Ed Poore

Perhaps a bit late now but when we've done short trips to the continent the RAC have been very good. Over if the guys had been an AA Gold Member for 30+ years and they were next to useless. The RAC offer a setup where they will recover your vehicle to the UK irrespective of market value (their cheaper packages would only cover costs to the market value) for not a huge amount. We were looking for a single trip but I seem to remember that for a year the price was comparable to what you've been offered. Although it may have had a limit on the number of trips and/or duration.

I'm not trying to pick holes / fights here just trying to clarify things in case they're construed in the wrong way and also it's an interesting discussion. I'm also using the L322 as a basis rather than Disco because I know it better. You mention 9" of clearance that you need. If I remember correctly the 07MY has around that as standard. You gain another 2" in off road height and another bit, I forget if it's 1 or 2", in super extended mode if it detects getting stuck. A lot of people forget that there's very little to get hung up on on the more modern Land Rovers because of their independent suspension setup. With regards to problematic air suspension the only issue I have had in 4 years of ownership and off-roading it was the front air bags developing a leak but they did have 132000 miles on them. A lot of the issues such as stuck transfer boxes and air suspension issues are because people simply don't use them. I use them probably at least once a week so they get cycled if nothing else. I've off-roaded the 322 alongside a lot of different marques now from Defenders, Discos both old and new, Ford Rangers, Isuzus and once an Amorak. Without a question of a doubt I feel it is by a substantial margin the most capable of them in terms of off road ability. Once you realise to turn off the DSC when off road so you don't restrict engine power and let the electrikery do its thing that is... With thorough servicing and a decent diagnostics tool I don't think its anymore unreliable than competitors. In fact as Mr. Rafferty pointed out on a laning trip they do (perhaps not all) have torque sensing diffs and should not let you break half shafts etc as they'll kill power before that happens. However there are two huge downsides for you. One it's not a pickup and secondly there's naff all in the way of decent tyres for it. It's for that reason that I now use the 110 as my play toy instead of the 322. Three years and pretty much £3k in tyres because the sidewalls are made of cigarette paper. Pete Haylands over on fullfatrr.com has done some serious playing around in his (also trying to sell it currently) and there are more people exploring them as off road / expedition vehicles. If I had more spare time / cash / space to work then I'd like to do more with mine, the first being eliminating the EGRs. As a diesel expedition vehicle the 3.6 sorted most of the issues with unreliable diffs and gearboxes the td6 had. The only issues that seem to recur are due to lack of maintenance and not giving it the beans. The alternator is in a stupid position though! Maybe something to try out when you need even more comfort

That's an interesting view because my 3.6TDV8 with ZF6HP box has 640Nm available and it does have a low range. It pretty much always pulls away in 3rd on the flat or perhaps 2nd if its uphill. I don't think I've ever had it pull away in first in D even with 3.5 tonnes of milling machine and trailer behind it. The 4.4TDV8 (with ZF8HP) which also has a low range has a slightly ridiculous 700Nm available. They are possibly geared higher but given the road manners and gear selection can't be that far off. It does give you far more control off road though with low range available. With regards to comfort have you considered changing the seats in the Disco? I recently changed the ones in my 300Tdi 110 to a set from a BMW era L322 and the transformation in comfort is astonishing. Despite being on HD springs all around it feels as if its not anymore, I'm now mostly running it empty so its been quite bouncy. There is a thread in the Tools & Fabrication section on it which I must update with newer pictures. The full set of seats only cost me £140. Won't help with the engine though! If I remember correctly the seat setup in the Disco would make the swap even easier than what I had to go through because you have a flat floor and more height so wouldn't need to do the dismantling I had to do. Food for thought anyway.

Get the 110 through its MoT Sell 7 puppies (wait... It is LR related - does anyone want one ;-) ) Get Nige to fit me some locking diffs (with puppy money) Maybe sort out dent in the boot lid of the 322.

