ToyRoverlander

Actually, late 70's Ford F100's have radius arms in the front that are horizontal/slightly sloping down towards the chassis.. so there's probably more to it than just the angle of the radius arms.

LandCruiser 80series, LJ70 as well If I remember correctly and GQ patrols come with part time 4x4 (not all of them mind) and coils all round. So I'd say there's no issue.

That's nuts! Nice axles... bet you will have a hard time breaking on of those!

Interesting, never knew that. I must say I was actually referring to my setup I currently have. On my front suspension bushing life is very short as it has so much articulation.

It will probably help destroy bushes in no time at all. They already have a very short lifespan as it is. I know they use a panhard on old leaf sprung racecars to increase handling.

No worries... his username was plasticbadger. I remember that topic as well. Mine used to be blue haha, it is now a desert sand colour.

That was not me. Mine is on leafs.

With my spring over setup i had bumpsteer because the steering rod was on a steep angle. Very noticeable going over speedbumps as the steering wheel went to the right. I now have high steer on my lc80 axle, steering link is on a very shallow angle now and bumpsteer is gone. Standard leafers have very limited flex on the front axle and the steering rod is close to horizontal. So no bumpsteer. Reducing flex on a triangulated 4link to keep standard steering to avoid bumpsteer is just plain silly. A 3link with panhard would be the answer.

For the people that do understand that would be nice to know though.

No issues with aquaplaning with my 315/75 mickey MTZ's in the retarded amount of rain we have had lately...

I know what you're saying, I kinda got that too from the text. But again, how much of an issue on a Rover with no or a mild lift? The axle doesn't articulate any more (one side up other side down) when the whole axle is at full droop. So that situation hardly ever happens, if it happens at all. Perhaps only with a huge lift when the a-frame is on a steeper angle at ride height. But from what I read earlier in this thread, there are joints available that allow for more movement..

In this first sentence I wonder what you mean with ball joint damage? What ball joints? From the steering? A radius arm setup doesn't flex anywhere near enough to cause such a problem. Then I wonder whether this was still about the rear a-frame... Your text is a bit confusing to me here. Then you mention caster, making me think you're talking about the front. Why would you be concerned about castor with the axle dropped down? Usually when that happens the chassis is hung up on something and you're not moving anyway. It's not like you're driving down the highway with the front raised to max shock extension. If caster is set correct at ride height it will be stable for sure, no matter what caster it has at full droop. Just not seeing the problem here.

I'd rather have the factory forged (?) a-frame with that indistructable balljoint over someone elses construction of which you know not what wallthickness tube is used and what size those balljoints are. And besides that, that frame does nothing differently than the factory a-frame besides looking different. No advantage whatsoever so why bother.

Flex is useless without decent geometry. LR owners seem to like seeing wheels dangle 3feet under their vehicle and think that's the best thing since sliced bread. Especially at the back... Dislocated springs as well..... sigh.. Oh well, not my thing. Others will probably buy it and as long as they like it fine with me.

Hard to say anything about without any info whatsoever. But anything bolt-on is basically made to be easy and convenient, not made to be a good working 4link front end that has good behaviour. Just like the safari guard 3link kit back in the day.. Why bother with a 4link front end anyway. When the rest of the front end is fairly standard you probably wont have room for a double triangulated 4link (and you'd have to have full hydro steering too). A 4link with parallel arms and panhard has no advantages over a 3link with panhard.

I remember you mentioning that before, about shackle location on Rovers compared to other 4x4's regarding climbing ability. I have to say mine climbs very good the way it is with rear shackles. If it's better with front shackles? Perhaps, dont know. The theory behind it makes sense but I can't be bothered to change it to try and find out. If I change anything I would go straight to a 3link. I've never given 1links much thought. I think with a 3link one can try and let it behave the way you want. I would also be more comfortable with more mounting points on the chassis. I'll have to read up on what can be done to reduce or counteract driveshaft torque. I've never noticed it on mine, but perhaps I don't do terrain thats extreme enough.. dunno.. How much of an issue is it really? Not familiar with mog suspension. I haven't got a clue how the torque tube connects to the transferbox, would love to see though..

No way I would use panhard rods for suspension links

I assume you're talking about front suspension, as you mention anti-dive. I wouldn't even bother with a 4link up front. The nicest 4link would be a double triangulated one. That would be practically impossible with an engine in the way. So that would leave a 3link. I'm sure it can be designed to give what you ask for. The jacking on steep climbs can be reduced by keeping the bottom links as flat as possible. The steeped the angle of the bottom link the more it wants to lift to chassis up when the wheel is forced into an obstacle. Same as the rear links do on rovers with ridiculous amounts of droop travel. It it has traction it just pushes the back end up. I don't think you can eliminate it completely, but keeping the links flat helps a ltot. A suckdown winch is another option.

No worries... Sounds like the suspension you're thinking of would suit the needs fine. I'm still questioning the radius arms underneath the chassis though. Guess that will hang real low. Are P38 rear radius arms really made from carbon fibre?? never knew that... I reckon I would be more comfortable with steel ones..

My question was actually for the OP.. but anyways. No axle wrap on mine and no hard ride either. A matter of doing it right . Fitting radius arms underneath the chassis creates an anchor. If it is going on top of the axle anyway why mount it underneath the chassis? What tiresize are you going to run? With a good 3link front and 4link rear you can achieve everything you want, and also be able to built in room for adjustment.

My LC80 axles and the ones from a mate of mine were both 3.73 ratio axles. We swapped diffs to 4.1s. The difference was whether they came from a manual or an auto. Can't remember which got what though. Pics of the S2 on LC80 axles!!! What suspension are you using?

Why radius arms in the first place? You scared of articulation?

Why on earth would one do that ? Way easier to weld on axle brackets and such than doing that...

A mate of mine broke 2 halfshafts and 1 diff centre pin.... on the street! That was when the 3B wasn't even turbocharged yet and 7.50-16 tires . First halfshaft was just ridiculous, he drove of the curb into traffic and when the rear wheel came down it snapped the shaft... We both run dual E-locked LC80 axles now, his is on 35", mine on 33"s.. no issues anymore

Sure there is. But it will choke on higher rpm as it is...well... too small. It will be less efficient at higher rpm (less power/torque) and if the turbo is way too small it will turn too many revs and the turbo will not live long.. Unless you keep engine rpm down.. Thats the downside of a little capacity diesel engine with a turbo. Off-boost there's just hardly any torque, untill the turbo kicks in..