobucket went wrong and the pictures are gone - I'll fix it. These enignes have a bad reputation that is well documented if you google 19J engine. The early ones were a disaster but land rover made improvements in the late 1980's and it is these improved ones that are left running today. What tends to happen is these engines crack pistons, this raises crank pressure, pushes oil out of the breather, soaks the airfilter until they run to destruction on their own oil if left to it. With the pistons still in situ, you can only really inspect the crowns. Clean them up and look very carefully for cracks, they could be just hairline when cold. Also pay close attention to the head, they can crack between the valves where the metal is thinest. The combustion chambers in the head also crack.

Just one other thing.... you aren't allowed to park in multi storey car parks any more

A pair of overals and some gloves so you don't ruin your clothes. Also, I've just got myself one of these rechargable work lights because Land Rovers tend to go wrong in the dark: https://www.screwfix.com/p/luceco-led-usb-rechargeable-site-light-10w-5v/5276k

12 months? I would be contacting the supplier for comment, hardly seems fit for purpose to me irrespective of any warranty period.

Some of the vehicles might look untouched but you can't really tell just from looking at pictures, the heat must have been incredible. But, if some did survive with little or no damage at the top of the car park, how do you get them out of there without damaging them, it looks like they couldn't be driven out! That vehicle in the distance doesn't look like right for a Defender to me, the rear wheel is too far back. I think it is either a small van or maybe something like a Kia Soul?

I'm sure you can replace a few things on the starter motor including the solenoid but personally I would save the bother and replaced the whole unit for around £120.

Ah yes, you did say in your second post - I missed it, sorry. The fact that you gave the starter a tap then it worked makes me think Bowie is right in terms of the starter solenoid, and the noise you could hear was the motor spinning while it was not engaged with engine. The turbo is red herring in my opinion.

A sprinkler system inside a residential or office building where the fire is going to paper, furniure etc and people may get trapped; then absolutley a good idea. However I don't have enough knowledge about fire saftey systems to be able see how a sprinkler system for example would do much to stop a carpark fire like this one in Liverpool where cars are packed in tightly together (I was in this very carpark only 2 months ago). As a vehicle fire will start either within the cab area or under the bonnet where water from a spinkler system won't get at it until the fire has become fierce and by which time it will undoubtidly be spreading to other cars next to it in a chain reaction as happened here. Also once petrol and diesel have started to become involved wouldn't water just make things worse unless it was a foam system? I would love to have bigger car park spaces in the UK, but I can't see that ever happening given how expensive land is and how many cars there are on the roads. As Bowie says, car park fires like this are seemingly uncommon (in the UK at least) and luckily people can get out in time so I can't really see much changing as a result of this fire. It is extremely fortunate that the damage caused by this fire was limited to property and not life.

What engine is it? I don't understand how the turbo could be spinning if the engine didn't even turn over.

I can't remember this sort of thing happening in a UK car park, but I remember this fire under a motorway bridge happening in Rouen, France a few years ago. I was driving to Le Mans for the 24 hr race, on the way there I had to go on diversion through Rouen because the tanker caught fire under a motorway bridge and caused a lot of damage to it. Repairing a motorway bridge must also have been a good claim on the insurance!

There's only one problem with having the white lettering facing in as Mutley's picture above proves.... When you catch a glimpse of the white lettering on the inside, it looks like you have accidentally gone out with your clothes inside out!

I run a tap through the threads then a die over the bolt if I am reusing it to make sure it is clean, reassemble with a touch of copper grease (unless it is a bolt to be thread locked inplace) then use a torque wrench set to the correct torque so that next time I don't have a fight - so far this has held up good for me.

It also looks like it has cracked between the valve seat and the injector port. £200 seems to be the going rate for a secondhand 200Tdi head off ebay. It is a gamble, but I got a good secondhand head for my 19J off ebay and took it to a local engineering shop to be skimmed and tested for peace of mind. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-rover-defender-discovery-200tdi-cylinder-head-off-road-engine-series/182984829654?hash=item2a9abeead6:g:kVkAAOSwFb5aN5~n If you don't want to gamble then Turners for example charge £750 with VAT for a head https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/rtc-6896-cylinder-head-complete-c2x20634382

Satisfying result - you can enjoy the new year now!

I think mine smells like a diesel locomotive; a mixture of diesel fuel and gearbox oil. I really need to get round to sorting out the gearbox before the decision is made for me!

I agree with Tanuki, if you follow that description I am very confident that it will work. It is a stroke of luck that it sheared off at the top. My 110 has a bad habbit of favouring studs to be sheared off at the base flush with piece they are screwed into

As Above. I've only ever done this with the engine out and fixed to a stand and filpped upside down as part of a full rebuild. I don't think it would be realistic to do with the engine in situ as it would be a gearbox off job. My recommendation would be to go to Land Rover and get genuine seals if you are going to attempt it because ones that come in a blue box are very brittle making the job even more difficult. Get 4 or 6 incase you damage a seal on the first attempt. Here is a link to a thread on here about the subject:

Glad you survived to tell the tale and that there were no spectators in the way! In that second video I am surprised that the injuries aren't worse given the amount of energy involved. A job I always get nervous about is compressing coil springs, never had one let go but I bet one would ruin you if it did.

I hit one years ago when I used to have an old Ford Mondeo, it bust the radiator and I reckon I was only going about 40 mph. It's amazing what damage a seemingly soft object can do.

Thanks for the input, I'm not trying to be smart, this is a serious subject about protecting Land Rovers from theives. Your post made me think that you are right, a theif could open the door, lift the passenger seat and bridge the terminals with fencing or barbed wire from a hedge or just a screwdriver. This is why I came up with the box idea, but only for the negative terminal.