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Divster

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Posts posted by Divster

  1. Its has been a good while, but i've done 2 at least.

    They are just like a car version, from memory follo the WSM, think you need a puller as the half shaft is locktite'd into the hub.

    DON'T DAMAGE THE ABS SENSOR

    I did try and press one appart and it inverted the bearing cage inside...... Really is non service item. Or someone tell me how???

    Although they are much easier to change than the older versions 90/110 etc. Quicker to change for the comp safari boys etc.

    Hope that helps.

    Cheers

    Oz

    I've managed to get hold of one for £193 inc postage :o:o:o It's on the job list for this weekend if it turns up on time.

    Oz did you use a legged puller or a normal hub puller like this?

  2. Over the past couple of weeks I've been getting an increased amount of squeal from the front o/s wheel hub. Having cleaned the brakes I think the next stop is the hub. Having looked at the WSM it appears that the hub is a non-serviceable item on a D2 (many £££ for replacement item). Having not yet spent much time fiddling with D2 axles, has anyone done this work before???? Any tips????

  3. why can you not get there for the first one then?

    washing your hair or something? or is Trev unable due to a rash from his pink leathers..

    I'm away in the alps ice climbing. I think Trev has got another idea for challenge event clothing. It's to be revealed at the first event we do next year. :ph34r::ph34r::ph34r:

    Back on topic......I'm avaliable to co-drive for this event if anyone's struggling for somebody to fill their passenger seat

  4. I think the missus has gone past the point of caring when it comes to the truck to tell you the truth. Although I'm sure you'd manage to drop me in the s*** as you normally do.

    No progress on the V8 front at the mo (besides getting shot of those orange springs it came on :ph34r: ) I'm to busy gaining brownie points by getting the house finished (or ripped apart further depending on your point of view). Determined it will be ready for next year (although I already know that I can't make the 1st round).

    only kidding, for some reason she was happy for me to go..... not sure whats happening there... some sort of trickey.
    Is the milkman popping round for the weekend???
  5. have not asked yet... but I am sure I will be alloud... but only if I kip on the sofa for a few months.. :D

    is there a good B&B and pub near by.. 'cos I am not sleeping in my tent in december...

    Adrian, if Pigster can't make it I'll come down and bitch for you. It's about time you got a proper co-driver anyway ;);)

  6. and naturally everyone knows who pete is don't they - - - - hmm let me think now..... NO they don't do they Adrian.... :rolleyes::D
    oh! been aloud on the pc have we :lol: don't worry i'll sort out the motor for sunday :ph34r: and ask Lou if your aloud out :lol:

    Handbags at the ready lads...... looks like your going to be on form on Sunday. I should be able to hear the bitching from my house :lol::lol:

  7. I lost my Old Sodbury virginity this weekend. I had to leave at 1400 but I wished I could have stayed longer, I didn't get round half of the site, I wasn't expecting for it to be so big.

    Collected this from Sodbury (although not actually bought there):

    101_0051.jpg

    The previous owner may wish to stay anonimouse.

    Also got a couple of ropey door tops for it to make it a little bit more water tight in the short term. Just got to find myself a noce dry barn to put it into and then it's time to break out the grinder :ph34r::ph34r:

  8. It does sound as if they don't know how to purge the fuel system on the TD5 (which does make me wonder about the quality of the garage). The purging procedure is:

    Leave the ignition of for about 20 seconds. Turn the key to the second stage (at this point you should hear the fuel pump cut in) and wait for around 2 minutes. This should purge any air from the fuel rail. Press the accelerator to a slight amount less than fully depressed. Crank the engine over, keeping the pedal depressed until starting.

    It is the same bleeding procedure as for running out of fuel, air would get into the system either way. I wouldn't have thought that there would have been any damage to the fuel pump, provided the garage haven't been cranking the engine for an excessive amount of time.

  9. I'd check the plastic valve that goes into the servo from the vacuum pipe. Air should only be able to pass one way through this. I had similar symptoms to yours James. I cheked the valve and was quite freely passing both ways. Once it was replaced, the problem was solved.

  10. Cheers

    I have porcelain isolators for each winch

    I'll sort a cut out for the engine/electrics

    that will be far easier to sort than a complete rewire of the winch electrics.

    just need to isolate the starter motor feed/alternator and the fuel injection pump solenoid connection.

    For engine cut off I used a 'Battery Isolation switch with Alternator Protection' from VWP here

  11. Trodden,

    I sold my quite well spec'd truck earlier in the year (and I'm still gutted about it). It went complete with virtually everything I'd bought for it over the previous few years. I'm now at the point where I'm starting to think about building a new challenge truck. I wished that I had taken off alot of the goodies before I sold the old vehicle because I've now got to try and find the money to reivest in parts.

    My advice would that if you know you're going to get another truck at some point, strip off as much as possible (with exception to the cage) and sell for a slightly lower price.

    Dave

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