Simon_CSK

Did some research last night. Unfortunately it is the black part holds the electronic data. Fortunately is is only a locator that has snapped off so I an going to fix it back on with some ultraviolet glue that I bought a while ago.

The gearbox is going into my L322 when I change the torque converter as I know the gearbox works. I did some measurements earlier and recon I needed 30mm of clearance to remove the sump. When I did lift the engine the pipe snapped off as I was a little rough with it. That tells me I need to lift both sides of the engine and cannot leave one side bolted. I then removed the gearbox ECU and have managed to damage a small brown plastic fitting attached to the black electrical connections so my next question is where are the brains of the operation? I suspect they are part of the big metal silver box and the black part is just for the electrical connections.

Garry Thanks for the reply. Having thought about it overnight I have just been out and looked at the engine mount nut and with some puffing and panting managed to remove it. Access was a complete nightmare but that is the way of the Sport. With the nut removed on the off side I am hopeful that I can jack/lift the engine just enough to get access. If need be I will take the nearside engine mount bolt off as well. As this is the donor car I am not putting it back together and the engine is coming out soon anyway. I am going to try and remove it from the front to see if it is possible. I have another Sport waiting in the wings for a Turbo transplant and think it will be better to remove the engine but as I don't have facilities for the body lift it will need to come out of the front. Will let you know how this goes.

......

Mods can you remove this duplicate please?

Ok I give up!! I need to remove the sump from my Range Rover Sport TDV8's gearbox to change the ECU. I have got it dropped but cannot get it out because the tube doesn't doesn't drop low enough is there something I should know about taking it out?

Ok I give up!! I need to remove the sump from my Range Rover Sport TDV8's gearbox to change the ECU. I have got it dropped but cannot get it out because the tube doesn't doesn't drop low enough is there something I should know about taking it out?

New Year and the latest update. Was under the donor vehicle today with the intention of removing the gearbox ECU and this was a complete drama. The first thing I needed to do was remove a heat shield and support frame from the underside. You would think this is easy but you need to remove the selector cable to get to one of the support frame bolts. Then I went to remove the torxs bolts around the perimeter of the filter the five to the front and four to the rear are directly under cross members the rear four requiring the removal of the gearbox support cross member to get access, two of the front bolts relatively east to get to but three middle ones needed removing by ESP because they were so difficult to get to. At this point I was hoping the sump could be manoeuvred out not a chance!! So I think then that I can remove the CAT that is sitting directly under the back of the sump. I got access to and was able to remove one outside bolt the other two I just could not get purchase on. Eventually gave up so tomorrow the intention is to try and get the CATS off and the sump removed so that I can get the ECU out. Then I will need to go through this H*LL again to get the sump off the project to change over the ECU.

I too did the maths on this as I was considering buying a container myself. I have two 3.5 tonne trailers and a TDV8 Range Rover Sport to tow with and the numbers worked on paper so I too agree the set up was legal assuming the lights worked, extending mirrors in place and the 90 could tow 3.5t

.....not forgetting sunburn and welding splash on your skin......

Where do I start........... Replace the gearbox in my L322 and get it MOT'd Finish the FIre Damaged Sport and get it MOT'd Get my D3 SE running Finish my D3 HSE and get it MOT'd Get my P38 running and MOT'd Break my D2 finish breaking my two Sports and get them away while keep looking for a donor car for my CSK to replace the body shell. Hopefully get planning permission for the site I bought at the start of lockdown 2020 and start building houses.

Battery in today and dash lights up but I have a big F on the display and will not crank but there are two things on the immobiliser I have not done. 1. the key innards have not been changes so was holding the transponder to the side of the ignition key 2. The antenna on the ignition switch has not been changed. I will go and investigate the fault codes to see what is coming up.

I think there will be some computer issues. My driver at ATM is one where I replaced the ECU's because I couldn't get a key from LR because of the chip shortage. I have a need to reprogram the headlights and the suspension so expect similar with this project. Today while trying to find the hole for the dip stick with a camera I discovered a breather pipe on the turbo feed pipe needs to be replaced and that is going to be an absolute Bu**er to do because of the location.

Maverik I have spent £250 so far and £160 of that was for knock sensors which the replacement loom, from a later car, doesn't have so whilst they are fitted they are not used and a possible saving. Only the MOT to pay for now.

Here is a list of the parts that I have changed. RH Rocker cover. Heater hoses Inlet manifold and throttle controls 5 injectors Servo and master cylinder. ABS pump Webasto heater Engine bay wiring loom RHF wheel arch liner RHF flexi brake hose RHF ABS sensor Gearbox wiring loom All ECU's EFG valves AIr filter box Steering rack although may get away with a gator Top radiator fan cover Bonnet liner AIr con pipes Felt bulkhead liner. Battery and brake box Engine cover.

Merry Christmas to one and all. We have had a couple of dry days since Christmas so have managed to squeeze in some time on the Sport. After a lot of faf I removed the gearbox cross member to drop the gearbox just enough to change the wiring loom and freed up the selector mechanism. I am now very close to trying to start it after all the work that has been done. I just need to refit the dip stick which I will need my endoscope to find the hole in the block. Once that is done I can put a battery in the car and see if my work has paid off or the car is going to be scrapped. So weather permitting tomorrow I should know if I have a bargain or a very expensive door stop.

Have looked into converting myself with one of my breakers. I think they are a very good prospect as a Tesla £ engine fits in the gearbox space and the endine bay and fuel tank location provides more space than required for the batteries.

I can imagine 5.0 is on my wish list,

It has almost double the BHP of my TDV8's and that is a very interesting prospect because they tend to do very well although I will probably start off with a 4.2 unless I am very lucky.

I have currently 2 TDV6 Disco Threes which I have used minimally without a problem. I have 4 Sport and 1 L322 TDV8 which I have driven more. The TDV8's certainly are better on the road with plenty of ooph. I am looking for a 5.0 petrol Supercharged Sport to play with.

That's evil. 🤣

The air suspension pumps on D3/4 and Sports have three hose attachments. One 4mm one 10mm and one about 12mm. My thinking is the 4mm is the high pressure feed for the system, the 10mm is the air supply from the air dryer and the 12mm is the exhaust. am I correct or talking out of the back of my neck? (As usual before someone else says it)

ApprecIated

That would be great thanks

I am rebuilding a fire damaged Range Rover Sport TDV8. The fire is electrical and has involved removing the main wiring loom in the engine bay. I have most of it now back in place and with very little soldering of the looms. I have however hit a little snag. At the back of the rocker cover there is a vacuum pipe which has a 3 wired plug coming off the back of it. The plug on the donor loom was damaged getting it off and when I cam to remove the plug on the project car it was equally stubborn so rather than strip it out for soldering I thought it would be just as easy to solder insitu. Having bared the two sections of wiring there is a colour discrepancy in fact there isn't any match at all. The project car is March 2007 and the donor is November 2008 The wires are as follows: The loom has Yellow with white trace White with lilac trace Brown with white tract The car has Brown with black trace Blown with black tract Brown with yellow trace. How do I wire these together?