honitonhobbit

Most modern competition (electric winches) are pulling far more than 250amps under load; and as most are over geared they are under load a lot more

Landroverman is local to me - we have a saying round her. Only a fool buys from Landroverman

I only use Payen or Elring, generally the latter and then I order form the manufacturer. Too many cheap copies in well forged boxes around now

Sold the Mpi Did a load of stuff on the Audi Did a load of stuff to the 200 Now thinking of buying a D22 with a rebuilt engine Got the Auverland to get running then maybe MoT Lets not talk about the V10 Toerag

Also off topic Same with most domesticated animals Steve - but not cats. I find the most complex and difficult is overland travel insurance organised in the UK. It's ridiculous. Most other countries make it really simple

Might I suggest you also look to get some training. RoSPA Bronze, Silver and Gold drops the price down, as does Advanced Motorist Insurance is a game though. I've just had a quote through form my present insurer (Swinton) for Fully Comp on a VW Toerag V10 (05 plate), my wife and I to drive, no nasty bits to pay before we get the moolah. I told them about the chip (370bhp/660ft/lb) and it's cheaper than my 55 plate A4 S Line 2.0Tdi (no mods at all). A4 is £455.00 and the Toerag will be £435.00. Crazy - but I'm happy

I can see it working. Tom Hardy as the lead role - a grizzled Beat Officer, splitting up fighting drunks every night, getting spat on by girls who went out clubbing without their trousers....

Ah yes - Just up from the Five0 Station. Might have to drop in...

We live in God's Chosen Country, the birthplace of civilisation in Northern Europe; the Land Of Eternal Summer. We are gifted. I stay away from WSM as I don't need to score class A drugs or watch drunks fighting ( I can do the later in Bridgwater, in far more salubrious surroundings); but the lure of a new Lidl is so tempting. Is it down by ATS? I find Taunton disappointing. Generally. It's now a NEW town, with 20k homes going up; no decent infrastructure and a lousy access to the M5 (just like WSM then!) I love Bridgy - its eclectic, random , endowed with superb architecture and some of the best Drunk Fighting in Europe. And as you say it's got lots of useful stuff...

Weston Superdrug? You go there?! I try to avoid Weston. I frequent Bridgwater (so much nicer), Street (really nice) and Taunton (no where near as nice as the rapping suggests)

Ben in all three local Lidl and can't find anything except sticks - typical

good welding sticks

I feel your pain... Only reason I would go back to a defender

Partly my point. Those defenders were in prime condition. Well serviced, relatively new, nurtured and no abused. I have a feeling that when the RRC was new it probably was up to the job - just. Read the factory off road driving manual and it often mentions what to do when a vehicle overheats - an expected scenario in the olden days when heavy towing or driving in sunnier climes. And that was pretty much any vehicle - including Toyota, Nissan, Jeep and maybe even, very occasionally G wagen

"Heat Wave for Europe" - Maybe change that to Northern Europe and Scandinavia. Large parts of Russia, Southern Europe, The Balkans and The Peloponnese regularly get higher average temperatures. Slightly O/T (Lord Forbid) but still on cooling. One of the mods we've fitted in the past, to vehicles going to Southern Europe, North Africa etc., if known to suffer from a less than adequate cooling system is the old VM 2.4/2.5 TD rad. I allows the fitting of a standard intercooler but is wider than a Tdi rad. It's also 4 rows deep on the core. It has a particularly free flowing design, with no restrictors in the tanks. Now really hard to get hold of but I occasionally get one in from Spain. A re-core is 200 notes. I don't trust Ali/Plastic rads as there are too many very cheap copies on the market. I collect up original radiators and shrouds and then as required get the radiators refurbished. I don't 'modify' stuff any more. Grown past that point. I'm only interested in reliability. So as it came out of the box - electric or thermocouple - I don't care. Both are excellent if the vehicle is well maintained and not messed about with When I worked for the BGS, I escorted a group of scientists (and the BBC) to the Danakil Depression. A well known warm place. We were in 105 'Cruisers (GS spec) and Land Rover Defender 130's (RoW spec). Standard radiators. Standard pretty much all the way through. Relatively lightly loaded and driven by experienced professional drivers. We were lucky as it was relatively cool and the Fire Winds weren't blowing, so it never went over 56degrees C (it can reach 60+ Degrees C). No overheating, no cooling issues (on the vehicles) - except the Air Con which failed miserably (wouldn't have used it anyway). Just my pennyworth

Nope - it this one It's mentioned in your link

You'll need someone clever to provide you with a link.. Ask Ralph (or Daan). It's worth it

Unreliable viscous couplings are a PITA - had to change mine earlier this year; it wasn't even 24 years old..

Nick, I was under the opinion that your 109 had a 200tdi in it and your RRC, a 300Tdi. If I'm right, then there is your answer. The 200 has a much larger water jacket and it almost too efficient at cooling (if in good condition)

I did some flow bench work on snorkels, for an article, back a few years ago. I found that the Donaldson type, centrifugal tops, work the best. I also found that all that convoluted hose, couplings and such like are not good at all... Jim, did you read Daan's post on intercoolers?

MoVa as we call it - that's cool, I'll browse their web site Dave - B&Q WBP is cr&p. Basically it's NWBP and Wickes delivery to me gaff is 35quid for 5 miles. I need delivery because I'm shy on traileridge and roofrackidge at the moment

It's for my Disco and a trailer so it's not massive O/T; where can I find a sensible supplier of WBP? I want two 8x4 sheets delivered, but the prices for the same stuff vary like crazy - some of it is as expensive as 1088 MP (which I don't need). Any suggestions, please

Yes he did - a very informative and conclusive thread

An odd statement to make when I know you drive rough terrain. An intercooler is working from the moment forced induction takes place - in fact in some cases it works prior. A reduction in input temps by even the tiniest amount equate to additional volume of air. When driving through deep mud, sand, thick gravel, uphill, through deep water and many more situations and intercooler is working to some degree

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