Not really simply, if you see my last photo the loom comes around to the connector on the outside. It's all been cut to precise lengths to stop the wires snagging so swapping them over is the same amount of work because of having to adjust all the cables. Or extend the looms.

A small update (no piccies I'm afraid) as I'm just sitting down listening to 12h old puppies squeaking away. I ended up drilling out the pop rivets that held in the captive nuts in the old locations and drilled new ones. I also wired in the motors via a new fuse box in the battery compartment so now you can adjust them even if you need the doors open to do so. Now I've done some offroading in them and longer journeys they're a damn sight more comfortable despite being taller. Even to the point that I find the driving position more comfortable than my other car, a 2007 L322! One bonus was the wires can use some of the old holes to route the cable through to the battery box. When I get some time I'll probably design a new switchboard to relocate the seat controls to the centre. But with 9 puppies that might be a bit in the future.

Thanks for all the suggestions - I'll start chasing them up when I get a moment which will probably be the weekend... Might be a bit tricky getting the ovens / heating elements required up to Thruxton - or maybe they can just fly the helicopter into the workshop, it's pretty impressive where these guys can land it.

Why bother - one per wheel.

I was thinking last night, is the lift for clearance issues or do you actually need the articulation? If the former then, if not already fitted, what is suggested above about trimming bodywork combined with tall tyres, standard (or at least lower) springs and dampers and locking diffs would be a better option. I will admit I don't push my 110 anywhere near as far as some people on here but probably significantly more than most. I've never really had an issue with articulation and that's with an anti-social bar fitted. What I'm looking at now is front and rear lockers as that's usually where it comes unstuck, or stuck... This is with HD springs, standard dampers and 32" tyres. Yes I have bottomed out the diffs but in 90% of those situations a locker would have got me out as at least one wheel usually has some traction. That might sort the off road side of things and then you could fall back to a more standard setup. You have to admit that LR did a decent job of making the compromises for a capable on and off road vehicle.

The issue apparently is that there aren't any windscreens available from Eurocopter. I severely doubt we can use the existing windscreen as a forma because its now on standby 24/7. I also think Bond who own the airframe are likely to not allow it. The charity has spoken to Airbus and Eurocopter and it seems that there just aren't any windscreen available for use.

Realistically with a decent set of spring compressors and an impact hammer how quickly could you change over springs? I reckon if done frequently (and therefore everything comes undone) then it's probably no more than an hour or twos work at most on your own. Depends on how often you change things over? Or just get an L322 for towing, they are awesome machines for that. You have your toy for off roading and the Mrs has a comfortable ride when caravanning ?

I somehow guessed you might have some input Mike. If you could dig up the company that would be superb. Thanks for the suggestions on the vacuum forming. I'm tempted to give it a shot in the garden, although temperatures at the moment aren't helping matters! Was wondering if a steel frame with a clay forma and then a fire lit underneath might work... I've seen both vacuums and simply flexing it over, perhaps with the inverse of the mould. With regards to strips, the problem I see is visibility, it might look a bit naff with lines in it. It is life-size after all and thats been part of the problem, the sheer scale. Although not massive it does require a substantial oven...

Really? I'm pretty sure Si's 110 double cab / pickup is a Td5 and he definitely had one fitted when I went laning with him a while back. Can you keep the lift but fit some more progressive / stiffer springs? I've always found 90s to be a bit bouncy on the road which is why I prefer 110s. What about some quickly adjustable dampers? I think I've got a set of Konis fitted to the rear of mine and you can adjust those pretty easily, stiffen them up when towing. Might be worth dropping Si a PM to confirm, he did the design but if I remember correctly sold that business to Foundry4x4.

X Deflex? Anti roll bars would probably help quite a lot.

Should have mentioned, they've tried sourcing one . As it's a fairly new 'copter there don't appear to be any available. The chap in charge of this in HIOWAA says they're not sure if they get broken when removed. I'm kind of not involved other than I help out occasionally and because of who I work for I had a few avenues to explore. So I'm going on the basis they've tried the obvious, so its time to think outside the box.

