monkie

I agree with the above. It might also be an idea to just buy the cam seal given they are not that expensive just in case you find it is leaking. It would be annoying to say the least to get the timing cover off, discover the seal does need replacing and then have to order it, wait and pay twice for delivery. Your shopping list is growing

Yes to the crank seal. This is what I would get for the job: Dayco belt OEM tensioner OEM/genuine Crank dust seal for timing cover OEM/genuine front crank seal Waterpump gasket If the cam seal shows no sign of leaking leaking then I'd leave it. Just incase you've missed it, there is an excellent how-to-guide on here in the tecnical archive:

Realy interesting thread, good write up on how you took it apart. I've often been tempted to look at getting an overdrive and this has rekindled that thought, although as said above the roamerdrive at £1,600 quickly puts cold water on that idea. I can't find any new GKN units for sale, so I presume they are no longer made. When were these in production?

Great news that you found the cause. I would imagine that the push rods would be bent, even at cranking speed. Bent push rods would explain why the valve gaps were way off. Have you taken the push rods out to check them?

Hi Richard, I had this on the front doors on my 110. I played around with stuff for ages; making adjustments, oiling the sliding parts, checking alignment of the rods again and again. In the end I bit the bullet and got a new latch mechanism that didn't come in a blue box. I do however seem to remember that it did set me back a few quid but it fixed my problems.

How are you getting on with your starting problems?

You never know, this chap might be willing to sell you one from this non runner: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/defender-200-tdi-engine-spares-or-repair/362313554350?hash=item545b9219ae:g:JmMAAOSwdjha8Muf

I agree with the above. These are relatively simple engines, the only things that can prevent them starting up in my experience when turned over by the starter are: Fuel supply (air in the fuel or faulty injection pump) Inopperative glow plugs Poor compression Timing (valves and or fuel pump) As the glowplugs are getting a 12V supply, my money is on the timing being out; maybe it's slipped a tooth? Did you turn the engine by hand two rotations of the crankshaft and recheck the position of the crank, cam and FIP? I once indvertently started up one of these engines with the valve clearances way out. It ran like a bag of s*** but it did fire up.

So just to recap; you have fuel being issued by the injection pump confimed by cracking the fuel pipe at each injector and you have 12v confirmed at each glow plug? When you did the work, did you take the injectors out for any reason or do anything to the head/valves? (anything that could have deminished the compression) When you turn the engine over does it try to cough and smoke or is it just lifeless?

Was there just one timing mark on the injection pump sproket or two? My 19J has 2 and I can't remember now why there are two marks. Get your multimeter out and see if there is power to the glow plugs when someone holds the ignition key in the pre-heating position. If there is no power, work your way back to the ignition switch. It could be a failed ignition switch or no live feed to it for the glowplugs. Did you connect all of the brown wires to the positive feed on the starter motor terminal as one of those is the main feed to the glowplugs via the ignition switch.

From what you have described I think it is going to be either glow plugs or timing. It think it is easiest to rule out the glow plugs before you have to take the timing cover off to inspect the valve and pump timing. Are you confident that you had the timing right and the belt tensioned correctly?

Are you pre-heating the engine with the glow plugs for 10 seconds? Assuming that it is getting fuel to the injectors as suggested above, I think it will be inopperative glow plugs. Check they are getting power when energised.

No problem. There is a lot of advice around, but I think you can't beat just having a go on a practice piece to develop what gives you good results in the scope of your ability, set up and paint products used.

As a very simple guide, you need to do two main important things: Keep water out of the paint by removing it from the compressed air and keep the gun at a fixed distance at all times from the part you are spraying. I'm not saying this is the only right way, but this is what I do and I have managed quite a good finish at home: Have a water separator on the regulator straight from the compressor as well as a separate inline water separator fitted to the air inlet on the spray gun (you want all water removed from the air or you will get fish eyes in the painted surface). Practice a lot first. You want the paint on heavy enough to stop the orange peel effect but not so heavy that you get a run or a sag - there is a fine balance between the two that takes practice. Keep the gun at a fixed distance from the work piece by keeping your arm straight, don't move your arm in an arc other wise the gun will be close to the work in the middle of sweep and far at the ends resulting in uneven coverage and runs. It may take several coats to get a good finish. The first pass might look awful, but build up the finish in a few passes allowing time for the paint to partially dry before you put the next coat on to avoid running. If spraying a wing for example with a few curves and edges to it, I spray the cureves and edges first then fill in the flat parts. I have found this helps to avoid runs because if you do it the other way round it is hard to get good coverage at the edges without causing runs on the part you have just painted. Afterwards I run gun wash thinners through the gun to clean the gun internally and externally by wiping it down with a rag soaked in thinners. A good place for mail order of panel wipe, thinners, polishes etc is Brighton auto paints: http://www.autopaintsbrighton.com/ It takes a lot of practice but I have atcheived good results at home with practice and patience. It is my preferance to rolling, but you do need more equipment and practice for spraying. I would also strongly advise you to protect your eyes and lungs with a good respirator and pair of goggles. Once happy with the finish - stop! Once dry for a few days I then cut and polish to get a good shine using the Farcela products. Have a go! If it all goes wrong, just let it dry, sand it down and start again.

