CwazyWabbit
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Posts posted by CwazyWabbit
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Changing to a 300tdi will mean cutting your lovely galv chassis
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That looks lovely, I like the galv bulkhead and pillars
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I'd have thought considerably more than that but pictures would help
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http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_630.htm
Says ...
A Vehicle Identification Number (VIN or chassis number) is required on all vehicles first used on or after 1 August 1980. except those which are
. kit cars
. amateur built vehicles
and
5. Check that the vehicle is permanently displaying a legible Vehicle Identification Number (this can either be
. on a VIN plate secured to the vehicle. or
. stamped or etched on the vehicle
body or chassis).
Seems clear cut
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The glow plug warning light is apparently fed from fuse number 17 on the 300tdi, have you checked that?
Although I can't see that fuse on the diagram, just in the description
It is on the diagram, I'm just going blind ....
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Ah, sorry. I misunderstood, I incorrectly assumed you had fitted a td5 loom with the dash. Apologies
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Did you modify the TD5 loom? On the TD5 the glow plug relay is energised by the ECU .....
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It's fuse number 3 so one of the middle two as I don't know which way it's numbered. They both happen to be 60 amp to. It's described as the Glow plug timer relay.
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Thanks Mr Freezer, I was looking for that
That really should be cremated for the sake of humanity.
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..... two spare engines then .... just need to develop a quick release system for them
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WellI suppose a spare engine is no harm........
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Did they remove your propshaft to tow you home?
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I obviously need to reinstall Microcat as the Parts catalogue doesn't show the differences in callipers so its a XP Virtual machine install over the weekend.
I have microcat running on vista on my toughbook with a script that changes the date on launch, are you planning on a VM just so you don't have to deal with date changing or is it to do with the admin priv's?
I guess that is a bit OT sorry.
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Master changed and clutch bites like a shark......
I bet changing the master was far easier than taking the clutch out again
Enjoy your Defender again now it is no longer for sale
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Don't those hinges put the headrests through the windshield?
Replace the hinges with a hook style thing and you could tip the seat a bit then just unhook it and lift it out of the way
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Makes sense really if you were hauling silage you may swap tractor and trailer quite a few time in one day.
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This is the closest thing I could find about displaying the wrong registration on a trailer...
it's from the same document listed above..
Fixing of registration plates: works trucks, road rollers and agricultural machines
8.—(1) This regulation applies to works trucks, road rollers and agricultural machines.
(2) A registration plate must be fixed on the vehicle in a vertical position or, where that is
not possible, in a position as close to the vertical as is reasonably practicable—
(a) on both sides of the vehicles, so that the characters of the mark are easily
distinguishable from both sides of the vehicle, or
(b) on the rear of the vehicle, so that the characters of the mark are easily distinguishable
from behind the vehicle, or
© where the vehicle is towing a trailer or trailers and the plate is not fixed on the sides
of the vehicle, on the trailer or the rearmost trailer (as the case may be) so that the
characters of the mark are easily distinguishable from behind the trailer.
(3) Where the towing vehicle is an agricultural machine, a plate fixed on the trailer may,
instead of displaying the registration mark of the towing vehicle, display the mark of any other
agricultural machine kept by the keeper of the towing vehicle.
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Interestingly you are allowed to remove the number plate from you car to put on the trailer instead....
from http://www.britannia-driving-school.co.uk/highwaycode/pdf/uksi_20010561_en.pdf
Fixing of rear registration plates: vehicles registered on or after the relevant date
5.—(1) This regulation applies to vehicles, other than works trucks, road rollers and
agricultural machines, first registered on or after the relevant date.
(2) A registration plate must be fixed on the rear of—
(a) the vehicle, or
(b) where the vehicle is towing a trailer, the trailer, or
© where the vehicle is towing more than one trailer, the rearmost trailer.
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Might also be wiring from the sender, I'd check that before replacing bits.
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X-Defender makes it sound like it used to be one......
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However, what I don't get is if I was to use your 'method' of reading the diagram for a V8 with just PAS and no air con, then I would only get 12 bolts! Stupid Land Rover parts diagram!
Actually it would be 13 bolts (see line with the number 14 at the start) but the non aircon models have a different water pump casting according to that diagram so it may be that 3 less bolts are needed.
I could be wrong, it's just my interpretation of the diagram....
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Oh, oh, seems a 'Land Rover' [police description, not mine] was stolen on Monday night from the next village along. I use an Adrenaline 4x4 pedal lock in the Puma which covers the pedals entirely, it's a bit fiddly to fit and remove [even more so at the moment as my back has gone again and I can hardly walk or bend] and stowage is a concern.
I use the same pedal lock as you Steve and it has already saved my Defender once, stowage is a pain but it will still be used until Si starts selling his 'Defender defender'.
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The only advantage they have over your design is the exercise factor of lifting 15kg up single handed to place on the floor behind your seat while climbing into the drivers seat......
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For an Air Con with PAS that indicates 16 bolts, assuming I read it correctly. I've stuck red squares next to the bolts as I read it.....
Also indicates 16 washers
Air cleaner bracket
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Mr Bond, I can confirm just undoing the two bolts and torquing them back up properly afterwards works fine as I did it earlier on this year when I did my engine swap, I was worried like yourself but have now done a few thousand miles and all is still good
Now where's that big lump of wood I need to touch? 