ToyRoverlander

Yes please!

Those sidepanels :hysterical: .... Shiny

Here's the link to the video. Indeed, a bit graphic at the end. Makes you stand waaaay back next time you're close to vehicles being recovered. http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=ec7_1341527931#KUbC211IYTmJbPRt.01

Awesome work!! Really curious how this one is going to end up! I noticed you're using a 700r4, what transfer box is going behind it? I'm looking into grafting a 700r4 onto my turbo 3B, but with the adapter and Tcase behind it it ends up being quite long. Especially the front driveshaft ends up being huge and that restricts the available room for a chassis crossmember... I'd love to see what you come up with, with regards to crossmember and driveshaft.

Yes indeed, that's a nice advantage. With my previous front suspension setup, which was terrible by the way, I needed a huge slip joint in the front driveshaft. The springs were sort of mounted on an angle, sloping down towards the rear. That results in the axle swinging not just downwards but also forwards on droop. It needed a 150mm slipjoint to be able to cope, 100mm was not enough. Totally rediculous. The springs are better setup now when I went to the LC80 axles 4years ago. Still using the same driveshaft though. I'm really curious how O'teunico's front end is going to handle with the front mounted shackles. Mine is quite capable with climbing steep rocky terrain, I never noticed any bouncing or whatever. Or maybe I'm just not noticing it. It does unload a lot, I like to fit a strap to reduce this.

I remember it had something to do with the extended length being so long that it caused driveshaft issues, in particular u-joint angle problems and interference with the chassis crossmember.

So you're staying spring under. Will a 4leaf pack on the rear of an 88 not be a bit too stiff?

True. But I like the torsional resistance as it gives some more springrate and helps stability.

No, it's the polybushes that end up hourglass shaped when viewed as a sideways crossection so to speak. In other words, in the middle of the bush the diameter is still within spec but at the ends the hole has become a lot bigger. Makes it harder to diagnose a crappy bush yet it hurts handling on road. Normally 2leaf parabolic front springs are too soft for a series front end. Yours is a different story as it is a lot lighter as you say. 2 leaf rears would most likely work as well. Add a big heavy winch on a standard engined series and there will not be much space left between the axle and bumpstops with parabolics. I've even a Santana with the 6cylinder diesel in it that literally had only half an inch between axle and bumpstop. Regarding johnny joints or similar, those will not fit. However, there is a company in the US, Alcan springs, that makes leaf spring with 'orbit eyes', basically a johnny joint in the spring eye. This to stop torsional tension in the leafspring.

I noticed that the polybushes would wear out rapidly and the ends of the bush, and still be fairly ok in the middle section. A crossection of the bush along its length would look like an hourglass shape. I think this is due to big torsional stresses being introduced by the spring when it is flexed trying to twist the shackle sideways.

Perhaps. I don't know. I guess it's better to try and not reverse arch them at all. Adding the 3rd leaf sure helped with that. What I do like to add is that it is a good idea to start stockpiling spring bushes as they will be very short lived on the shackle side of the spring. Doesn't matter which ones you use, when using all the flex the springs are capable of with long shocks they fail really quickly. This is due to the swinging motion of the shackle combined with the torsional stress applied to the bush by the spring. Original polybushes lasted a few offroad sessions before being ovalled.

2 leaf front parabolics are almost always too soft. Just about all the one's I've same are almost flat with very little distance between the axle and bumpstop. Bill, I guess I must be lucky then. My brittpart parabolic springs have survived about 5years of severe reverse arching and serious torsion without any issues. I've tried 2leaf rear springs up front. When just fitted it seemed fine but after some more use they sag a lot and need a 3rd leaf.

Dont go with just 2leafs, waaaaay to soft. I wouldnt use anything less than a 3leaf, how arched it ends up depends on the condition of the springs. Mine are fairly flat. If going soa, make your spring perches long, like 25cm long, this helps reduce springwrap. Also, consider raising the front shacklebush and use one-ton shackles. What shocks do you intend to use?

You're right, with a swb it is a different story than with the longer 109. I must admit I totally forgot he was doing this to a swb as apposed to lwb, my bad. Being a swb it takes a bit more thought to not end up with a tall wobbly unstable vehicle. Still doable though. He could even push the axle back a bit, as standard it actually looks likes it's sitting a bit in front of the middle of the wheelwell. I pushed the axle back 2" and it doesn't look out of place though a trained eye will notice it. Push it an inch back and it looks perfect. And as always, best to try and keep the lift as low as possible. Side view of mine. Rear axle pushed back 2", front axle forward 1" . Lift as little as possible, sitting on 35s.

The axle can be put where ever he wants, that just depends on where he positions the springmount. That's doing it properly so it doesn't end up being a danger to others and the only way to do it so it functions properly and by doing it that way it most definately IS worth doing it. People should really have a go in one before knocking it. Done right it makes an incredible difference, in a good way.

Very interesting! Can't wait to see it finalised and in action. I'd love to hear your comments regarding handling on the street and offroad when it is finished. I would suggest fishplating the sides of the chassisrails to add some extra strength at the welds, even if it is for peace of mind. If I look at the fourth picture above one thing I would change is the height of the shackle bush on the chassis, with the same length shackle, so the spring sits higher in the front. That way the spring eyes are more level. Gives the added benefit of the shackles being less exposed and it lifts the front end less.

And yet Toyota took over with the more reliable LandCruiser.

This calculator is quite fantastic, and is easy to use http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

Fair enough . I'll have to look into it...

So in theory it is not that difficult, but in reality it doesn't seem to be so simple for the average person who is not familiar with electronics....

Please explain further . Is it easily done on an otherwise mechanical diesel?

A supercharger sure gives boost from idle but is far less efficient than a turbo. Boyt, what is this standard hybrid turbo you mentioned?

Wikipedia to the rescue http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/ZF_4HP22_transmission

I've been looking into this engine a bit more, it really is an interesting engine. I was just struggling a bit in finding info on what turbo to use to create a low to mid rpm torque monster. The scandinavians put huge hollsets on them to get tons of top end power and torque but those turbos spool late. From what i've read its hard to mechanically control a vgt. A compound setup would be ideal.

I know that at least the 1995-1997 jag xj6 uses it. The 3.2 uses the 4hp22 and the 4.0 uses the 4hp24. I dont know of any more vehicles that use one.