I'd agree with Mike above, it's scary how much of a difference loading can make. I was towing my 110 down to Wales behind the L322 and it was downright scary to begin with once I'd got up to about 45/50mph. I resorted to pulling over in some services and moved the 110 forward an inch (literally an inch). I was pretty sure I'd got the loading correct to begin with but I had to load it on a slight incline so had to use my judgement. Boy did it change how it towed, everything was nice and stable after that whereas one point before I was pretty sure I was going to lose it, luckily the Range Rover's seats have remained their same colour but it's unnerving how quickly things can deteriorate when an artic blasts past you. Equally astonishing is how much of a difference a measly inch can make. So I'd have a play with the loading set-up, on the return journey I even dropped the Range Rover's tow bracket down another notch which improved things even more, even though it was perfectly flat before, the very slight difference in nose weight made all the difference. Given on the 110 I tend to have the tow bracket on its lowest setting for our small trailers I'd assume that caravans are setup for being towed behind cars as well as 4x4s. Therefore a vehicle with a 3" lift may well be too high if the tow ball hasn't been lowered accordingly.

Mods - feel free to remove if you feel this is inappropriate but hopefully I can tap into some of the knowledge available on this forum and I know that a few of the notable members here have links with the Hampshire & Isle of Wight Air Ambulance. The charity has a "pod" which is used for various events, as seen below, in fact I think I delivered it there for that particular event... They have a number of issues, one being it's their old helicopter and it's getting a bit tired from continuous use. It's also pretty heavy because it's the air-frame bolted to a normal trailer which means Cat E to tow, hence why I got involved. Anyway - they're having a new pod built up to mimic the new helicopter and hopefully keep it below the 750kg limit opening it up for easier shifting around the county. The company building it has been having trouble with the front windscreen so this is where you guys might be able to help out. Does anyone have any recommendations or experience in the areas of pending perspex, polycarbonate or something else that's suitable for a windscreen? It doesn't need to be airworthy, just strong enough to survive being towed around the county and on motorways, and obviously survive little kids! I have no ideas what budget they have available for this but I was asked by one of the girls in the office because I have a few (as it turns out not quite so) useful contacts. If it can be a Hampshire / nearby county based company then that might be preferable but I think at this point they'd like anything. I'm pretty sure the new helicopter is a Eurocopter based one like this, when I was last at the base it was just taking off on a night mission when I arrived but I saw the one they were trialling which looked similar but with red paint on. Thanks in advance for any leads...

Just enjoy life while you have it http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic49051.html

Well if I can sort out the seat issue... I'll bring it. On the drive down from Scottie Land I forgot that there was a coolbox behind my seat and tried to move it back. Blew a fuse which I've replaced but on Saturday when I took it out the motors are only turning one way. I've just got to find the time to have an investigation into it - haven't even checked the fuses yet. My sister went to take it this morning and with her key it moved the seat forwards but not down. Normally I can't get in it if she's been driving it but she can't even get in it now!

From what I've seen it's not uncommon to see an Autobiography specced lower than a Vogue SE. The Vogue SE was pretty much all options ticked whereas an Autobiography was just that - the buyer got to pick everything. Later on things got even more complicated...

