ToyRoverlander

Thanks for the replies so far guys. Going down instead of forward, that's interesting. I'll have to have a look how much room there is for doing that. I can't remember whether the chassis rail sits below the clutch pedal or anywhere really close to it. It would involve placing the pedals in such a way that the throw of the pedals is still correct for the seating position as DeRanged mentioned above. I'm using a Series 3 pedal box with a 80s Range Rover booster and MC crafted onto it which makes for a very long combination. It required cutting the wing and a bit of the bonnet for clearance. So anything being done that involves changing the position of the pedal box has to be done in such a way that all that still fits. Shouldn't be too much of a problem. Reclining the seatback is not an option as, 1) being turned into a trayback (not a challenge style trayback, an aussie style one instead) means there's just no room. And 2, I like the upright seating position. Newer defender seats are better, but still not good. I've driven in them a lot and they're not what I'm looking for. I'll have to have a look later on but I'm sure my knees have plenty of clearance with the lower part of the dash when the footwells are extended. It's a Series 2a dash, they don't stick out a whole lot. And if my legs flatten out as they have more forward room, my knees will go down as well. At least, that's all in theory. With this, you mean lowering the floor panel a bit, then extend that lower part (that angles up) more forward , but make it steeper? And you would tilt them a bit clockwise, looking from the right hand side towards it? Am I right in thinking that how you're suggesting it you create more room by tilting the pedals, moving the slightly forwards in the process? The defender steering column is just a clean, smooth tube with a mount at the end, here's a pic of it. I've got some new inspiration now, will have another look as soon as it is dry..

Trying to pick some brains here and see if someone comes up with a good idea. I already have defender seats, slightly more inboard and as far back as possible. My steering column (defender with aftermarket removable steering wheel) and steering wheel position is perfect as it is now. The steering wheel sits slightly higher than standard and close by. Plenty of room between seat and steering wheel. The problem is, I'm 6'7" more or less and my legs are in an uncomfortable position, basically my knees are pointing way up. This way my upper legs gets no support whatsoever from the seat. So you end up sitting purely on your bum, which gets soar after a while. Also my back hurts after an hours drive. I have to admit, these seats have seen better days. As I would love some more comfy seats I'm thinking of getting hold of some P38 manual seats. Those should be a lot better. I know that, to be able to look out the windscreen instead of looking at the top rail, and not to hit my head on the roof, I need to make a new floor with a lower seatbase. I have no problems with that. There's still a hige problem regarding legroom. My upperlegs will still get no support whatsoever. I don't, and can't, move the seats back further for a couple of reasons. 1) The distance between seat and steering wheel is near ideal as it is now so I would like to keep it that way. 2) when it's a truck cab there's just no room to mount them further back. 3) moving the seats back furhter means you can't even properly look out the side window. Soooooooo, I was thinking, what about butchering the bulkhead to create more legroom. Extending the footwells forwards, pushing the pedals forward by 4" more or less.. So yesterday I had a look under the bonnet to see what would be in the way. I would have to redo my exhaust (again.... 4th fr****ng time), redo brakelines and such but that's easy. It looks like there's plenty of clearance between tire (35's) and an extended footwell. There's just one major issue which I'm having a problem with. That's the steering column. I'm using a defender steering column, coupled to a p38 intermediate shaft going to a P38 steering box. If I extend the footwells the angle of the steering column changes, it gets flatter, which I'm not to keen about. If I fabricate the footwells in such a way that the steering column goes through the footwell, on the inside so to speak, I can keep it at it's current angle. There's just another bigger issue which is the U-joint at the bottom of the steering column... That one would end up inside the footwell, instead of in the engine compartment. That sucks big time, how would you seal that up..... Shortening the intermediate shaft and moving the steering column further forward could perhaps solve that issue but that moves my steering wheel forwards. Perhaps it's an option to lengthen the steering shaft itself and the steering column, to move the U-joint further forward, and shorten the intermediate shaft to get it to fit. I don't really know of many other options.... does anyone happen to know THE solution:) ?

And it helps to run a narrow rim for a given tire width. For a 315/75-16 for instance they recommend a rim width of 8-10", I run them on 7" wide rims, helps to keep them on the rim at low pressure. I never had an issue at 12psi. I wanted a tall tire, I actually wanted 37" but that meant I had to change diff ratios and 17" rims. All in all that would be near 3000euro, which is ridiculous. So I went with 35s, no need to swap rims or diff ratio. Most, or all 35s, come only in a 12.5 (or 315) flavour so not much choice there.

