Simon_CSK

My first job is to buy the cottage I have been renting for the last 3 years. Get a Visa for my wife of 3 years to live in the UK. Build a new house in the field. Build a garage and relocate my CSK in it before it dissolves completely. Find a donor vehicle to allow me to start the CSK rebuild. Still require a 1990 2 door shell (so if one of our European friends can help before we fall out (Brexit) I will be eternally grateful). Fit an engine in my green Disco 2. Fit a gearbox in my Mini Cooper Convertible. Change the front axle and gearbox on my Black Disco 2 and do repairs to the body shell. Fix the o rings and heater fans on my Range Rover P38 May even buy another Range Rover to add to my fleet. And if there is time I will do some work to earn money to pay for the above.

Surely the tensioner pulley should take up the slack. Anything else would seem to imply something hasn't gone back together properly.

Why don't you get air valves, two T connectors and some 4mm air pipe and blow them up manually. Also useful if the compressor develops a fault. I inflated mine manually for over a year.

It was but got there in the end.

Just trying to save my personal reg plate 😅

After 3 years and two engine changes the last one being an absolute nightmare my P38 sailed through it's MOT today. Still have some little things to do like a full valet of the interior and new O rings to the heater matrix but at least now I can use it.

I fitted one to an 85 Vogue but when it was installed the whole pulley system was not alinghned before I could start it oone of the valves dropped and I couldn't get the engine to turn a full rotation. I then stripped the engine back and rebuilt the top end and fitted new camb shaft etc. Was a fantastic engine and ran well until I broke the car up.

If you get treads filled with mud either AT or road tyres then they are not going to get traction. AT's have a better grip however when I was trying to get my cars out of my (very muddy) field the disco on road tyres just sat and spun and needed a tractor to finally pull it out. My Range Rover on grabbers generally made better progress but couldn't get over the hump at the gate because of the mud. I left the RR in the field until a heavy frost and it drove out very easily. (I needed the tractor as all my cars were stranded in the field (lol)

The diff lock may actually bo on the transfer box but no means to activate it. I know that the trasfer box on my car doesn'y have it but the gearbox and transfer box that I intend to replace it with has it.

My car gets toast warm and sometime I cannot stand how hot it is in the cab and need to reduce the temperature. I do like it hot most of the time.

The bumper on mine lasted about 2 months. I replaced it and lasted another 2 months so I bougth a steel one that I stuck into a ditch and came out with some scratching. I have the Grabbers on my Range Rover and had a set on a donor Disco 2 that 'I used for 9 months. Never has a problem but have also never tried the BF's so cannot compare.

Would agree on the wheels not worth spendfing money on steels the alloys are well capable. Would suggest General Grabber AT tyres. And replace the front bumper with a steel one either now or after you damage it. They are very easily broken.

In 2007 I bought a New Freelander HSE on PCP.At the end of the deal I was going through a divorce and my business hit very hard times so it had to go. I relaosed that over the period, 3 years, I lost £18000 which was just crazy. I replaced it with a P38 that unfortunatly lasted only 9 months before problems. Had a Mondeo for 9 months before I bought the Disco. I do somewhere between 200 th 30k miles a year and would wipe out the value of a new car. And as you say cost a fortune to keep on the road. I now have a collection of cars and don't loose £6k every year.

Did tin worm get the chassis or was it sold as a road going vehicle? Sadly mine now only has sentimental value. Athough the insurance did recently write it off and paid me out for it.

I just found this from 2015 while looking at some of my old posts. I find it very interesting that we were discussing the merits of a new galv chassis which at that point Dunc described my car as a keeper and I said not necessarily. Just goes to show that 7 years after the initial project I am still reluctant to give up the car and still use it every day and has just passed the 200k mile mark. I do have other cars but this is the main user and I am still very happy with it.

Thanks

That is the littler bu**er I am talking about. Have fitted an o ring and it seems to be holding but am wondering what the correct o ring is.

Easy 12 hours I would wait until daylight when the rain had stopped

Oops dyslexia rools ko The old headlights are next door to useless so I would avoid at all costs. That was the reason I did the conversion. That said there should be no reason why one cannot reverse the process that I did would mean getting th elight box metal work from and older disco.

Did the job recently and can say it was easy and achievable. Need to cut out the old headlight boxes and do some rewiring but it is very straightforward. Much better lighting too with LED bulbs.

The heater return pipe on my Range Rover (P38 4.6) is leaking at the inlet manifold. It there a gasket that fits on this or is it an o ring? Basically how does it seal?

If you do that you need to be sure that you don't forget the new code. I would sooner I can call up Landrover and ask them.

I never noticed any difference

Gary I have changed my engine twice and doubt I kept the Ps the same. Also I have never coded the injectors and both engines have run fine.

Quite often I use my mobile phone to connect digitally. Much better coverage and much better choise.