I think the main issue with L322s has been their price point. But they're now getting to the point that people like those on this forum will start buying them and tinkering with them. When I bought mine there were a handful of people that I was aware of that off roaded them actively. Pete Haylands is by far and away the most extreme. If I had a garage or some shelter for it then I'd tinker some more but alas time and space is currently against me. They're now coming down in price so the more DIY rather than polishing crowd are getting their hands on them, consequently the knowledge is going up. There is also the benefit for a small fee you can gain access to all of JLRs manuals for it. I think it was something like £22 for 24h. Cue a bored Christmas and a little script and voila I had a copy of the official manuals, which reminds me I must remember where they ended up... I think theres a lot of potential in them, Pete's highlights some of that. With regards to issues being fixed in the facelift I think that's true, hence why I went for a TDV8. I was actually looking at Disco 4s having driven one and heard the horror stories about the D3. Then thought, what about FFs and voila at the time about 10k cheaper albeit for an older car. Given the mileage I was doing I decided it should be a diesel and again because of gearbox issues went for the TDV8 which seems to have cured most of them. There are still issues but most are well documented and you have to bear in mind only problems get reported and there were a LOT of TDV8s made. So the "common" turbo issues aren't actually that common in reality. They do prefer preventative maintenance though. The IID Tool is almost more important than a set of sockets and if you buy one you should definitely get one, or have a mate nearby with one (you can activate them on multiple vehicles for a small fee). If you want convincing if you ever head up Surrey way then give me a shout and you can have a jump in mine. I'm fact I'm heading west to Monmouth this Sunday coming, mind you haven't decided on 110 or FF yet... With the FF seats in the 110 it's not quite as quiet as the FF but as they're old BMW era seats they are fractionally more comfortable!

More spread over months rather than weeks but none-the-less it felt like they we never ending. Since then though it's been pretty bombproof (desperately searching for some wood in an electronics lab here...). It's helped that I don't take it on adventurous laning trips anymore, I think I'm probably one of the few people that's taken an L322 down Strata Florida and Soar y Mynedd. The single biggest problem with the lanes is they're typically Defender width and the Range Rover, well, isn't. So given the low profile tyres (I'm running pretty much the smallest wheels I can at 19") you're always scrubbing the sidewalls which combined with no-one off-roads them means that there are almost no reinforced sidewall tyres in a suitable size and therefore you usually end up puncturing at least one. My most spectacular was actually hearing one go bang over the radio with and with all windows shut. Still £3k in tyres in ~2 years isn't bad

Aside from the EGRs all the issues happened when a friend was using my 110 in Wales so the FF was my only vehicle. Luckily I only work 7 miles from home so cycling was an option but the alternator took something like 5 days working for a couple of hours in the evening. Having the 110 back means that whilst I tinker with one I can use the other. Cycling back from work with the alternator (where it was delivered) over the rear wheel was interesting to say the least. Plus I don't have a garage so everything's either done on the front lawn or side of the quiet street I live on - regardless of weather usually. I remember finishing the gearbox oil change with water running down my back from the thunderstorm I was finishing it in... Basically I miss the days of having a 20x8m "workshop" to use :-(

I use mine as a daily driver, particularly in the winter as the heated windscreens, mirrors, seats and steering wheel make it much more tempting than a frozen 110. I would say though, I found it quite trying running it as an only vehicle until I got the 110 back. Quite happy to fix things myself but when you rely on it as your only vehicle it is a bit of a pain. Currently coming up to 153k miles.

I agree if it's going to be a permanent install then compressor is almost certainly the way forward, particularly in James' situation where he doesn't have neighbours. The farm is OK but at home in Surrey I think the neighbours would be a little annoyed if I had a compressor running in the garden shed... If I had the option then I'd have a fixed compressor (I have a little one but not plumbed in yet) but given my situations I'd still stick with the battery ones because even if I'm not on the farm I do chuck them in when on trip around the country / Europe and they've proven useful so far. Cables / hoses are just annoying when I can grab it and go straight to work. We only had a cheapo Machine Mart impact hammer but inevitably the only time it came out was when I failed to crack them off with a breaker bar. This was even with new V-Twin 200l compressor that we replaced the old 50l one with and even then it usually struggled if it did succeed at all. Re: tyre fitters - I can see if you have more people using them then battery operated tools become quite expensive as you don't just have to buy the tool but a new set of batteries for the new guy. Whereas with a compressor you only really need the tool and perhaps a bit more pipework. I had heard things about people switching away from Milwaukee but they tended to be the brushed motors whereas the brush-less ones appear to be a bit more robust. We had the recommendation from some rally friends and given the abuse they give them then they should stand up to what we need them for...