ToyRoverlander

Or, if you have some.... ok a lot... of extra cash lying around in an old sock or something you could get one of these high steer knuckle kits for the 80series, made by hellfire fabworks. Nice bit of kit, especially awesome for putting them on leaf sprung vehicles. First set of these to land on european soil, and on my doorstep (and yes, europe includes the uk too )

I love the old LandCruisers, such a shame they're so ridiculously expensive, rusty and road tax here is insanely high for the heavy diesels

Because of the large displacement they have lots of off-idle torque which is very nice. In standard form it is noisy and it is indeed very slow. With a turbo it is still noisy, but way more fun to drive and far from slow. They weight I'm not too concerned about. One big drawback is fuel compsumption, which resembles a teenage binge drinker. Anyway, to each their own I suppose .

Especially with a list being that long. That's the 1HDT you're talking about, not the good old 3B. (the 13BT is better actually as it is direct injection so no precup issues, truly trouble free)

Mine? Wasn't meant to be helpfull, just to summarize what was said I'm happy to know that my engine has only got 2 possible issues, the first is the most catastrophic but luckily the rarest problem which is a cracked precup dropping into the cylinder (what happens on 2.5NA as well). The second is that the valve rockers wear out where they touch the valve stem making it difficult to adjust valves and ends up in a bit of a rattly engine. Luckily it will age well despite that. Overall a truly reliable engine unlike any of LR's ofference

So to sum it up, it's cr@p

Get them from a dealer? That gets rid of the annoying thing that parts don't fit... costs a bit more, but saves the hassle

With that lift I think the radius arm will angle down towards the chassis and give pro-dive caracteristics instead of anti-dive. I think it will also reduce under chassis clearance, turning the radius arm mount into an anchor. Don't know what axles you're using, and how wide they are, but I would try to fit the radius arms on top of the axle, next to the springs, and run them to the side of the chassis.

Fitting the engine between front chassis crossmember and the bulkhead might not be the biggest problem, trying to fit everything in front of it while trying to keep the stepped front is another issue. I've got a 4cylinder 3B in it, with the slimmest IC I could find (only an inch thick) and a defender radiator with dual electric fans. There's like 1,5" between the waterpump pulley and the E-fans. I tried all I could to keep the headlights in the rad panel but it just wouldn't fit. I threw the rad panel out and made a new one out of angle iron and the top bit of the old panel. Otherwise it wouldn't fit. The front of the panel sits in it original position,

Just a little bit bigger At least your axles will hold up to the abuse now

Mercedes diesels love to rev!

I wonder how long the autobox will live with the torque of the 606

I'm not familiar with the ZF but wouldn't you need another TC and/or governor as well?

The yellow color doesn't match the bodywork nor the canvas

Kinda difficult on a 4door converted to softtop .... I have to say, this softtop just doesn't line up well. At the windscreen corners it just doesn't want to sit well. Just behind the front doors there's a huge gap between the canvas and the steel frame thing. The rear top corners are more like vent holes, it doesn't want to sit right. I've given up a long time ago. Door seals leave a lot to be desired as well, though it is a lot better than it used to be. The one in the link I posted is not half as good looking as the ones in Pepe le Pews link. The specs are at 80degrees water temp and an X amount of water flow. I'm going to have to measure what would fit. They have some nice options. The one with similar specs as the one I showed in that link was only €126. The next one up, that on its low setting pumps out more heat than the other one at full blast came in at €270 IIRC.

Thanks for all the replies everyone! Don't think that would be much of a problem with my turboed IDI 3B with modified fuel pump. Will be adding an electric coolant heater as well in time for winter, at least it will already be nice and warm when I get in. Good to know those seat heaters also come in 24V, I did'nt know that. I'll keep that in mind for now as I want to change over to P38 seats at one point. These Defender seats I've got now hurt my back on longer journeys. Thanks for that link Eric, will check it out . Sounds like you were lucky .

The thought of a fume curtain has indeed crossed my mind but I wasn't sure how they were mounted. Your pictures cleared that up, thanks. I do see one major issue though. Mine is a 4door converted to sofftop, so it hasn't got the bulkhead behind the seats. So even with a fume curtain there would be something like a 20" gap underneath. That's the other problem with finding a heater, I need it to be able to fit underneath the dash, on top of the trans tunnel (also different due to engine/gearbox conversion). That means I'm stuck to a certain size limit. I thought about making something myself, but I know how good I am at procrastination . Plus, by the time I add up the price of a suitable heater core and the fans (and being stuck with single speed operation), theres not that much difference with an of the shelf unit, I think. The one in the link I posted above was 119pounds, that's not too bad. Those units provide speed contrl as well. Speed control can be built in obviously, but I'm terrible with electrics so not sure on how to do it.

I don't know where that td5 heater box is located, but if it is in the engine compartement then that's a no-go. There's absolutely no room anymore whatsoever. I steel need to find some room for a remote clutch servo. Heated seats would be lovely, I really like them. There's just one issue.... my vehicle is 24V. It does have a 600W invertor in it for 12V, I don't know how much they consume? Joost? Koos Thanks for the link! I'll have to have a look at those. That's the problem, an empty 109 sofftop has a huge space that has basically no insulation. And it's quite drafty inside, so any heater would have to shift some serieus air and heat to compensate. I'm not too fussed about it dragging in inside air inside of fresh outside air. Plenty of that coming in through all the gaps anyway Question, I googled the one you have but I'm getting search results for office stuff. Where are they for sale? I can't seem to find any prices on the whole range.

I have no heater in my drafty softtop 109 and in winter it is not very nice. I've driven around in -20 and it's ridiculously cold. Now before the coming winter I want a decent heater. Not a LR heater, let me say that. I don't want to use a diesel space heater or similar. Then I came across this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Webasto-or-Eberspacher-Temperature-controlled-heat-exchanger-matrix-3-Speed-Fan-/290970793472?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_BoatEquipment_Accessories_SM&hash=item43bf35f600 It produces 4.5kw of heat and shifts 195m3 of air an hour. Sounds like a lot but I haven't got a clue if it actually is a lot.. Any input on this? Let me add, I absolutely hate cold and I want a heater to be able to produce some serieus heat

On mine just as often unfortunately.... Usually I leave them till onroad handling really start to suffer, or it is mot time

Not really

That's how I've mounted them as well. The little for/aft movement the shock makes is tiny compared to the angle the axle makes relative to the chassis on articulation if that makes sense .

Better not take a leaf out then .

Why not remove a few leaves to make them a bit more supple? Unless you carry heavy loads reguraly..

Those are indeed rear springs. I guess they do, as they are longer they don't have to twist as much for a given axle to chassis angle as a short spring. A short spring would offer way more resistance to this twist a lot sooner compared to a long spring. Does give added stability at the extremes of articulation though.