Simon_CSK

Came back from the paint shop with it today and my heart is broken. 😭 The car is absolutely stunning and I need to sell it. 😭😭 I will post some pictures over the weekend.

It may be in OZ where you don't have to deal with wet weather, rust and road salt but here verything seizes up and is a PITA to free off.

I was working on the OS rear which is why I need it redone. SO I know at least one corner is free. Will try freeing up the other three corners tomorrow PM. One wheel at a time.

Brilliant perfect explaination with pictures lol.

It is my local independent and I would sooner do the donkey work and let them do the skilled work than pay them to do it all. Freeing off bolts while being a PITA is not something I want to be charged £65 per hour for.

I am gettin the wheels alined on my D3 and the garage wants me to free off the bolts. What I need to know is. Is it only the rear wheels that adjust? If not how do the front adjust?

I bought a cheap Chinese one from Ebay and mounted the guage in the Dash where the ash tray was. Did the job for less than £10

Si The car is virtually spotless and it looks like the car was in a garage with a dry powder extinguisher to hand when it went up. I have pressure washed the top of the engine this afternoon and jacked it up to look at the inner wing as I noticed the damage when it was loaded on to my trailer by a fork lift. The wiring is toast as is some of the cooling system. I have a complete car with all the spares as I blew a turbo and it wasn't worth fixing. Agree about bridging the wires where possible but on looking at it and feeling around it I beleive that the wiring is too far gone to do that. I have a complete enging bay loom (or two) so I am going to strip out as much damage in the engine bay this weekend to see the extent of the damage. Once I get down to good solid unburnt components then I can think about stripping the donor car. If absolutely necessary I have a working engine just no LH turbo. Firtunately it looks like a dry powder extinguisher was used to smother the fire so would cool down more naturally.

Have had a chance to jack it up and take a couple of shots from under the wheel arch. Think I need a replacement air bag to be on the safe side.

This is probably not the right location however on my D2 I put the sensor on the bottom radiator hose. It saved me cooking the engine more time than I care to remember. When the temperature started to rise above a certain level you knew you were in trouble and switched off the engine.

I will not know until I get the wheel off and start poking. While there was melting of the wheel arch liner I don't know to what extent just yet.

I think it is dry powder as there is a lot of yellow dust under the bonnet. The other projects are now reliant on other people to get finished I should be able to get on with this.

The car is just as valuable in parts as it is as a car. However it only has 88000 on the clock and is absolutely immaculate.

Have bought another TDV8 Sport this time with an engine fire. I have most if not all the parts to fix this but really interest in your thoughts having never done what will essentially be a rewire. It looks like the seat of the fire was to the back on the right. I know there is some wiring damage under the OS front wheel arch and this has taken out the liner. The wires to the pre heater have been toasted as well. Front a very very quick look in the cab there appears no damage under the dash. gut do know the section of the loom goes in both sides of the bulk head which will probably mean removing the dash and the body control unit. The drivers wheel appeared to be sitting at an angle so will need to look at that as well. Possibly some of the bushes got a little fried. I also recon the brake pipes will need looking at as the fluid is low and think it may have boiled off.

Which it passed with two advisories and a minor fault, the fault being a knackered gator, and the advisories a minor exhaust leak and a suspension pipe with a little rust.

Steve It was my first time doing it and as I had the donor car to start with it turned out to be relatively easy. I didn't however do any welding my friend did that. Taking the panel off the donor I needed to remove the rear window which proved to be very difficult end ended up with me taping the glass before I hit is with a hammer. The tinting and wires on the glass were damaged by my efforts. Once the glass was removed I over drilled all the spot welds and prized the joint open with a small chisel. I cut the c and d pillars at the narrowest points, cut a wide section of the wheel arch from the underside and removed the donor panel. Preparing the recipient car was virtually the opposite with the exception of the hammer to the glass where I got a local auto glass fitter to remove and refit. Removing the wing from the recipient was similar but rather than taking large swathes of the wing off I took small stages until the new panel could be offered up and overlaid. Once it was close it was held in place with mole grips and adjusted until the lines were as good as we could get them then held it in place with a few self tapping screws. Welded carefully in place and reglazed. Going for paint a week on Monday and I am typing this while the MOT is taking place.

Blanco Get your point completely and hadn't even considered the cross border situation I was merely thinking about the transportation. Should be easier if it goes to NI first before Eire

I have shipped a car before from Hull to Rotterdam and it was towed on by the shipping company. Mine drives just doesn't have an MOT.

Blanco I am not too far from the Cairnryan Ferry I could trailer mine there 🤪

Bowie Placed and order on Ebay this morning. Was thinking about using these sleeves but soldering the wires together first just to be extra sure of the joint. I haven't seen the car yet am picking it up on Tuesday so I don't know the full extent of the damage other than the 3 photos I have posted.

The section of loom that I need. 36 wires in one bundle and 50 in the other. So that is going to be a heck of a lot of soldering next weekend.

This is the damage.

I was taught to solder by my father so my skills are good as is my wiring skills. I have two full wiring looms however I have chopped some small lenths of wires and plugs off one to sort nother car so I intended to use that to do the temporary repair.

The section of wiring, and I haven't yet seen the burnt wiring, appears to be across the rear of the engine bay. The Section of wiring is within a plastic conduit that is bolted across the lip of the scuttle panel. I removed one this afternoon in a matter of minutes.

My father was a Chartered Electrical Engineer if I even suggested using crimps, and he avoided car electrics like the plauge, he would be spinning in his grave. So you consider a soldered solution a permanent fix?