Simon_CSK

The best I got out of my 4.6 P38 on a run from Glasgow to London was 23 and the computer just tipped it when I stopped for a fill up at Watford Gap. The average I get with my TDV8 sport is 21 and in the current climate I have a couple of Mini Cooper S's which are not a great deal better than the sport the only saving grace is the price difference between petrol and diesel and when on a short run I can get up to 30mpg. Consider putting LPG on the P38 best of both worlds.

I took the battery out to start a D3 today and it worked a treat. The battery could be suspect though.

I parked up my L322 12 months or more ago and it was running fine but the gearbox or torque convertor had failed and needed replaced. Will all of my other toys I parked it up with the intention of getting it sorted sometime soon. Well today was that day. Put a charged battery into the car turned the key and it fired up immediately and despite stuck brakes managed to pull the car forward by about 3 feet. There was no obvious bumps or bangs. The engine sounded lovely. Turned off the key and the car refused to re-fire. I assumed the immobiliser so got the spare keys and the car was loking and unlocking on the remote fine but again would not fire. The dash lights up well but nothing. I did clear the immobiliser and engine faults and nothing new has cropped up so now am at a complete loss as to why it doesn't start.

The TDV6 may be different but in my view I would life the body off the way Land Rover advises.

A while ago I asked the question what would stop the engine being removed from the front of a TDV8 orTDV6 come to that. I cannot find the thread however I now know the answer. My plan was to remove the transfer box this would then allow the engine and box to come out together. That was the theory. So with everything removed at the front of the car and the transfer box taken off. engine mounts removed I got the forklift connected to a strap round the engine and lifted. The first thing that was apparent was that the sump impacted on the right hand drive shaft. So off came the driveshaft and the connection to the diff giving the required access. We then tried again. The engine lifted ok but given the angle we were at it snagged on the bulkhead. As the car was being scrapped this didn't matter to me so we continued the lift and the engine and box were out. The lesson I learned was that LR's suggested method is the only option. I didn't need to save anything however the space to lift and manoeuvre was far too tight and whilst you may get it out there will be a lot of expletives and little chance of getting it back in.

The issue I have found with Range Rover Sports are ACE pumps going, Turbos, and Speedo Head Issues. The ACE pumps can be a pain to get to the turbos are a nightmare and the speedo heads are very simple but very annoying. Vogue L322s are plagued with rust on the subframes and on the bodywork. All are very nice until they go wrong.

In a bid to reduce my hideously large fuel bill and have a little fun I bought this a couple of weeks ago as a non runner from a Police Auction. It needed a lock kit and a drivers door window. Once I got the key she fired up instantly and goes like stink. I really wanted a Cooper S convertible having had a Cooper convertible previously but this was cheap and worth the risk. It is fun to drive and difficult not to plant the boot to the floor.

They cannot be worse than the Scottish ones.

I would suspect if the car isn't starting that it will be the same as the Sport. On the Sport the speedo head is linked to the immobiliser so unless it is talking the same language to the BCU and ECU it will not start as the codes don't match.

I was speaking to someone the other day who advised removing the sump and cleaning out the oil pick up pipe and gauze. It is apparently part of the LR advice for turbo replacements. I have a Sport to do this summer summer so will be interested in the outcome.

Thanks Paul the price of the cars has fallen but the parts will remain the same so I will be able to get my money back out of it quickly I think. The next one is a Turbo swap hopefully.

Well sadly this is the last update. I was trying to change the gearbox ECU last weekend as that is the last major item I thought I needed to do to get it running. In order to remove the gearbox sump I needed to remove the skid plate under the engine. This was probably something I should have done at the very start of the project as it revealed the fire had been down below and burnt and charred pipes and cables at this level too. The upshot being that I would need to remove the body shell and the engine to get to the parts to replace them and it just isn't worth the effort. I am going to break the car for spares. The upside I have vastly more knowledge about the Sport TDV8 engine bay set up than I did before I started so will have more confidence in the future.

Drove to the bank 7 miles away. Filled and bled the day before when I got out of the car there was a trail of water following the arc of my turn.

Greig It was the one at Steve's and it has been inside and out sine then. It is currently outside and I am trying to get a body shell for it but it is proving to be elusive. I really want a donor car and then I can crack on but it needs to be a LHD. Hve come very close recently, once in Glasgow and once in Greece on Rhodes last year.

Yes but it will take me longer to fix the problems because I have nothing else to turn to.

Yes but when I hit a problem I stop and work on another one until I find the solution.

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! My next door neighbour is into Toyotas and he has 30 of them including an original Celica with 51k on the clock un restored and in mint condition.

Will Sold my D2 V8 to Blanco Have a good P38 Have a Good L322 and one for spares Have 2 D3's Have 3 RR Sports TDV8's and two for spares And have just bought a Mini Cooper S How much more stupid do you want me to be

I having problems with my Tdv6 D3 overheating. I have bled it in accordance with the instructions but I know it is blowing water out, have done a sniff test and that was ok. Am loosing the will to live.

Don't want to sell it but would like the money for it. Suppose I can't have my cake and eat it.

I am actively looking for a donor car and found one locally that wasn't for sale and one on Rhodes that also wasn't for sale.

I have 12 at the moment although only 4 are projects one is my P38 that is almost road worthy, two look like they are sold and the rest are spares vehicles. My house is a local landmark which I find very funny.

No she's my Ex because she is a narcissistic b**ch who thought I needed her more than she needed me. Have had a ball since the divorce even thought she left me penniless. Definitely loved the car more than I loved her. Does have some memories. I used it for three years before it was parked up. It was very nice at one stage now it is dissolving slowly. There is just something about it I truly love, black two door classic with chrome bumpers. If I can get a new shell then it would be done reasonably quickly or maybe a 5 year project but would give me something to tinker with. As an investment it would have increased over £1000 in value for every year I have had it. My oldest son is now 20 and I got it before he was born. Do I need the money? Don't get me wrong who couldn't use that kind of money but it isn't high on my list of priorities and I know I will be able to sell it later once it is finished, but I will not.

I have never ever thought about selling it. Even my Ex wife and her mother tried to get me to sell it to people who asked "how much for your jeep mate!" I would then have to change my name here too. It seems just part of me but I would admit the money would be nice.

I have just been offered serious money for my CSK. I have owned it for over 20 years and tbh it is in a very sorry state. The offer was unseen but seemed genuine and would release a lot of cash. The problem is I would just end up with more cars and in reality have enough projects on the go. Thoughts please.