Once all the flaky stuff is removed and any sanding of filler (if used) is done, I do the final prep using 800grit wet and dry paper with lots of water. Use a sanding block to get a flat finish so you don't put finger marks into the surface. Wash it well with fresh water to remove the sanding residue and clean using panel wipe prior to painting. The thing that always annoys me when painting at home (spray or roller) is I always come back to look at it and at least one fly has managed to get stuck in the paint! It is easier for a DIYer to roller than spray, but a roller finish needs a lot more cutting and polishing at the end in my experience.

Always worth checking, don't assume it will work because its new! Can you hear the solenoid click when you put power to it?

The simplest thing to do is to make sure the 19J is in good health. I would be surprised if many of the weaker ones are left now.

I can't give you an exact weight but I managed to slide it off on my own, would have been much easier with two. Remove the wiring for the rear lights and tow hitch. There are bolts at the back on the chassis, and it it is bolted to the seat box. From memory I also think there are fixings that attach it to the cross members on the chassis. You will certainly need a friend or two to help slide it back on.

I had a 300Tdi for a while with no fan fitted. I got stuck in a traffic queue in summer and was so worried about cooking the engine that I was turning my engine off when I could. The incident prompted me to fit an electric fan asap for peace of mind, never had to worry about the engine temp when stuck in traffic again.

Thanks for that. I'm still convinved that the fuel injection pump is not quite right somewhere, but the thought of having to remove it and send it off to a specialist for testing and any subsequent repair work, I'm going to try out your cheaper solutions first. I put in a double dose of Millers diesel treatment and filled the tank right up on Friday (BP rather than the supermarket stuff). I'll take it for an "Italian tune up" on the A303 when I get a chance to Exeter and back. If that has no effect, I'll exchange the lift pump seeing as I have a new Bearmach one under the drivers seat. If both those fail to improve the situation, I'll be plucking up courage to take the injection pump to a diesel specialist. Any recommendations for a good diesel injection specialist? I remember someone recommending one in the North West (Diesel Jim??).

Funny you mention that, I recently stopped to help a fellow LR owner who was broken down at the side of the road. The cause of his problems was a broken lift pump. It prompted me to buy one and stick it under the seat in my break-down-road-side repair kit I now have following my recent break down caused by a damaged "new" fuel filter. I was so annoyed that I was stuck on the road side for something I could have easily swapped had I had a filter and some basic tools, same applies to the lift pump. Could a failed/failing lift pump really cause black smoke?

Thanks for the response, I think it certainly won't do any harm to try. I have used Millers in the past. But given the injectors are were conditioned and the engine was rebuilt not that long ago I am still pointing the finger at something being out of adjustment rather than dirty. That said I will pick up a bottle of Millers tomorrow.

My 19J 2.5 TD puts out quite a lot of thick sooty black smoke when under load and has done so since I have had it, but I now want to sort it out. To rule out the common causes: I serviced the engine in early February with an oil change and new filters (oil, air and fuel), I recently (a few weeks ago) checked the timing and replaced the belt while I was there, checked and adjusted the tappet clearance and did a compression test. All are spot on and resulted in no change to the smoke. I fitted reconditioned fuel injectors when I rebuilt the engine about 18 months ago. I'm thinking that it must be down to fueling. There is alot of information around for Tdi engines with the Bosch pump, but I can't find much on the 19J with the CAV pump. Is there an adjustment I can make on the injection pump to turn down the fueling a bit? Would it be to do with the boost diaphragm? I have also not got round to checking the turbo boost pressure, this is on the to do list. Any recommendations for an inexpensive pressure gauge to check the boost are welcome.

Any update?

I agree Ralph, and I also don't think switching to petrol or even electric cars are going to save us but unfortunately the people who decide the regulations don't see it that way.