ToyRoverlander

Just had a look at the LR dealer website here and they list the Defender with a starting price of €25.500 ex vat ex bpm... vat is 19%, bpm is 40% !!!!!!! So that's a REAL (private buy) starting price of €42.500. That's for a hardtop 90. The 110 starts at €47.500. Just a little bit more expensive......

Yes. Because a stock front end doesn't flex much at all. With so little flex the bushes can take it easily. When you're allowing it to flex way more dus to longer springs and shocks than it makes sense to put them lengthwise so the shock can rotate around the bolt on articulation. The little fore/aft movement it sees due to the spring getting longer and shorter will be way less movement and can easily be absorbed by the shock bushes. That's how I have it front and back for a few years now, and the shock bushes are still fine.

Correction.... it DEcreases... as the axles moves up, the angle the shocks are in becomes greater and thus the shock becomes less effective.

That will work very nicely! Fit the bolts in-line with the vehicle, front to back. The leafspring doesn't get very much longer/shorter on compression/rebound during normal driving or even when it's articulating. The length difference there is will be easily absorbed by the bushes. At least the shocks can rotate around the bolts when the axle articulates...

Simple.... straight up! That way they perform the best. The greater of an angle they're installed in, the less effective they become. A shock that is on, say a 45 degree angle, has to be much stiffer than a shock that is vertical to give the same results. One advantage from installing on an angle is that you can get away with a shorter shock that doesn't restrict articulation. A vertical shock would need to be longer. But the one installed on an angle needs to be stiffer to compensate. I've got Bilsteins 5125Series with 14" travel. They're 89cm or so extended and 54cm collapsed. And I've mounted mine vertical, front and back. As mine is lifted a fair bit I can get away with them mounted vertical. Those shocks will let the front end flex nicely! Post some pics

Sweet! From what I've been told they were NLA, didn't matter that they're comp use only. Simex and Swampers same story. I was told by the Maxxis importer that those tyres were not allowed to be imported and sold anymore.. Guess this guy knows a backdoor or something..

Can't answer your question but if you can't buy them second hand than good luck trying to get your hands on a set as they're not allowed to be sold anymore due to retarted european laws and regulations...

Been there done that.... I had the exact same problem. I ordered too much and the wrong stuff as well... Usually you can sent stuff back but better check first . Best thing to do is use as little of those silicon hoses as possible, use as much pipe as possible as it doesn't expand like the hoses do under boost. I hated the job of getting it all to fit well...

Mine's a softtop and I didn;t like the idea of not having an roll over protection at all.. I wanted to do a full internal cage but that was not going to work. My head would be too close to the tubework. So it ended up as a rollhoop. That's where I fixed my harnesses onto. Forces, even at 30mph, are HUGE! So the mountings have to be very very solid! Here's lots of info: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Harnesses/ Happy reading

Awesome build! I can really appreciate this sort of builds. It's nice to see something different. Good luck with the project!

Gussets are nice and all but by the time they're big enough it becomes a straight bar basically and thus you lose all the 'benefits' of the z shape. If you're going to make a z-link, ditch that wimpy rover drag link and get something beefy! I used the 80series draglink which is an inch in diameter with a 1/4" wall thickness. Way beefier than that rover stuff. The steering rods I have now are a full 1.5" diameter and 1/4" wall.. Serious stuff... Have a google for bumpsteer, lots of info to be found.. No offence taken Gremlin, I too didn't like the Z-link. I only did it as a temporary thing before I had enough money for the high-steer kit and PAS. I ran it for about 2years without issues.

I used to run a Z-shaped draglink. Without PAS I wasn't worried at all about bending it. But with the current rebuild I've added PAS and I didn't want to run that Z-link anymore as I didn't like the idea of bending it and I didn't like the bumpsteer. I wanted it to handle right! So I added high-steer to my 80Series landcruiser axles. So both the draglink and trackrod are in front of the axle, above the leafsprings. That's what I've done... No aaftermarket options for high-steer on a rover axle though...

It's part of the re-build. So is the turbo. It used to be NA, so it will be a HUGE difference.. I'm getting very curious as to how this will drive. Quick I guess, very quick... Hence the large surface area/low volume attractivemess.. Also, when fitting a bigger intercooler you'd be wise to up the fuel as well. That will probably compensate for any lag that might be created with a larger IC. I guess..

Can you move that full width rad that far over to the drivers side, without a steering box cometing for spacee, that you can fit intercooler pipework on the opposite side? I've got a TD radiator, so full width, but because of the steering box (P38 type) I had to push the rad WAY to the passenger side. It sits right on top of the chassis rail. Series and Defender inner wings are different though, perhaps that makes all the difference... I've got a saab 9000 intercooler in front of the TD rad. Big surface area with low volume, should work very well It sits so far to the passenger side that the pipework goes through the wing.. The other side is a perfect fit, hose wise..

What electronics? unless it's an FTE it's a 1wire diesel. And yes, you can even squeeze out around 230WHP , with a Gturbo, intercooler, big bore exhaust and turned up fuel pump.. Those engines are wicked!

What you have done? You've bought one of the best off road vehicles available! Those 80series are plain awesome! A proper engine with a good drivetrain. Has it got the E-lockers? You planning on fixing it and driving it or transplanting the drivetrain into a LR and finally have a decent drivetrain?

Engine wise I would probably fit a chipped bmw 525TDS motor, or a merc OM616 converted to mechanical pump and turbo. I had the first in an E30 and boy it was QUICK! That, in a lowered Series on street tires would be pretty awesome. No way I would use standard axles though, too unreliable and crappy brakes for what it needs to do. Lower it like that Series I 80" of which pictures have been on this forum.. the one that was practically on the ground... looked awesome! Just to show that ANYTHING is possible.... That's a VW Jetta with an OM616 with mechanical IP with bigger plungers, it gets a Holset HX35 or 55 turbo, huge intercooler, it's got a BMW gearbox with a merc part of the bellhousing welded onto the beemer gearbox. Rear axle is from an E30 bmw... Engine will produce around 450hp/800nm and it will be streetlegal.. Anything is possible... Make that Series WILD!

Thanks! Only thing is that it needs a raised floor, it's now level with the wheelarches. But I'm not too bothered about that. Others might be though..

That's what I did..... a custom made 120ltr aluminium dieseltank. High up and out of harms way. The standard 109 tank sits WAY to vulnerable out back. Made to my spec for 465euro.

Perhaps the pinion nut has worked loose?

I just painted my 109. I used 1 litre to do whole of the outside and bits of the inside that doesn't get covered by carpeting and such. If you were to apply more layers of paint ( I rollered on one thick layer) you might need another can of paint. I went to a hardware store where they mixed my paint (2 litres RAL1001) while I waited. Total price was about 80euro including brushes, roller and stuff like that..

Try to free up the slider see how that goes... In what direction does the diff have play in it? Can you move the flange up and down (like 90degrees on the centreline of the pinion shaft) or rotational play? First one is bad, second one is 'quite normal'. If the first one that would need looking at as well..

Sure you can, but the rear axle is not set up for it (pinion needs to point towards tcase) so you'll get vibrations. Sure your current driveshaft hasn't got bad ujoints or slider? I just have a DC driveshaft made for my 112"

Isuzu builts some of the best diesel engines around... TBH, I much rather have that than an original spec engine..

Perhaps a good alternative: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/NutsandBolts/index.html http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Plumbing/