Simon_CSK

You know you are addicted to Land Rovers when.......... your local independent dealer calls you looking for spares.

But did you know that many dealers don't do the body work in house.

Regardless of the clause in the contract they are obliged to have the car repaired by your designated repair shop at least that was the case a few years ago. Because it is your car you have a veto on the repairer and if that is the case then just get quotes for repair from whoever will supply genuine parts. The only issue with that is the insurance will not give you a courtecy car if they have lost control of the repair.

Started it 5 minutes ago after filling the coolant this afternoon. Suspension raised to full height and manged to reverse it about 6 inches. Couldn't reverse any further as it is on my trailer and the steering wheel is not fitted so should be able to reassemble the front end i.e. bumper and intercooler scoop before doing the airbags. Making good progress will soon be ready for painting.

The engine would have been running with the rads impacted on the viscous coupling. That would have pumped some oil out at least and then with the radiator leaking certainly any oil in the radiator would have bled out. I haven't seen any evidence of any fluids when replacing radiators which gives me more confirmation of my theory.

With the engine running I can move the gear lever yes.

Filip The car was in a front end bump and the oil cooler was caved in. I suspect that there is limited oil in the gearbox and therefore that is my next challenge with it when I get time.

And the most obvious answer is transmission fluid in the gearbox after the crash. Need to check that and get it changed.

how do I check that?

It still doesn't go into gear so may need to change the gearbox ECU. Thoughts appreciated.

or the battery had no charge......DOH!!! Started off the key and died. Tried to restart wouldn't go. Left it a couple of minutes fired and ticked over nicely but now have an abundace of faults that I need to clear starting with the suspension and the gearbox. Suspect I need to change the gearbox ecu's and certainly the suspension one. But none of that matters because I have a running TDV8 which is as sweet as a nut and should have most parts available to sort the problems out.

I bought a smashed RR Sport TDV8 2007 with no keys and a 2008 with no engine and have set about putting the two together by basically rebuilding the smashed one as it is low mileage. I took the Body Control Unit, the engine ECU, the ignition switch with the receiver collar and the Instrument cluster and have just moved them across. An awful job but took less time that I initally thought. Reconnected the battery and then tried to fire it up. Nothing the power is there but the dash board will not light up and no error messages. I then plugged in my code reader however it will not make the connection when the ignition is in position 2 the code reader is switching on and off in a cycling motion. First question is are there any other electronic components that I need to shift over and is there a component that needs to be replaced because of the impact?

I have found that the MOT history tells you everything you need to know about the car. I have bought quite a few no runners, without keys and no history but with really clean MOT's and have not been disappointed yet.

the TDV8 I am told by a Range Rover Specialist is bullet proof and a good strong engine. I currently have the Range Rover Sport TDV8's one bought for spares because the engine was blown, one I cannot start yet because I am rebuilding the front end and don't have keys but the third is my daily drive and goes like the wind. The daily driver I have done 1k without problems. My L322 is also a TDV8 with 80k on it and in January the gearbox failed. (Another reason for the Sport TDV8 for the gearbox) I think after 200k everthing is getting a little tired and therefore prone to failure.

My brother has a 2004 Discovery 2 TD5 which he bought new. He is a mechanical engineer so his car he has maintained himself to a very hight standard. He covered the seats, from new, with waterproof seat covers and covered the carpets with off cuts of carpets and a mat. The last time I looked at his MOT history, within the last year, the car had covered 44k. This is a second hand Discovery that I would very much like to buy as it has been impecably maintained and hardly used. He buys Vauxhalls to run around in on a daily basis. I, on the otherhand, don't cover my seats or my carpets and run my cars as necessary covering 30k per year. I really enjoy driving and love driving my toys and enjoying them. I buy cars frequently, tinker with them and sell them on after I have put 5k or so on it. I have a P38 and a Classic for admiring and occasional use but cannot for the life of me imagine why my brother has the Disco and has never had the chance to enjoy it. My P38 was my daily driver as was my CSK until they were "retired" I keep them because I love them and intend to use the P38 as a back up when I get the ECU synced with the BeCM.

Reb I have been buying a few D3's RR Sports and L322's. Most of them are around the 150k mark with a couple at 175k and above. I have run them for about 5k and then sold them on and all of them have been very good cars. Currently I have an L322 with 80k, a L320 with 155k an L320 with 110k (rebuilding) a D3 with 170k a D3 with 185k. Most are in good condition and although they all have issues once sorted some of them will be sold on. I intend to keep the L20 with 110k to use. I think 155k is the longest I want to keep it for which for me is a couple of years. I would never buy a car with more than 190k unless it was for spares but I am noticing more and more cars available with starship mileage.

Thanks Paul.

Thanks for the offer. Went under the car this morning to start welding the chassis, looked at the complexity and decided just to put it on Ebay. Need to take the petrol tank out and I really cannot be bothered with it I have too many other projects to play with.

Am in the process of removing the ACE from my V8 petrol Disco 2. Can anyone tell me either the size or part number for a serpentine belt to fit witout the ACE but with Aircon?

Diana got a gun carriage and horses and Philips wants to be chucked on an old Landie Hmmmm.

Paul I had the front prop on my first P38 fail the day after I had it MOT'd it took out the floor pan and the gearbox so definately worth checking the UJ's even it it isn't them.

Propshaft?

With new lifters leave them submerged in engine oil overnight to allow them to fill the cavity.

You were driving a Land Rover go for the grass, 🙄

I would have a look at the camb shaft. A while ago I rebuilt the complete top end, took the heads off and reground the valves, new camb, timing chain and lifters. Best V8 I ever had.