honitonhobbit

What Ralph says should about do Why do the 6x6 conversion? That is one sweet 130

200Tdi 110 with some mods - about 600 miles between fill ups if I leave it until the light comes on; but as that's the best part of 120 notes I tend to fill up more often to soften the blow

Merlin Motorsport at Castle Coombe

Be careful with antifreeze it's addictive to cats then kills them in agony very quickly http://www.acapree.co.uk/screenwash.html?gclid=CI2DtOvXk64CFRR8fAodHneHIQ Buy screenwash in bulk - on line

NFU

I've just replaced a CXV31 with a Lucas VX Supreme (same as Numax) but I've gone for the 27 rather than the 31. The old battery lasted more than 6 years and is still useable (it's on a sidecar combination). My second battery is a Numax LV26MF. £ for lb nothing beats Numax

There's not a lot in it with 10 to 24 spline - common misconception; however a 24spline 4 pinion is different Better to use the 10 spline as a 'fuse' in the set up as it's cheap and easy to replace Driven sensibly a standard 110 set up should last 250k miles and 20+ years. Driven like a complete XXXX it's a different story

Yes but why? 110 axle is the strongest front axle out of the factory and has quite nice brakes Salisbury is generally in the rear unless it's something very heavy and military

I've always like the way some folk in Eastern Europe deal with car theft/security...

Yup 6 cyl turbo - beloved of the the diesel class tractor pulling fraternity, shame really as the 3090 was a nice tractor

Land Rover France made 225bhp without methanol in their test bed 90 Allisport made 200+ (with turbo flames) in Andy's old racer Both reliable Anything is possible with non electrically controlled diesels - the law of fuel combusted! A Massey 3090 can be squeezed up from 110hp to over 1khp with about £5k spent and stay reliable! 155/160bhp is readily achievable on a 200tdi with decent longevity. Combustable gas into inlet manifold is fun though

"all vehicles first registered on or after 01/08/1998 require a type approved 94/20 EC towbar" So yer man's Hi-Cap being a 94/95 reg is fine legally However structurally it would need to be a damned fine bit of fabrication

Yes and no... sorry but that's the best answer. The problem was that they relied on recreational mobile phone sim cards, so signal was important as was useage. Also the shear cost of texting the blessed thing for a location added up like you would not believe. I've still got one here that you can play with if you want... That's why Skytag system works so well. Skytag do deals for serving troops/responders etc

When I was putting together an article on anti-theft/theft detterant stuff for LRM (that never got published!) I was given a number of these GSM/GPS tracker systems to try. They all worked; but some worked very well, one make was brilliant - Skytag. Even got reception in a container in a pile of containers down at the docks. It uses the commercial telecoms band. Worth the money. Same goes for DataTag. The paint is impossible to remove completely so if you put in all over the vehicle then notify the potential thief it's there you will put most of the professionals off. Also tried large descrete micro-chips - again very good to put all over the vehicle and publicise. A professional thief simply doesn't want the hassle The drawback is the opportunist thief. No sense, just impulse; no style. This is where the annoyingly difficult to remove stuff is good; and the immobilisers.

datatag

Skytag

Abou 45 secs to a minute to get to the oint where the wipers clear - that's a single feed 30amp draw, through a 40amp relay and switch off a 1000CCA reserve battery. Mirrors are about 30 seconds. Rear window doesn't bloody work!

Or the various bits RED make that are sold by MM's UK distributor.... I love my TDS; it was one of the very first Goldfish 9.5's brought into the UK. Given to me to break/prove. I did break it but it took a hell of a lot of doing. So I fixed it then gave it hell until it broke again (thnaks to a complete dweeb acting as winch bitch); so that got fixed.... I had RED improve the angles on some of the gears and on the sun gear clutch pin recesses; It runs a Bow2, some rather special brake cones and a few other bits and bobs. One day I will grab a 12k gear set... maybe It's as good as a Ramsey RE10000 or a Husky 10000 for shear abusement and pulling strength, despite the Ramsey and the Husky being so beautifully built Simon is right about 'Uncle' David and the Goldfish, product support is superb. However in this day and age it's worth looking for a deal and Champion have some great distributors as well as a good name in the commercial market. BUT I build up/re-build/service winches as part of my living so I have no worries about product support. Buying a winch off the shelf, it would be foolish not to talk to Mr Bowyer

fill an transparent bottle with water (about half full) remove the sound proofing and place it on it's side on the floor at tickover (wedge it to hold it steady). This gives you a nice cheap vibration measuring device. You can locate centres of vibration. It looks like a Tyranasaurus is tap dancing....

What he said. What you want is grunt and reliablity. Grunt get you out oif situations without breakage of either winch or vehicle, it also gives you better control. Reliability speaks for it's self

the unpleasant vibes are most likely because of the routing of your exhaust. It won't be touching but close proximity causes BAD vibes...

what he said Don't bother with a fuse, just fit a decent cut off switch and a solenoid as a back up 'Kill' switch I would go for the 12k TDS for real world winching.... BUT it's worth looking at the Champion TDS as it's the same as the Goldfish/Maico/Premier and is often a snadge cheaper

Real world answer 2.5 is a nice lump BUT hugely stiffled and massively over engineered. It's easy to tune if you understand petrol, but then a 200Tdi is even easier to tune... SU carb and side draft conversion 10thou off the head Valves re-seated Ported DON'T POLISH THE INLET MANIFOLD Better exhaust Lighten and balance flywheel Lighten, balance and toughride the crank 12% NOS from 1200rpm But why go to this level of work? Standard is about 88bhp when new, you can (without the NOS) run it up to about 130 before a 2.8 stroker kit but it's all in the wrong place unless you chuck it in a lightened racer NOS is fun though - more fun in a 200 mind

Learn to drive the vehicle in standard form first as it's pretty damned impressive, then tweak your suspension, then when you reach the limit of that fit a locker