My vehicle is 24V, so I was thinking to wire them in series so they see 12V each. Would that make them heat up as quick as yours? I guess so. I wonder how much amperage these screens draw as my alternator only puts out a measily 25A. You got heated mirrors too?? Where can you get those and how much?

x2, they made me a few as well. Tell them you want the ujoints to be greasable otherwise you get non greasable ones. I did but got a non greasable one anyway . Before they changed their company name I had one made with a 180mm slip joint and the weld that held on the yoke to the splines section failed. It was welded very, very poorly. Had it professionally welded and it's still on the vehicle. The other 2 I had made (and another 2 a mate of mine bought) are still going strong, including CV jointed ones.

I run my 315/75-16 Micky MTZ on 16x7 rims at 22psi on the road and about 12psi offroad. Onroad it rides and handles well, offroad it's an animal. I reckon many people run way to high pressures on the road. Especially when they're still running bias ply tires like the cheap 7.50's which needs way less than a radial. Most of them wear out heaps in the middle. i had that happen to mine when I didn't knew better.

Mine is doing it's job for 2.5 years now without problems. Keeping my fingers crossed .

I tink you're wasting money going with a remote reservoir shock if you're not racing/doing high speed stuff. A good quality gas shock will do more than fine. Bilstein has very good quality shocks and come in various lenghts. May have to alter shock mountings though as the come with an eye-eye configuration. My 5125 series with 14" travel have been doing their job for 5 years now on mine and are still perfect.

Mine has such a thing.. Setting up for first install is very very easy. No need to mess about with shims. Adjusting it is not really needed.

I had mine exit on the right hand side near the rear wheel on my LWB, no damper as everyone said the turbo will do the job of dampening a lot of the noise. Within a week I added a damper as the noise was ridiculous. For a while it was better, but after a while I got sick of the noise (damper gets full of soot) and extended the exhaust all the way back and added an extra damper. Was whisper quiet for a long time, till that damper became full of soot. It's still quiet enough, and does sound rather cool with a nice turbo whistle. No more side exhaust for me , they're horribly noisy.

The groove on that shaft is worn in from the inner axle oil seal riding on it. It's a pesky seal prone to leaking oil into the swivel assembly turning the grease into a gooey mess that leaks out the big wiper seal... I replaced one the other day with a genuine seal and damn it was one flexy seal, very soft rubber. Hopefully it seals better than the non genuine one that was in there.

Good job on the actuator! Small, simple and effective. Would also depend on the state of the brakelines and MC I guess. If they're bad you might as well replumb with a single circuit MC. If they're still good you could fit a T before the flexi line to the axle. Have you seen the size of these things? They're 105mm, way bigger than anything else from Toyota, not to mention LR. Even Patrol CV's aren't this large. There are way stronger aftermarket ones for sale but they might not be a good option for a permanent 4wd vehicle as they seem to be softer than genuine CV's and thus wear quicker.

I don't know which stainless pistons I used but for the seals I would recommend going Genuine. They're cheap and the best quality ones. They can be hard to fit in the best of times, no need to make it more difficult by using parts that don't quite fit.

Nice!

NO! They're an absolutely cr@p engine, the Tdi on the other hand is a way better engine. Do it right, do it once.

Or pink, the ladies will love it

If you really want to lift it you could also take the spring over axle route

Black! Otherwise the color combination looks silly

Here's a good site to give you some ideas http://www.dangerousroads.org/europe/france.html

And you might want to fit power steering as well. Depending on the offset of the rims you might end up with a turning circle bigger than an oil tanker. Series axles are super narrow and the tires hit the springs on full lock when wide tires are fitted all too easily.

This one is 4200W and 200m3/h. I can not believe the stock unit puts out that much air, not from what I've experienced with them compared to this unit. This one works well enough, and it actually physically fits! If it gets really cold I can add a clear plastic sheet to the rollbar to isolate the rear are from the cab.

Have a look at www.autoscout.nl, somewhere at the top you can select another language. Heaps more for sale on that one and I believe you can select more countries as well.

Test... (having some malware or whatever issues, gave funny issues on this site, hence testing) Edit: functions allright again, good!

This heater works well by the way, blows heaps of hot air. Temps need to drop to really be able to test it though

Here's a current listing of rangies up untill 1989 for sale, http://www.marktplaats.nl/z/auto-s/land-rover.html?categoryId=124&searchOnTitleAndDescription=true&attributes=S%2C922&startDateFrom=ALWAYS&yearTo=1989&sortBy=price&sortOrder=increasing